novaprime Posted February 10, 2019 Share Posted February 10, 2019 Measure the ground to the bottom of the side trim just in front of and behind each wheel arch. Using that method I'm sagging a bit, but just on the driver rear corner. Not entirely sure why yet. Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ammcinnis Posted February 10, 2019 Share Posted February 10, 2019 (edited) Does anyone have the Subaru specs for the rear ride height? Is it measured wheel arch to hub center? Wheel arch height is specified in the Factory Service Manual, and it is referenced to the axle center rather than height above ground, since the latter would change with tire size, inflation pressure, and wear. For the 2015 Legacy, wheel arch heights are specified as follows: Front = 397 mm (15.63 in) +12/-24 mm (+0.47/-0.94 in)Rear = 381 mm (15.00 in) +12/-24 mm (+0.47/-0.94 in) That's about +3%/-6% tolerance, which seems reasonable. Edited February 10, 2019 by ammcinnis "If you don't know where you're going, any road will take you there." ~ The Cheshire Cat (Alice in Wonderland) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ovcoursitsilver Posted February 10, 2019 Share Posted February 10, 2019 For the 2015 Legacy, wheel arch heights are specified as follows: Front = 397 mm (15.63 inches)Rear = 381 mm (15.00 inches) Just measured mine at 14 7/8” (14.88”) in the back and 15 5/8” (15.63”) in the front. Those measurements might be plus or minus 1/8” (0.125”) so it’s probably within spec. If the rear has sagged, it’s not by a lot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScoobaruSpud Posted March 8, 2019 Share Posted March 8, 2019 (edited) Anyone with pics or experienced recommendations on appropriate size spacers? I know the different wheel arcs inherently add to the saggy butt look but really, it does have a saggy butt with very little loading at all. Also, when lightly loaded (a carry on bag and a 40-pound pelican case) I get folks flashing brights at me because the sag obviously lifts my low beams... I do like a subtly raked look. I put overload springs from Rallitek on my 01 OBW, lifting the front 1/2" and the back 1". It looks awesome! Handles better, doesn't squat on loaded camping trips... I should have done that mod to the OBW years ago! So far I haven't seen any spring mods spelled out very clearly for an 18 3.6R Legacy... but I'm thinking 1/2" spacers in the back would be a good start. Probably give Subtle Solutions a call today. [edit: as expected, called SS, fitment is the same for all 6th gens, folks just haven't updated their catalogs] If I go this route I'll share before/after pics. Edited March 8, 2019 by ScoobaruSpud grammar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScoobaruSpud Posted March 18, 2019 Share Posted March 18, 2019 (edited) Installed the 1" Subtle Solutions spacers today. A piece of cake and not as hard as the FSM made it seem (minimal interior panel removal). The 1" spacers give the car a very subtle rake, which I like - preferred to the saggy butt. I was shooting for equalizing the front and rear wheel arches and I got a little bit more than that. Remember, the spacer height on the strut does not equal the lift at the wheel 1:1 because of suspension articulation. I got a little more than I was shooting for. I'd recommend a 3/4" spacer if you are shooting for equalizing the wheel arches (which technically would give you a rake but probably unnoticeable). Subtle Solutions was out of stock on those at the time I ordered. I'd also recommend the aluminum spacers. They were a breeze to install. Everything bolted tight, no washers, no sloppiness. Easy as 1-2-3. The lower control arm removal and replacement was a breeze. This is really a very easy job and - first time - took me all of a couple hours from first tool out to last tool away. Recommended: Subtle Solutions 1" aluminum spacers to fix the saggy butt. Off to get the wheel alignment tomorrow, just because. Edited March 18, 2019 by ScoobaruSpud Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimle1301 Posted March 18, 2019 Share Posted March 18, 2019 Installed the 1" Subtle Solutions spacers today. A piece of cake and not as hard as the FSM made it seem (minimal interior panel removal). The 1" spacers give the car a very subtle rake, which I like - preferred to the saggy butt. I was shooting for equalizing the front and rear wheel arches and I got a little bit more than that. Remember, the spacer height on the strut does not equal the lift at the wheel 1:1 because of suspension articulation. I got a little more than I was shooting for. I'd recommend a 3/4" spacer if you are shooting for equalizing the wheel arches (which technically would give you a rake but probably unnoticeable). Subtle Solutions was out of stock on those at the time I ordered. I'd also recommend the aluminum spacers. They were a breeze to install. Everything bolted tight, no washers, no sloppiness. Easy as 1-2-3. The lower control arm removal and replacement was a breeze. This is really a very easy job and - first time - took me all of a couple hours