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Poor idle, flashing CEL, P0021


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Guys, this is going to get long winded so let me apologize in advance. I would prefer to have too much info than not enough, so bear with me.

 

Quick bits:

  • 2006 GT 5MT
  • Cobb stage 2 for the last 35k, I've owned it for 42k
  • Only 93oct used
  • 119,200 miles
  • Plugs and compression test done ~8k ago, 125-125-130-125

 

Problem:

Around noon yesterday, I was driving home from brunch when my car started surging or bucking a bit while cruising at 40mph. I looked down after maybe 10 seconds of this, saw *only* the flashing CEL for a few seconds, and then it went away. I continued for another mile or so until I got home. At stop lights, the car idled poorly, shaking, etc after the light went away. After I got home, I shut the car off, pulled out my AP, and tried to pull codes. None. I restarted the car with it plugged in and it still idled poorly, sounded bad but not spun bearing bad, so I shut it off. While it was on, no codes on the AP, no flashing lights, and everything knock or roughness related was zero on the AP. DAM was still 1.0. :spin:

 

This morning, I pulled it into the driveway and checked:

  1. Oil - Embarrassingly low. Added a bit more than half quart and it was in the middle of the range.
  2. Blue T vacuum lines
  3. EBCS vacuum lines
  4. Other visible vacuum lines
  5. Cylinder 3 coil pack (connector is zip tied because it snapped when I did a compression test 10k ago)
  6. BPV return on turbo inlet (sketchy plumbing with Perrin inlet)
  7. While it was idling, my long term fuel trims were 0.8% which I'm told is fine, and then A-D were 3.3, 0.8, -3.3, and -3.5, which I'm told were also fine.

 

Everything checked out A+ except the oil level, which immediately made me think the OCVs didn't like the low oil level, similar to how my friend's Civic disables VTAKAKAKAAKKKK when he's 3 quarts low. :lol::rolleyes:

 

Thinking I'd found the culprit, I attempted to take it out and run some errands a couple miles from home. I was most of the way to the first stop when I got the solid CEL with flashing cruise, and the poor idle and shaking came back. I scrambled to hook up my AP before the light turned green and that's when I got the P0021. I limped it to my errand stop, parked, saved an ECU memory snapshot to the AP, and then reset the ECU. Mistake.

 

I did my stuff, came out, and let the car sit in the on position without starting it for a good 30 seconds for its calibration thing. I tried starting it and it immediately stalled. Rinse repeat over a dozen times. I could get it to "idle" by giving it a bit of gas but as soon as I let go, it would fall on its face and stall again.

 

I limped it home with a friend following me by using my right foot to both brake and hold the "idle" revs at roughly 1000. I got home and it would barely idle at 750-800 on its own. Still sounds awful. Extremely rich exhaust fumes.

 

 

Next actions?

I'm starting to think I have a dying or dirty OCV on the driver's side which was Chris GTO TT's suggestion. Any other thoughts?

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A flashing CEL is usually a sign of ignition trouble. The test in the ECU for the flashing CEL is the amount of time between ignition signals for successive cylinders. It tests for too great a variation between them and if a certain number of these large variations occur within a certain time, it will flash the CEL. It should also throw a P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303 or P0304 indicating random misfire for P0300 or Cylinder X for P030X if it is one cylinder only. If your ignition is bad, you will get the smell of fuel (or rich fumes from raw fuel being catalyzed) as you have mentioned.

 

The ignition can fail open or short and it is not clear whether the ECU actually determines whether there is an ignition problem or which one it is or just reads the time between ignition sensor pulses. Maybe someone who has reverse-engineered the ECU can chime in on this.

 

Check you sensors for ignition and fuel injection - they can go wrong and not leave a CEL.

 

The P0021 is a separate issue - change your oil and filter and it may go away.

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I don't have any P030x codes... hell, the CEL has flashed and been solid several times and the only code I got, once, was the P0021.

 

Changing oil and filter is the cheapest and easiest by far and honestly, needs done. I could try it first but I have a feeling it's only delaying buying new OCVs by a day or two. I'm heading on vacation Thursday and with the holiday and weekend, no OCVs for me so it looks like I'm getting a ride to work Monday and probably Tuesday. Sucks.

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Did you pull the OCV out and use a small flat head screwdriver to test the piston with in the housing? If the piston is sticking or stuck then you know it's a bad OCB. The piston should spring back as soon as you let go. It's pretty staight forward.
My wife's balls are delicious.
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Haven't checked that yet... out of daylight and time. Need to get ready for vacation tomorrow.

 

I did however go out to the garage and finger that metal in my oil pan. There's no grit to it, surprisingly, if I rub it between my finger and thumb. I thought it'd feed like sand. It also disappeared as soon as I touched it so now I'm thinking it's not metal and instead, water/oil or fuel/oil?

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That code is pointing to the OCV, check that first before looks at other things. I've had this code twice and each time it was a stuck OCV. You'll be wasting your time looking at other things for now.
My wife's balls are delicious.
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That code is pointing to the OCV, check that first before looks at other things. I've had this code twice and each time it was a stuck OCV. You'll be wasting your time looking at other things for now.

 

IMO the OCV code is probably a secondary symptom... whatever got into the oil likely clogged up the OCVs too, which operate based on oil pressure and flow. Could be a headgasket failure, too.

LW's spec. B / YT / IG
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IMO the OCV code is probably a secondary symptom... whatever got into the oil likely clogged up the OCVs too, which operate based on oil pressure and flow. Could be a headgasket failure, too.

 

That maybe true with the P0011, but the P0021 runs off a different oil feed line to the OCV, which in most cases is the OCV. That's why you check the source first, then work backwards.

My wife's balls are delicious.
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  • 3 weeks later...

I changed the oil and then went on vacation before starting it up.

 

I started it up after vacation and it idled and sounded normally. I ended up replacing the driver's side OCV anyway because that's the side the P0021 code is for.

 

I have about 600 miles on the new OCV and it's been smooth sailing.

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