xtea Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 Right now I am thinking about lowering my outback. I will probably wait till spring to do it though. I am thinking either going bc br outback specific coilovers with 4k/6k spring rates and dropping it to the lowest setting for summer then up for winter or saying screw it and going lgt with koni's and swifts. I'd like to not have to buy all other stuff except maybe legacy bump stops. In the meantime I'd like to tighten up the handling in otherways if I can. Are there similar mods to the window weld in the rear diff bushings that I can consider? Any other bushings I should look at replacing? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted October 15, 2015 Share Posted October 15, 2015 Rear sway bar. It's not cheap (once you get it and the reinforcement brackets) but it is so worth it. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtea Posted October 15, 2015 Author Share Posted October 15, 2015 I have the rearsway bar, not re-enforcement brackets. My backend has been swqueky creaky lately, is that from the lack of re enforcement brackets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted October 15, 2015 Share Posted October 15, 2015 I have the rearsway bar, not re-enforcement brackets. My backend has been swqueky creaky lately, is that from the lack of re enforcement brackets. probably shot endlinks. I have a whiteline rsb+stock endlinkc + Avo brackets. And I never hear anything from it. I have added a bunch of bushings to the car - my favorite are the GroupN motor / transmission mounts. None of this really needs to be done before you lower a car though...basically you just need to lower it to lower it... My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xtea Posted October 15, 2015 Author Share Posted October 15, 2015 probably shot endlinks. I have a whiteline rsb+stock endlinkc + Avo brackets. And I never hear anything from it. I have added a bunch of bushings to the car - my favorite are the GroupN motor / transmission mounts. None of this really needs to be done before you lower a car though...basically you just need to lower it to lower it... Weird, I put moog's on last year when I did the RSB. I think my springs might be shot. I just passed up a great price on Coilovers because I suspected I would hate the harshness of them. So you like the Group N's, I think that might be the next mod after the GS intake goes in. I'll probably wait till spring to lower it. I really want the adjustability of coilovers so I can raise and lower the car but I don't want my fillings to come out as a result. Is it a lot of trouble to keep my current set up for winter and then every spring switch back to koni/swifts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TiagoSantos Posted October 16, 2015 Share Posted October 16, 2015 I'm just gonna hijack this thread slightly with a very related question. With lowering our outbacks as much as 2 or 3 inches, are there any issues with driveshaft or axle alignment, steering shaft length, etc? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heffernan Posted October 16, 2015 Share Posted October 16, 2015 I'm just gonna hijack this thread slightly with a very related question. With lowering our outbacks as much as 2 or 3 inches, are there any issues with driveshaft or axle alignment, steering shaft length, etc? Not really. I find you get more issues with that stuff when you lift these cars rather then lower them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kelvrick Posted October 17, 2015 Share Posted October 17, 2015 I'm just gonna hijack this thread slightly with a very related question. With lowering our outbacks as much as 2 or 3 inches, are there any issues with driveshaft or axle alignment, steering shaft length, etc? You'll be fine if you stay away from the body spacers unless you go and do all of them to keep everything lined up. With just plain lowering with struts/springs, you'll mainly have issues with suspension geometry and alignment, which can mostly be fixed by some adjustable bushings or dealing with additional tire wear. The lower you go, the more adjustment you'll need to get things back where you want it. You can be basic and just shocks/struts/springs and the advisable lgt rear bump stop (or cut down outback bump stop). Then you can go a little further with the LGT rear control arm along for additional travel along with some adjustable bushings like say some whiteline control arm bushings to adjust the camber. The trailing arms are the same, but the trailing arm bracket for the LGT will help you move that rear wheel away from where it gets pulled when you lower it. My Outback Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebourne Posted October 17, 2015 Share Posted October 17, 2015 If you lower on springs and shocks, you'll need Legacy rear upper control arms and the Legacy bump stops. Then a way to adjust rear camber (White line arms, Megan arms, Whiteline bushings). There's replacement front camber bolts for not much money if you need to dial in aggressive camber. Rear toe was no problem to bring back inline on my car. My setup is simple: Koni's Legacy Tein H-Techs Whiteline KCA399 camber adjusting rear upper bushings LGT rear upper control arms LGT rear bump stops aka "helpers" 3/8" saggy spacers in rear (Stock front camber bolts) stock sway bars If you lower on coil overs, most have internal bump stops, so you shouldn't need Legacy UCAs or helpers. Just remove the Outback bump stop "helpers" and let the internal coil over bump stop do it's job. Note: My alignment guy hated the Whiteline camber bushings, because he had to measure, remove wheel, adjust, reinstall wheel, and measure again to line them up. The replacement camber/toe arms are more expensive, but much easier to install and adjust. I love the ride and handling. With the Koni's tweaked to my liking, I don't think upgraded sway bars are necessary. pic thread build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
