Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

Exedy stage one clutch install question


Recommended Posts

So this past Saturday, me and a buddy of mine installed my new exedy stage one clutch in my LGT. We put everything back together but noticed something odd when we went to put the slave cylinder/boot back on. The boot was slightly ripped and when I went to bolt the slave back up the fitment seemed weird. It seemed like the very top of the clutch fork/piston that connects to the cylinder was wedged/at the very top of its (hole) in the bell housing. I engaged and disengaged the clutch a few times and everything worked but when I disengaged, the clutch kicks back out super hard. Is this normal? Do I just need to let the clutch break in? Thanks in advance for any helpful input.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The piston/rod on the slave cylinder moves in a horizontal plane, not at any angle. As GTTuner said check the fork, mine fell off the ball during the install. I have learned the hard way to check it before I start bolting the tranny on.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You would not be able to drive it. I could not shift the tranny with the engine running and the car up on jacks. That was when the fork dropped off the ball.

 

Here's what it should look like.

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN6632_zps72402eea.jpg

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have no clue what's going on then. Just took the car out for a drive. Everything shifts fine and the car is running. The problems I'm having though are as follows. When I start in first from a stop I have to rev up to at least 2k rpms and let the clutch out super slowly or else I get some shuddering and even then it shudders sometimes. Also, like I said before, the clutch feels really really heavy when I disengage from a stop, like its kicking back really hard. It's also now starting to make a squeaking noise when I let go of the clutch. Is there a chance the fork is on the ball pivot just not in the right spot?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Remove the slave/piston and check to see if the fork is still on the pivot. Wiggle it by hand, making sure it's fully on the pivot ball.

 

What TOB do you have in there? Was there a sleeve on the snot/input shaft?

 

Did you bleed the cylinder after install?

My wife's balls are delicious.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I removed the slave cylinder and piston. How do I see if the fork is on the pivot? I looked down there and could barely see anything. I mean I could see part of the TOB and pressure plate but it's dark inside the bell housing. I tried to wiggle the clutch fork and it doesn't even budge. Am I supposed to be able to wiggle that around? Like I said before, the clutch fork is as far forward in its hole in the bell housing as it can be. Almost like its wedged too far forward? I used the new TOB that came with the clutch kit. It was in perfect shape/brand new
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I believe you should have a little movement in the fork, that's the play in the clutch pedal.

 

If you can't even wiggle it, then its not on the ball correctly.

 

PM GTTuner to make sure.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use