Valve Cover Gasket Replacement Instructions Step by Step

[Soarer]

Here's the process I used that made this task bearable:

(directions are for right side valve cover)

 

A few notes.... While you're in there, you may want to replace your spark plugs.

 

Tools and supplies needed: Floor jack, jack stands (2), hockey pucks (2), 14mm 3/8" drive socket, 3/8" drive universal joint, 3/8" drive extension, 3/8" drive ratchet, 14mm deep socket, 12mm 1/4" drive socket, 1/4" drive ratchet, 10mm 1/4" drive socket, 10mm combination wrench (gearwrench preferably), flathead screwdriver, razor blade, Fujibond or Ultrablack RTV sealant, new valve cover gaskets and spark plug hole gaskets, brake cleaner, oil drain pan, 2' of aluminum foil, pliers, scotchbrite pad, ATF fluid for power steering, oil, patience.

 

1. Remove engine cover

2. Disconnect MAF

3. Remove airbox or intake (whichever you have)

4. Disconnect power steering hose from reservoir leaving the rubber connecting hose on the reservoir. Take a 1 qt yogurt container, put a small hole near the rim, run a zip tie through and secure the container to the PS res bracket to catch the PS fluid.

5. Jack up front of car but not too high as you'll still need your jack to lift the motor up in a minute.

6. Remove underbody engine cover.

7. Loosen left motor mount about 6 turns but do nor remove nut.

8. Remove right motor mount nut and washer.

9. Loosen transmission mount nuts about 8 turns.

10. Jack up the right side of the motor carefully. Put a block of wood or stack two hockey pucks on the top of your jack and push against the bolt that holds the bottom of the heat shield to the exhaust manifold under the right head. Lift the motor slowly and be careful not to lift too far. When you start to feel some resistance, back of a hair so you're not compressing the motor into the tunnel.

11. Remove the valve cover vent/equalization hoses from the top of the valve cover. Fold them up and out of the way.

12. Unplug the coil packs and pull the zip tie style out of the valve cover. Fold the wires up and out of the way.

13. Remove the coil packs.

14. Place aluminum foil around your up pipe and on top of your exhaust manifold to prevent oil from soaking it when you pull the valve cover.

15. Place an oil catch pan under the right side of the motor.

16. Remove the valve cover bolts.

17. Remove the valve cover.

18. Clean the mating surface of the head. This needs to have ALL gasket maker/RTV/Fujibond removed. It's got to be SPOTLESS. Pull off the big chunks with your hand. Carefully use a razor blade to cut off as much as you can being sure not to score the soft aluminum mating surface. Use a Scotch pad to remove the rest of the gunk.

19. With a clean rag or paper towel soak up any oil that has collected in the bottom of the head. You don't want this dripping on the mating surface before you apply your new RTV.

20. Clean up your valve cover. Carefully clean the channel where the gasket sits. Get it spotless. Spray down the inside and outside of the valve cover with brake cleaner.

21. Rest your new gasket and spark plug hole gaskets in the valve cover channels.

22. Spray some brake cleaner on a clean rag and wipe down the mating surface on the head. Check for any bits of old sealant that may have fallen behind the cam shaft or along the bottom of the head.

23. Apply RTV Ultra Black or Fujibond across the half moon gaskets on the back of the head, along the bottom mating surface, up the cam cap and on the top of the cam cap where it changes elevation. Some spots are hard to reach so you can put a small dap of sealant on your finger and apply it where needed. The most important spots are along the half moons, the corners where the cam cap meets the head and along any elevation changes on the cam caps.

24. Carefully slide your valve cover into place making sure that you didn't unseat your gaskets anywhere.

25. Install your valve cover bolts hand tight. Use a 10mm socket and turn it by hand without the ratchet handle. Be sure to follow the tightening alphabetical sequence shown in the pic above.

26. Let the sealant cure for at least one hour.

27. Tighten the valve cover bolts a little at a time in the alphabetical sequence shown above. You should go around two or three times in the sequence until you feel the bolts bottom out against the head. Tighten to 4.7 ft/lbs or 56 inch/lbs using a torque wrench. I used a 1/4" drive bar style torque wrench. I couldn't get it on one or two of the hard to reach bolts so I had to guess at it using a combination wrench. You'll feel when the bolt has compressed the rubber gasket and bottoms out against the head mating surface. You only want to snug it up a hair more at that point.

28. If you can, leave the car overnight to let the sealant fully cure.

29. Install your coil packs and plug them in making sure to reattach your oxygen sensor wire bracket to the rear coil pack.

30. Reconnect your vent/equalization hoses.

31. Lower the motor off the jack.

32. Tighten your left motor mount and reinstall your left motor mount nut and washer. Torque to spec.

33. Tighten your trans mount nuts. Torque to spec.

34. Remove your PS fluid catch container.

35. Reconnect your PS hose.

36. Top off your PS res to the middle line.

37. Install your airbox/intake.

38. Reconnect MAF sensor.

39. Check your oil.

40. Start car and check for obvious leaks.

41. If no leaks, remove aluminum foil from up pipe and exhaust manifold.

42. Liberally spray down anywhere that has oil on it with brake cleaner both old black gunky oil and fresh oil. Wipe it down and get it as clean as you can.

43. Install lower engine cover.

44. Install top engine cover.

45. Test drive car.

46. Check/top off engine oil and PS fluid.

47. Drink 100 beers.

 

After you've got all this done, you'll probably have some residual oil on your exhaust that's going to smoke as it burns off. Drive the car for a day or two and then get back under there to inspect if you got the job done right. Look for any fresh clean oil coming off the bottom of the head.

 

I'll try to get some pics up and instructions for the left side soon.

[DonnyJagaru]

Um, I just did this side on my 2.5i '08 and skipped a lot of these steps.

 

As for the left side, I'll drink the beers before attempting to dull the pain.

[Soarer]

Um, I just did this side on my 2.5i '08 and skipped a lot of these steps.

 

As for the left side, I'll drink the beers before attempting to dull the pain.

 

Here are the abridged instructions:

1. Remove leaking gasket

2. Install new gasket

 

[apexi]

It's kind of funny, you might not have realized something, but your last post is spot on for non-turbo legacies.

 

Post #1 is the how to for turbo legacies.

Post #3 is the how to for non-turbo legacies.

 

For some reason, our (non-turbo) cars don't call for RTV or anything. It's basically just a simple gasket swap. Granted, some of the things you mentioned could come in handy for us non-turbo folk as well. Elevating the motor probably would have made the job much, much easier. Oh well, live and learn. If I ever need to replace mine again, I'll definitely try some of the things you mentioned.