from first tool out to last tool away. Recommended: Subtle Solutions 1" aluminum spacers to fix the saggy butt. Off to get the wheel alignment tomorrow, just because. Did you have to change the studs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScoobaruSpud Posted March 18, 2019 Share Posted March 18, 2019 (edited) Did you have to change the studs? Yes, but it was easy. Just used a c-clamp to press them out. A box end wrench a little bigger than the stud, the nut to push against, and they popped right out pretty easy. The Subtle Solutions kit includes bolts - they fit snug in the old stud holes so I don't expect any slopping around, and the bolts thread into and through the spacers (sucking them tight against the strut mount plate). I attached some photos that better shows this. Ended up with the rear wheel arch about 1" higher that the front wheel arch. Factory arch height in the back was about 1/2" lower than front arch. Edited March 18, 2019 by ScoobaruSpud Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
novaprime Posted March 18, 2019 Share Posted March 18, 2019 How much interior removal was required? That's my biggest hangup. Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScoobaruSpud Posted March 18, 2019 Share Posted March 18, 2019 How much interior removal was required? That's my biggest hangup. Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk The FSM section on removing interior panels which we’re referred to by the FSM on this job is unnecessary. All you need to do is essentially remove the cargo liner and spare tire cover. Without poppimg any plastic anchors you can lift the carpet a little to access the the two 14mm nuts anchoring the strut towers. I could even reach both the strut tower nuts and the actual strut body in the wheel well at the same time which made removal amd installation an easy one person job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScoobaruSpud Posted March 18, 2019 Share Posted March 18, 2019 How much interior removal was required? That's my biggest hangup. Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk The FSM section on removing interior panels which we’re referred to by the FSM on this job is unnecessary. All you need to do is essentially remove the cargo liner and spare tire cover. Without poppimg any plastic anchors you can lift the carpet a little to access the the two 14mm nuts anchoring the strut towers. I could even reach both the strut tower nuts and the actual strut body in the wheel well at the same time which made removal amd installation an easy one person job. The pic I posted is from the hatch looking toward the driver rear strut which has been removed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
novaprime Posted March 18, 2019 Share Posted March 18, 2019 Interesting. The dealership was saying that the rear seats needed to be removed. I'm excited to hear that this is not the case Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PATS4LIFE Posted March 18, 2019 Share Posted March 18, 2019 Installed the 1" Subtle Solutions spacers today. A piece of cake and not as hard as the FSM made it seem (minimal interior panel removal). The 1" spacers give the car a very subtle rake, which I like - preferred to the saggy butt. I was shooting for equalizing the front and rear wheel arches and I got a little bit more than that. Remember, the spacer height on the strut does not equal the lift at the wheel 1:1 because of suspension articulation. I got a little more than I was shooting for. I'd recommend a 3/4" spacer if you are shooting for equalizing the wheel arches (which technically would give you a rake but probably unnoticeable). Subtle Solutions was out of stock on those at the time I ordered. I'd also recommend the aluminum spacers. They were a breeze to install. Everything bolted tight, no washers, no sloppiness. Easy as 1-2-3. The lower control arm removal and replacement was a breeze. This is really a very easy job and - first time - took me all of a couple hours from first tool out to last tool away. Recommended: Subtle Solutions 1" aluminum spacers to fix the saggy butt. Off to get the wheel alignment tomorrow, just because. Just curious why do u recommend aluminum over HDPE? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waldguy Posted March 18, 2019 Share Posted March 18, 2019 (edited) Pretty cool. If you open Pics 1 and 2 and toggle back and forth, the difference is obvious. I like it. In addition, your time on the job is evidenced by the shadow angle under the car. Impressive. Compare that to my photoshopped version (OK, it's a little overdone - Outback-ish). Edited March 18, 2019 by waldguy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScoobaruSpud Posted March 18, 2019 Share Posted March 18, 2019 (edited) Just curious why do u recommend aluminum over HDPE? I'm told the HDPE spacers are just smooth holes, and they require washers, etc - whereas the aluminum ones are threaded. So when you're fishing everything back into place, I'd guess the aluminum ones are a little easier to deal with - no chance of