housemusic1 Posted October 19, 2015 Share Posted October 19, 2015 If you lower on springs and shocks, you'll need Legacy rear upper control arms and the Legacy bump stops. Then a way to adjust rear camber (White line arms, Megan arms, Whiteline bushings). There's replacement front camber bolts for not much money if you need to dial in aggressive camber. Rear toe was no problem to bring back inline on my car. My setup is simple: Koni's Legacy Tein H-Techs Whiteline KCA399 camber adjusting rear upper bushings LGT rear upper control arms LGT rear bump stops aka "helpers" 3/8" saggy spacers in rear (Stock front camber bolt stock sway bars If you lower on coil overs, most have internal bump stops, so you shouldn't need Legacy UCAs or helpers. Just remove the Outback bump stop "helpers" and let the internal coil over bump stop do it's job. Note: My alignment guy hated the Whiteline camber bushings, because he had to measure, remove wheel, adjust, reinstall wheel, and measure again to line them up. The replacement camber/toe arms are more expensive, but much easier to install and adjust. I love the ride and handling. With the Koni's tweaked to my liking, I don't think upgraded sway bars are necessary. I'm lowered on LGT wagon suspension. I want to go a little lower, and was thinking about H Techs. Would you suggest that I go with Konis, or can I stay with LGT struts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebourne Posted October 19, 2015 Share Posted October 19, 2015 * I've never had the H-tech's on stock LGT shocks and struts. ** It's been about ten years since I've been on stock LGT struts, when I had my 05 sedan. Having said that, the springs might be okay on fresh stock, but not great. But my deep thought is that after doing the conversion process on a set of Koni's you have a hot commodity. Busy or lazy people like me would take them off your hands in a heart beat. So it's almost a no lose situation except for some time. Try em. If you don't like em, there's enough peeps, (like me again) singing their praises that you'll sell them easily for a reasonable dollar. I bought mine with 20k on them, and they're better than the shocks on any off the new cars we've had in the last four years or so. Some of the coilovers are about ready for a rebuild at 20k from what I read! pic thread build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
housemusic1 Posted October 19, 2015 Share Posted October 19, 2015 * I've never had the H-tech's on stock LGT shocks and struts. ** It's been about ten years since I've been on stock LGT struts, when I had my 05 sedan. Having said that, the springs might be okay on fresh stock, but not great. But my deep thought is that after doing the conversion process on a set of Koni's you have a hot commodity. Busy or lazy people like me would take them off your hands in a heart beat. So it's almost a no lose situation except for some time. Try em. If you don't like em, there's enough peeps, (like me again) singing their praises that you'll sell them easily for a reasonable dollar. I bought mine with 20k on them, and they're better than the shocks on any off the new cars we've had in the last four years or so. Some of the coilovers are about ready for a rebuild at 20k from what I read! Would you suggest I go with LGT upper control arms if I do go lower? I'm already planning on adding the Megan adjustable rear bits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted October 19, 2015 Share Posted October 19, 2015 Would you suggest I go with LGT upper control arms if I do go lower? I'm already planning on adding the Megan adjustable rear bits. yes, i was bottoming out with spacers and gear in the trunk. if you have legacy bumpstops and legacy ucas you have an extra 2 inches to work with. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebourne Posted October 19, 2015 Share Posted October 19, 2015 yes, i was bottoming out with spacers and gear in the trunk. if you have legacy bumpstops and legacy ucas you have an extra 2 inches to work with. And that two inches is well inboard, so it's effectively much more than that. The control arm switch yields more travel than the helper swap. But the helper is cheaper and easier to swap (big channel lock pliers = done). I'd recommend the LGT control arm first, then the LGT helper if you need it. Some cut the bumpstop, but unless you're some kind of freak hard rubber artisan, and reshape the OBXT bumpstop, just cutting it will create a harsh and brutal, instead of cushioned and gradual, transition in the the stopper. And as OB2.5XT subtly pointed out: since the bump stop is external, not inside the shock body assembly, adding spacers on top of the shock is not just cosmetic, it does increase travel between the control arm and stopper. (Asterisk: assuming no spring binding or shock bottoming, which is unlikely) pic thread build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
housemusic1 Posted October 19, 2015 Share Posted October 19, 2015 I have 1" spacers in the rear, and LGT bump stops. Planning on Koni/H-Tech, to get me that extra drop vs the LGT height that im at right now. With that being said, any idea what the Legacy UCA part# is? I'm going to start sourcing parts over the winter, so I can go lower in the spring. My rear is really bouncy, so i'm going to need to address the suspension in the spring. Rear sways, and links are already in the plan as well. Thanks for the help guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebourne Posted October 19, 2015 Share Posted October 19, 2015 Legacy Bump Stops 20501AE00A Legacy rear arm 20250AE041 $45 for the arm from these guys: http://sspparts.com/buy-used/2008-Subaru-Legacy-Control-UPPER-CNTRL-ARM-Rear-driver-P-20250AE041/14771-1 the Koni's will solve the bounciness. that's a damper thing. pic thread build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
housemusic1 Posted October 19, 2015 Share Posted October 19, 2015 Awesome, how about the part# for the passenger rear arm? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebourne Posted October 19, 2015 Share Posted October 19, 2015 Awesome, how about the part# for the passenger rear arm? oh, duh... only had the left side in my notes. http://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru__/LATERAL-LINK-ASSEMBLY-REAR-UPR-RIGHT/49500888/20250AE031.html LATERAL LINK ASSEMBLY-REAR UPR RIGHT . Part Number: 20250AE031 ; 20250AE030; 20250AE03A; 20250AE09A; 20250AG14A pic thread build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miatabear Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 Awesome, how about the part# for the passenger rear arm? It may be cheaper to buy it off someone parting out their legacy gt on the forums. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebourne Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 Of course, keep it in the family. I bought mine off a fellow LGT user, with the Whiteline camber bushings installed. pic thread build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miatabear Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 Same Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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