HIMAN1998 Posted September 28, 2015 Share Posted September 28, 2015 I've done a lot of things to try and fix my torque bind, from replacing trans fluid to driving in circles and all of that stuff. I've come to a pretty solid conclusion that the center diff is completely shot. I'm driving it in FWD currently until I can replace the part. Anyone here know the part number/can point me towards where to buy one? It's a 1998 Outback, automatic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnailD Posted September 29, 2015 Share Posted September 29, 2015 I've done a lot of things to try and fix my torque bind, from replacing trans fluid to driving in circles and all of that stuff. I've come to a pretty solid conclusion that the center diff is completely shot. I'm driving it in FWD currently until I can replace the part. Anyone here know the part number/can point me towards where to buy one? It's a 1998 Outback, automatic. My roomate had one and told me about an interesting way to fix this issue, he did it on his but i needed to get a new diff since mine is manual. When he gets back from his trip i can ask. It might save you buying a part but sorry i don't know the part number. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HIMAN1998 Posted September 29, 2015 Author Share Posted September 29, 2015 My roomate had one and told me about an interesting way to fix this issue, he did it on his but i needed to get a new diff since mine is manual. When he gets back from his trip i can ask. It might save you buying a part but sorry i don't know the part number. There's so many things that I've tried that I honestly don't think anything but replacement will help anymore. Nothing I tried helped at all recently. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted September 29, 2015 Share Posted September 29, 2015 so no blinking AT Temp light at start up? technically, it is a transfer clutch, not a center diff. what is your trans / car doing, binding, jumping, making noise? and when is it doing it, driving straight, turning, all the time, only when cold? do all your tires match? same size? brand? model? tread pattern? tread wear? air pressure? this is IMPORTANT. i have a rear tire with a slow leak, when it gets low my steering get a little ''grabby''. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HIMAN1998 Posted September 29, 2015 Author Share Posted September 29, 2015 so no blinking AT Temp light at start up? technically, it is a transfer clutch, not a center diff. what is your trans / car doing, binding, jumping, making noise? and when is it doing it, driving straight, turning, all the time, only when cold? do all your tires match? same size? brand? model? tread pattern? tread wear? air pressure? this is IMPORTANT. i have a rear tire with a slow leak, when it gets low my steering get a little ''grabby''. Front tires match, rear tires match. Not a complete set, but are all within clearance. Tread pattern is very slightly different, rears have 1 extra set of grooves in the center. The torque bind happens all the time, even checked tire pressure and got them all exactly the same. Only does it bad when turning sharply, will sometimes do it under hard acceleration. Can feel it at highway speeds some. And I found the part number for the clutch pack, I'm gonna get it replaced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted September 30, 2015 Share Posted September 30, 2015 swap left front tire with the right rear, and see if the problem improves. since trhe FWD fuse solves the problem, the duty C is working . transfer clutch failure usually results in no power to the rear, not torque bind. grooves worn in the clutch drum will / can cause AWD delay to the rear. swap the tires as mentioned and see if it gets better. matched tires on the diagonals. it is probably your tires. you say they are with in limits, the limit is 1/4 inch in CIRCUMFERENCE. if you have not put a 10 ft. metal tape measure on them you cannot be sure. measuring tread depth does not count unless the tires are all 4 matched. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osei Posted October 1, 2015 Share Posted October 1, 2015 Easy to just use a length of string. Go around the center of one tire and where the string crosses mark with a felt pen. Measure the other three in exactly the same way. As you do each measure the difference from the first. The max difference allowed is 5/32. O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted October 1, 2015 Share Posted October 1, 2015 that is a good way to do it, as long as you do not ''stretch'' the string. there are some strings that do not stretch. another way, but not as good, mark the 6 oclock position of each tire. you may want to put duct tape on the tire for a cleaner mark. then move the car forward one tire rotation. do all the marks line up EXACTLY the same? i do not really like this method i do not feel it is very accurate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iwantonesobad Posted June 19, 2018 Share Posted June 19, 2018 Did ya ever get a fix in the same boat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setnev Posted June 19, 2018 Share Posted June 19, 2018 Did ya ever get a fix in the same boat Open up a new thread instead of bumping dead posts by members who have long since left the forum/haven't been active in years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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