RustyRuu Posted October 14, 2015 Share Posted October 14, 2015 can the top bearing in the connecting rod be replaced? the top that connects to the wrist pin and piston or do you need to by new rods? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 15, 2015 Share Posted October 15, 2015 Yes it can be replaced. The problem is, getting the part. Really, why go that far and just replace that one part ? Unless your planning on dumping the car soon after. IMO your only asking for more issues soon after. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyRuu Posted October 16, 2015 Author Share Posted October 16, 2015 i am doing all the bearings, polishing my crank, resealing everything, piston rings, new pistons my also be a possibility, mostly i am thinking of just reusing the rods and pistons if i can. all the other bearings are easy to figure out but those ones seem difficult. difficult as in not damaging the rod getting the old bearing out as well as not damaging the new bearing while aligning it properly getting it in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 18, 2015 Share Posted October 18, 2015 You can reuse your rods, I would replace the pistons. If your HP goals are below 350, stock pistons will be fine. Have the machine shop replace the top bearing in the rods, I there there is either heat needed or a press. Have the block machine work don't by a great machine shop. Ask them for guidance if you have any doubts about what your doing. It's been many years (1975) since I put bearings and rings in but its pretty easy to do. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyRuu Posted October 18, 2015 Author Share Posted October 18, 2015 thats my problem is finding a good machine shop. got my heads machined and valve lash set got my quote for 250. which was great price ended up being almost 600 bucks. a couple of subaru shops use this place in town and swear by them but everytime i go there its a little sketchy. like they told me its ok to use just a ruler or a right angle as long as its new to check surface warpage like on the deck and heads. im not a professional but i know that's not right. they use straight edges but said that would work. i'm just saying they would have a field day and i would end up in the hole instead of just buying a use block. but i want new internals like bearings and a polished crank, and to know it doesnt just look like the old one i just took out. my hp goals are stock 165 or less. just want something to drive when i need to get out of town or it snows i bike every other time. thank you Byron for your imput it is always helpful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 19, 2015 Share Posted October 19, 2015 A good straight edge will work. Hold on the surface and take a .001 feeler gauge and try and push it under the edge. Either way, the deck should be skim cut by a good machine shop the make sure its perfect. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyRuu Posted October 19, 2015 Author Share Posted October 19, 2015 i know how it works was just saying, a machinist straight edge is straight and a ruler or right angle is not. i've been using a piece of glass to check for strightness and that seems to be working well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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