things coming off their studs or bolts. The aluminum spacer threads down onto the bolt (which replaces the stud) like a big one-inch nut. Edited March 18, 2019 by ScoobaruSpud Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScoobaruSpud Posted March 18, 2019 Share Posted March 18, 2019 Interesting. The dealership was saying that the rear seats needed to be removed. I'm excited to hear that this is not the case Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk Nope. Just laid them down. No tools required to get where you need to go - just the 14mm wrench to loosen the two nuts per strut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kero Posted March 23, 2019 Share Posted March 23, 2019 my wifes legacy has a saggy ass lol as well with about 35K miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrD123 Posted March 23, 2019 Share Posted March 23, 2019 I'm told the HDPE spacers are just smooth holes, and they require washers, etcIt depends on where you get them, and how large of an offset it is. If you go to Anderson Design and Fabrication, they use HDPE and there are threaded inserts in them that accompany the longer studs. (https://andersondesign-fab.com/) The traditional "saggy butt" spacer they sell is 3/8" and is just plates with holes, but the thicker ones (1" and 1.5") do. In my opinion, the 1" is too much - looking at the images, the rear wheel arch is now higher than the front, when it's supposed to be a half inch or so lower, and the car is very visible raked. That's likely going to mess with weight distribution and braking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScoobaruSpud Posted March 23, 2019 Share Posted March 23, 2019 (edited) The traditional "saggy butt" spacer they sell is 3/8" and is just plates with holes, but the thicker ones (1" and 1.5") do. In my opinion, the 1" is too much - looking at the images, the rear wheel arch is now higher than the front, when it's supposed to be a half inch or so lower, and the car is very visible raked. That's likely going to mess with weight distribution and braking. Yeah, depends on the look you like. An empty car with the OE 15mm saggy butt look is not my thing. And soon as I put a couple of suitcases in the back its even worse. Now it tends to look level when loaded for the highway, and subtly raked when just me in the car. In hindsight I probably would have gone with the 3/4" if they had them in stock for an equal wheel arch look, but I'm not disappointed with the look the 1" provides. To most people it looks level anyway (just ask my girlfriend lol). For a highway cruiser and gentle driving I can't discern any difference in handling. If you pushed it hard the negative characteristics may show - couldn't say. Also, I'm not disappointed with the headlight aim (untouched) as I was getting flashed by oncoming traffic anytime I had a suitcase in back before... The only other mod I did was the beefier rear sway bar. I do a LOT of highway driving (15K on this car since June 18) and I've loved every single mile of it. Loved it. And the 3.6R gets really decent mileage on the highway if you don't drive aggressively. Edited March 23, 2019 by ScoobaruSpud Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justin.gaudreau Posted April 11, 2019 Share Posted April 11, 2019 I had the saggy arse with mine, then I lowered it with H&R springs, now it sits level on all 4 corners and I haven’t had any rubbing issues with my rallyarmour mudflaps Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PATS4LIFE Posted April 15, 2019 Share Posted April 15, 2019 I had the saggy arse with mine, then I lowered it with H&R springs, now it sits level on all 4 corners and I haven’t had any rubbing issues with my rallyarmour mudflaps Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Hmmm that’s weird I’m also sitting on H&R springs but on rear my tires are almost under the fenders(stock 17’s/tires) but on yours looks like you have a gap between tires and fender. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justin.gaudreau Posted April 19, 2019 Share Posted April 19, 2019 Hmmm that’s weird I’m also sitting on H&R springs but on rear my tires are almost under the fenders(stock 17’s/tires) but on yours looks like you have a gap between tires and fender. I can fit 2 fingers snug between the rear tires and the fender with my summer tires, my winters are a bit taller so they look like they sit a lot more snug Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
novaprime Posted July 6, 2019 Share Posted July 6, 2019 @ScoobaruSpud Thanks for the detailed post. I just got done installing the 1" kit. Looks much better now. Sent from my LM-G710 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Nick Posted July 7, 2019 Share Posted July 7, 2019 I think they look a lot better leveled as opposed to the saggy rear end Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubieN8 Posted July 7, 2019 Share Posted July 7, 2019 2” front and 2 3/8” rear. Perfect now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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