Picked up 05 LGT Limited, need some advice on modding.

[laff79]

I keep cars a long time. The ZX2 sitting in my driveway is 15 years old and has 270,000 miles on it. I would drive it coast to coast right now. I take care of my vehicles. If I do this right, this car will be fun too drive and reliable. Any upgraded parts I put in will be as good as or better than OEM, my suspension will be rebuildable, and the car will be fun/safe too drive.

So, what is a good car too drop that kind of cash on? Should I buy a brand new Mustang and then have to wait for the warranty too run out to mod it? Maybe new Corvette that won't have traction in the snow? Then I also have to deal with a big car payment that I don't have too deal with now. You remind me of someone on the Team ZX2 forum, do you have any relation in Missouri?

 

 

Nope. No relations in redneck country.

 

A good car to drop that kind of cash on? A down payment on an Sti or an Evo. Much better platforms for the kind of upgrades and power you're looking for. The LGT suspension is garbage and if you can't control the car, why power it up?

 

3" DP, Sti uppipe, bulletproof tmic mod, exhaust, tune, and save the rest for coil overs or konis. Stg 2 is a sweet spot on this car and has the best combo of reliability and power.

 

But hey...what do I know?

[ZX2Fast]

Alright, I admit that I skimmed most of this thread, rather than actually read it, so apologies if I missed something already stated or discussed.

 

Fyi ... a compression test and/or leakdown test would not be amiss before you throw a ton of parts at this motor. Even if is seems like it's running smoothly. It would be nice to be sure.

 

Ignore the 6 puck haters. I just had the ACT 6 puck put in my LGT wagon. I am thrilled so far. The old CM FX350 that came out chattered like a mofo. The new ACT 6-puck has yet to chatter on me. Granted, I've only gone about 3-400 miles on it so far, so it may wear in a little bit and start to chatter then, as that's what my FX350 did to me, but so far, I've had nothing but positive experience with the ACT 6 puck. Way better than the segmented FX350. I think someone mentioned TSK3 above also. This is a must-do kit.

 

As far as lightweight flywheel or lightweight crankpulley, I think you've realized that people have had CEL problems with either one of those, which has to do with insufficient inertial resistance on the drivetrain. Neither is recommended for the 2.5L EJ255/257. If you absolutely must do one, choose one or the other, not both. If do end up without a lightweight flywheel, all you're gonna need is a stock WRX (06) single mass flywheel. Goes great with the ACT 6 puck.

 

Front mount is more lag and just a lot more complexity and opportunities for boost leaks. You also have to cut your front bumper beam for an aftermarket one on the LGT, which affects its crash-worthiness. Many people run front mounts, but there's a lot of good reasons why people stick with the top mounts. Fyi ... the stock plastic engine cover is designed to mate up to the hood scoop so most of the airflow really only flows over the intercooler and over the transmission housing and out the bottom. If you stay top mount, Grimmspeed is the one to get these days, which may or may not have a shroud to marry the scoop to the intercooler. My Process West came with one, but I'm not sure about the Grimmspeed.

 

That intake will also be a challenge to tune for. You may have trouble on a OTS tune with the intake. Even the protuners struggle sometimes to deal with it. YMMV. By the way, the sti stock uppipe is not stainless. It's very similar to the LGT uppipe, heatshield included. The only difference is the cat inside on the LGT one. I believe there are several aftermarket ups for very reasonable money. I'm running the Cobb solid up, which I believe is stainless and somewhere around $110. There ya go.

 

Note for the headgasket issues ... that issue is common on the naturally aspirated boxer motors. It is much less of an issue on the GTs because Subaru used better headgaskets on the turbo motors. Not that it can't happen, the horizontal motor design does have a bit of an inherent flaw where the head mating surface is essentially vertical to the ground. On almost all the head gasket failures for the boxer, the failure occurs on the bottom side nearer to the ground. But like I said, this is not a common problem on the GTs. Just the 2.5i.

 

VF52 is a great turbo choice. The BNRs are good too. If you really want a ball bearing monster ... Blouch Dominator1.5xtr. As far as being picky turds to tune. Yeah a little bit. Any good tuner can deal with most of the issues, but they really do require a good tune to be happy. If you change anything about the airflow at all, a tune is recommended. The tune on upgraded boost really rides the knock edge and you have to be careful not to monkey with it too much without a tune. By the way, I think you can get where you wanna go with the 2 inch Borla catback. Yes it is more restrictive than the 3" from others, but not so much to keep you under your goals I believe. Note that Bren is great, but he does not do open source etunes. If you want an etune and a Tactrix, go with Cryo. If you do get an AccessPort, I highly recommend Bren. A dyno tune with a great local tuner would still be best though.

 

As far as fueling, you want the DW65C. The Walbro is fine, but requires modding of the pump housing. The DW65C is also good and is a straight drop in. The wiring *should* be good enough. But it has not been for a few people. I believe there's a wiring mod thread here somewhere for that. 850 injectors are enough, but 1000s would be better. If you go to the 1000s, get Injector Dynamics top feed and fuel rails and some tgv deletes for top feed.

