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08 GT detonated


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A little back round- 5-6 months ago I had a burnt #2 valve and had probably the worst experience dealing with a repair facility. (Not a Subaru dealership) A 2 week turn around turned into about 6 weeks of BS. When I got the car back the it lacked something and kept throwing a P420 code about every 3 weeks+-. Ive probably put 5000 miles on the car since the work was done.

 

Im finding out that a couple of bell housing bolts are missing, a couple of valve cover bolts are missing and numerous bolts are missing throughout the car. Total shit show. The place where I have the car now asked if I had a back yard monkey do the previous work. Which from the BS I originally had I would have expected anything different.

 

So the other day while commuting home something major let go in the motor. A portion of the #4 piston top broke off. Not the ringland but the top edge of the piston. I kind of wonder when the previous repair facility removed the #4+2 piston that he didn't have a piston ring compressor and forced the piston back down into the block. So I need a short block and the heads are up to the machine shop to get checked out. The #4 head took a little bit of a beating when it detonated.

 

Im about $3000 deep from the last repair facility and this is going to run me about $5200. Im questioning if I should buy a used low mileage and go from there. I think I can pick up a 70k motor for around $2500

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That totally sucks, so hard to find a good wrench monkey. Not to your level of issue, but I took my car to a/the reputable Subby Shop in town for a leak/compression. They did it cold, so results skewed/not that helpful. They said everything looks good though (for what it's worth).

 

For your issue I hope you are seeking damages from that shop who screwed up your car. I would have went back with the other shops findings and asked for my $$$ and $$$ for the additional repairs. Just my 2 cents, since I am not nice when I'm getting raped.

 

Regarding the engine. New short block is $1850 shipped. You are already this far and everyone on the forums will tell you it's worth doing right. Don't bother looking at a used engine unless you want to do this all over again.

 

From other posts a rebuild with new SB should run around $5500 - $7000 depending on parts and any upgrades.

 

Again I would go full force after that shop that screwed you.

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Where in Maine are you? I am going through a build at this minute - sent my longblock to Boxer Motors (riderdude) and he is shipping it back built to my specs. Are you planning on doing some work yourself? If you can follow a procedure and have a little knowledge its not too difficult to do some of the work and save a bit of money.

 

Casey is assembling a longblock and timing for me, a couple of things I didn't want to mess with.

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Screw used unless you know the person who "REBUILT" it and have papers on it. Saving $200 here and $300 there reusing stuff is how I ended up with a very expensive driveway gnome.

 

Yeah I went with a new short block.

I was going to buy a new turbo cartridge where the stock turbo has a tiny bit of shaft play. Its not noisy nor has it hit the housing. At this point its more of a preventative maintenance item at 120k. I figure im dick deep at this point so I might as well go right to the fro. Im thinking of running this turbo for a little while/month maybe two because im assuming there will be some machining fragments/material that's bound to come from the new short block. I intend on changing the oil as soon as I drive it home from the repair facility and several time shortly there after. Does this make any sense of should I just bolt on the new turbo?

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Yeah I went with a new short block.

 

I was going to buy a new turbo cartridge where the stock turbo has a tiny bit of shaft play. Its not noisy nor has it hit the housing. At this point its more of a preventative maintenance item at 120k. I figure im dick deep at this point so I might as well go right to the fro. Im thinking of running this turbo for a little while/month maybe two because im assuming there will be some machining fragments/material that's bound to come from the new short block. I intend on changing the oil as soon as I drive it home from the repair facility and several time shortly there after. Does this make any sense of should I just bolt on the new turbo?

 

I think that makes sense. Make sure the oil is clean before the new turbo. You may want to replace the oil cooler too.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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