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98 OBW runs rough, no power, cam sensor codes...


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backstory: The car ran perfect for months with nothing but the occaisonal cyl3 & cyl4 misfire codes. Some of you may remember trying to coach me through troubleshooting them many moons ago, but I had given up. Last night I went to a friends house to help paint his rims and barbecue. Car ran fine when I parked it. Aboit five hours later when I started the car to leave, it sounded like it was only firing on two cylinders. My car is loud as hell so I got out of there to a parking lot with lots of lights. I ended up driving home at 20 mph trying not to put load on the engine at all.

The car never died, but it did come close a few times. The gas smells rich as hell. At this point ive basically got it narrowed down to ingition timing. Today I drove to work (Advance Auto) and the codes were P0340 and P0341. So I replaced the Cam sensor. That didnt work. I tried replacing the crank sensor. Also didnt work. What tripped me out is that there were no misfire codes...

 

TL;DR - Car runs like crap, missing and sputtering under any kind of load. Ive tried replacing the cam sensor and crank sensor. Also within the last 30k miles Ive done the ignition coil, plugs and wires, fuel filter, air filter, fuel pump (maybe like 40k ago actually), MAF, MAP, cleaned the TB and IACV, and replaced most of the large PCV and MAP vacuum lines. Headgaskets, water pump, and timing belt were done less than 50k ago. Most of this stuff was replaced trying to chase down the misfire codes I was having before.

 

I have searched and searched and couldnt find anything with any info on this. Any kind of links relevant to this issue are appreciated.

Vehicle Info: 98 Legacy Outback, EJ25D, 5mt swap... Yeah thats about it.

 

Thanks for your time guys.

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I would start with checking for bad wires at the sensor.

Check for continuity from the harness side to the sensor.

Don't know of any resistance values to look for.

(Computer won't let me upload sensor elec. diagram)

It's the topmost block ,white wires.

 

O.

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Oh god you guys are telling me it could be anywhere? I recently hooked up a secondary battery so ill try unhooking it?... That shouldnt be an issue though. And ive felt around for hot wires and nothing seems out of place. What are the chances that the ECM failed? Is there a way to test it?
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Does anyone know where exactly in the FSM linked in this forum I can find the circuit diagram for this? I searched the thing for a solid hour at work today before I got yelled at lol. Im planning on going to town with a multimeter on Monday but it does me no good if I dont have the diagrams. Ill keep looking but that manual is kinda confusing in digital form. Thanks for the help guys.
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In sticky's of 2nd Gen. Last one.

 

O.

 

I meant where in that manual can i find the diagram for this circuit specifically, but after reading most of the diagram i found it lol. Thanks guys. Ill get on this in about 12 hours and let you know what I come up with.

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I'd actually do two things:

1. Check the coil/ignition for the cylinders 3&4. I had problems on the 1st gen I had where the ignition module had taken in water and it died from that. I actually was able to repair it.

2. Check that the cam belt haven't "jumped".

 

I think (not sure though) that the cylinders 3&4 shares ignition coil.

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So today I pulled into work (I had to drive it. My only car...) and it died as I was backing into my spot. I got there early to do some diagnosis. I now have no spark from either side of either coil. I grabbed a brand new coil off the shelf at work and tested resistance against my current coil and they are literally identical. The car doesnt even try to start anymore. Just cranks for days... The kicker is, the code reader at work wont connect to it. The OBD2 port had no power going to it. Did I fry my ECM? If so how do I check and how the eff does that even happen? Anyone have a spare I can buy just to try it?

 

In the mean time Im in the process of pulling the timing cover. So far I had time to pull the driver side enough to see the belt. It looks fine, but Ill have to pull it out and hit TDC to see the marks.

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Tested the ignition circuit and confirmed that the ignitor is not getting signal from the ECU. No different with another ECU plugged in from a 99 outback limited (which I know works because it ran the car with a few ghost codes. Didnt know the auto ecu would work with a manual tranny back when I did it). Are there any videos on testing the cam sensor circuit or am I gonna have to go off of the fsm wiring diagram?

 

Edit: I just noticed that the check engine light is off in the key on position. Should it be on? Or am I just too used to having check engine lights? Haha

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Really dove into it today. I found out that my O2 wires for the downstream sensor had fried and popped a main fuse. With those not shorting anymore, my buddy and I pulled the timing cover. Sure enough, the damn timing belt jumped two teeth. We wrestled trying to re time the motor and see if that was the issue, but the damn car wouldn't give it up. It's a real bitch to time the drivers side. We ended up yanking the intake cam gear on the drivers side because of a broken tooth. Hopefully I find one of these things in a scrapyard tomorrow...
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