 

Fyi ... there's no EGT on the downpipe. The stock uppipe has an EGT. It is there as a warning to protect the uppipe cat from temps that will melt it. If you remove the cat in the up, you don't need the EGT sensor anymore. See resistor mod on here and/or delete it in the tune. The stock downpipe has an O2 sensor (non wideband), which yes, you will want to keep. You may also want to add a wideband afr to the downpipe. The Cobb catted has an extra bung for this. If you really want EGT, the correct place for it is actually in the exhaust header.

 

You gotta make your own choices on AOS. Many arguments go both ways on that one. Stock axles are okay at this power level. It's actually hard to get upgraded ones. And also note that it's easy to get inferior remanned axles. Watch out for those.

 

Good luck! Welcome to LGT.com! Enjoy.

 

Here's what I've got right now. This made 275 hp on a Dynapack (also note the BPV and EBCS for the right ones to get):

Cobb up

Cobb catted down

Borla catback

Process West Top Mount intercooler

Forge BPV

Grimmspeed EBCS

Stage 2 BrenTune

ACT 6 puck (new), WRX SMFW, TSK3

suspension stuff too

 

Here's where I'm going at some point:

Dom1.5xtr

Top Feed TGV delete

ID1000 + rails

DW65C

Grimmspeed Intake

Borla UEL header

Crawford AOS

 

I'm expecting to make 350+awhp on that stage 3 setup when I get there. An equal length header would be even better.

 

A lot of good info there. I planned too get the Cobb tuners, since it seems everyone can use them. After doing some reading and looking at other builds, I've decided to stay around 250-280 whp. I could probably get away with stock fueling. If the pump is running over 90% duty-cycle, I'll upgrade it. I sent money off today for BC coilovers, Perrin uppipe, and a fresh VF52. I was already certain the stock BPV and boost control were going to have trouble keeping up. I hadn't picked out what I was going too use yet, but now I have an idea of what too look at. Heat soak and salt spray are an issue here in Indiana. I've worked on a LGT before that had years of salt getting in the bay and it took me two hours of hammering a chisel between the block and bell-housing to get it loose enough to insert a prybar. I've had several turbo cars as well and just sitting at a traffic light at 90 degrees with air so heavy with water you could see it, made the car very unhappy. The RacerX FMIC kit keeps the stock crash beam from what they claim, that is what I intended too purchase. I also intended to get the thermal coating. Since I'm doing the turbo now, I planned to go ahead and get a dyno-tune done. Hopefully they are good enough too tune for the Cobb intake, I love the sounds a turbo makes and really need too hear it. I wanted the 6-puck so I know it would hold the power, but my knees aren't getting younger and the ACT solid disc holds 400 ft-lbs, so that should be fine. I didn't really want a light flywheel, but single-mass wheels seem to cost as much so I figured why not. Someone here is selling a South Bend flywheel but I can't find much about them or really anyone that has one to give me an idea if they are good or not.

 

I'll upgrade the old worn parts on the LGT and start saving to finish my ZX2 project car. I was hoping I could get the LGT into the mid-12's and just be happy with that and then sell all the ZX2 stuff. It looks like that would take way too much work and money when for the same cost (well less actually) I can have an 11 second ZX2 for a summer car. I'm sure I'll still have this LGT when my son starts driving, he is four now.

 

Nope. No relations in redneck country.

 

A good car to drop that kind of cash on? A down payment on an Sti or an Evo. Much better platforms for the kind of upgrades and power you're looking for. The LGT suspension is garbage and if you can't control the car, why power it up?

 

3" DP, Sti uppipe, bulletproof tmic mod, exhaust, tune, and save the rest for coil overs or konis. Stg 2 is a sweet spot on this car and has the best combo of reliability and power.

 

But hey...what do I know?

 

I would rather keep the low 3-year payment I have now for a car I can mod without worrying about the dealer looking for ways too screw me out of the warranty. BC coilovers, upgraded bushings, and sway bars will be plenty enough too keep this car on the road. I have a set of wheels with summer tires and set for winter so the tires are up too task no matter the weather. I had a 200+ whp Escort on sticky tires, Eibach springs, and upgraded sways that held too the road, I'm sure this LGT will do fine.

 

Besides that, the STi and Evo just look too gaudy to me. They are trying too hard to get people to look at them.

[ZX2Fast]

I wanted too verify, before I purchased it, this is the correct flywheel.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUBARU-OEM-05-12-Legacy-Clutch-Flywheel-12342AA090-/161759381829?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368

[Max Capacity]

IMO stay away from ebay for parts like this.

 

PM Underdog, tell him what your doing, ask him to send you what he would use for your set up.

 

It really is that easy.

 

Trust me in this one. Relie on the experts, who have worked on these cars for many years and know what works.

[Merc6]

Cutting corners leads to broken engines around here. Listen to them.

[Merc6]

Any luck in finding parts?

[ZX2Fast]

Any luck in finding parts?

 

I picked up some parts here (BC coilovers, VF52 turbo, Perrin UP) and Amazon, as well as a flywheel from a dealer on Ebay. I've been working on getting it together. I had to order new knuckles since the pinch bolts broke on both sides despite the amount of heat I applied to them. I'll be picking up my control arms today from the machine shop with the Whiteline bushings pressed in. I'm hoping to at least get the clutch mounted today (ACT street disc with SMFW) and if I'm lucky, get the transmission back on it. I took the turbo out yesterday so I could get the UP in later and removed the banjo filter. I was hoping to drive it this weekend, but the world conspires against me.

 

I'm still looking for a deal on a catted DP, I need to figure out what size injectors to use with the VF52, and find a Borla exhaust, though I'll probably have to buy that new. My RacerX FMIC should be here soon as well. Once all of that comes together, It'll go under the knife again and get towed to the tuner down in Indy.

 

I checked the turbo for shaft-play last night. There are no scratches in the compressor housing, but I can push the wheel enough to touch the housing. It is certainly time to replace it. That fresh rebuilt VF52 is just itching to get in there.

[Max Capacity]

I know they are a few bucks, but Moore Performance Blast Plates make the tranny shift a lot better.

 

Injector size, 740cc is the normal choice. Talk to the Tuner and see what he likes to work with. Do you have the DW65c ?

[ZX2Fast]

I just finished the first round of mods. Got the ACT street disc installed (holy pedal stiffness, Batman), BC Racing coilovers, Whiteline roll-center correction kit, Whiteline LCA bushings (with caster kit), Whiteline steering rack bushings, Perrin up-pipe and blanket, Cobb AP with airbox/intake, Group N engine and big transmission mount, and Torque Solutions pitch-stop. While I had the turbo out I removed the banjo filter. This car was down for a month, every bolt needed to be heated up to come out without breaking. I also had to replace the steering knuckle on both sides since the pinch bolts broke off. I had cruise control issues stemming from the front passenger wheel bearing so both wheel bearings got replaced with SKF bearings. I also replaced the wheel seals on both sides of the transmission because the round springs came out. When I put the car back together, everything got anti-seize.

 

I have a fresh VF52 waiting to go in, a RacerX FMIC kit on the way as well. I still need to get fuel injectors, catted down-pipe, Borla CBE, and a fuel pump. I've been debating if I should get the STi intake manifold as well.

 

Even with the alignment off I can tell this car is going to handle a lot better. I couldn't get this thing to over-steer in gravel, it'll do it now with just steering input. I may not even have to upgrade the RSB. There is more cabin noise (even some scary ones) but the ride isn't bad at all. It is more comfortable than my ZX2 on Eibachs. I am still undecided if I want to drop the car in the front any more. It seems to be sitting even from the ground front/rear, but the front looks so much higher. I'm not sure if I want forward rake just to make the car look even.

 

I've printed the Subaru aglinement specs and am going to ask them to add 0.5* to the caster. Any suggestions on additional adjustments to be made outside of stock? I'm not going to rally the car and don't want my tires to wear quickly so no need for extreme adjustments. If stock specs work fine with the extra caster, I'll just stick to that.

 

 

 

[Slusbe]

Wow man you're really trucking right along! You've done so many different mods I imagine it probably feels like a very different car.

 

It definitely sucks about the rusted bolts and broken pinch bolts. One of the many downsides of living in the salt belt I suppose.

 

Those cruise control issues are pretty prevalent apparently. I've had them since I bought the car, but luckily I don't care for cruise control anyway.

 

Can't wait to see your verdict on the handling once you get a full alignment.

[ZX2Fast]

It is different, it doesn't roll around like a loose turd in turns now and the back doesn't squat so much when I take off that the flaps drag. The stock springs on this thing really are soft. I can induce over-steer in gravel now with the steering wheel where it would just plow through with under-steer before. The catless up-pipe did wonders for spooling as well. I've got 6.5* of caster in the front now thanks too the Whiteline bushing and caster kit. I have -2* of camber in the rear that seems I'll have too get new arms to fix or just deal with the tire wear.

 

My Racer X FMIC came in yesterday, it is pretty. Too bad it needs tuning for that or I would install it now.

[Max Capacity]

Let us know how that ACT clutch works out.

 

My Spec 2+ has a nice light pedal, like stock.

 

You have done a lot in the past few weeks, step back for a bit and enjoy the car.

[Merc6]

52 and STi manifold aren't gonna be drop in items but then I realized you said FMIC. Did you get a STI turbo style FMIC kit with the LGT style turbo adapter? May have missed that in the paragraph above.

 

Bolts + salt + all those hot/cold cycles over the years = wish I was in the south.

[ZX2Fast]

I got the FMIC for the LGT, it has the LGT adapter with it. I'm still not sold on the STi manni, not for the power level I want.

 

The pedal on this ACT is... stiff. When my knee acts up, I won't be able to drive the car. I can't comment on how well it holds since it isn't broken in yet.

[boxkita]

look for Strizzy 's thread on custom axles. He's got a 1000hp solution. should be enough to keep from breaking axles on launch

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=237940

[mjlegacy]

Nice ride man. I picked up a red LGT a month ago also. I told myself I'm going to pick another color besides red but this was too good of a deal to pass up.

[Max Capacity]

Welcome to the forum.

 

http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/ you might like to have those.