Whitebait19 Posted July 4, 2015 Share Posted July 4, 2015 http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah313/whitebait19/Mobile%20Uploads/20150317_192412_zpsh2hvozwx.jpg Hello anyone, Above is my 2002 Lancaster 6 (Outback) powered by the EZ30d. The past few months i have been mulling over in my head to do a manual comversion. In doing so i found there isnt much info out there of people that have done the conversion and what is involved. So i thought i would put my ten cents in and start a thread on how it goes for me. So, Today i took the plunge and picked up a 5mt TY754VBBBA http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah313/whitebait19/Mobile%20Uploads/20150704_211735_zps0mbweipz.jpg Finally the first peice of the puzzle is in my hands, at this stage i am gathering the parts that i need for the swap; Gearbox (check) Clutch kit Flywheel Clutch master and slave Clutch and brake pedals Starter motor (not 100% need to look into closer) Ej20 tt Subframe/ Box mount Shifter and linkage Loom for box (Annoyingly the box has no wireing at all with it) Rear diff. Im have only basic knowledge of this sort of work so any help and input is much appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BDII Posted July 4, 2015 Share Posted July 4, 2015 3.0 diesel? I know nothing about foreign outbacks Need forum help? Private Message legGTLT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparspecker Posted July 5, 2015 Share Posted July 5, 2015 I just did this. You don't need any extra wiring. You do need to tap into the yellow on black ignition starter switch wiring on the steering column. Run a wire directly to the starter motor solenoid. You'll need to open up the centre block of the Ecu loom and insert a pin to ground. Plug B135 pin 25. You'll also have to keep the auto selector switch on he old auto box and figure out which pair make contact when you move the switch into the reverse position. You then need to use the reverse switch on the manual box and wire into onto the two from the auto switch so your reverse lights work. Speedo is a pain. Haven't worked that one out yet. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whitebait19 Posted July 6, 2015 Author Share Posted July 6, 2015 Thanks!!!! The wiring is the main worry of mine, my goal it to avoid a c.e.l if possible? Are you in process of or done the conversion? Also any pics to clear up the mud? :-D Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whitebait19 Posted July 6, 2015 Author Share Posted July 6, 2015 3.0 diesel? I know nothing about foreign outbacks Yeah petrol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whitebait19 Posted July 19, 2015 Author Share Posted July 19, 2015 http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah313/whitebait19/Mobile%20Uploads/20150718_152146_zpsnzlee7i5.jpg A couple of small but exciting boxes in the back today, slowly ticking off the list.. http://i1383.photobucket.com/albums/ah313/whitebait19/Mobile%20Uploads/20150718_151657_zpspf6th2dg.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted July 22, 2015 Share Posted July 22, 2015 Start thinking about: -Clutch and Neutral swtich and how they affect ignition as on a factory 5MT you cant start it without having the clutch pressed in -Speed input and how the TCU and ECU interact, since you wont be needing the TCU anymore the ECU may not be happy about it -Also what Final Drive Ratio is that box 4.11 or 3.90 ? Just make sure your stock rear end matches that ratio -You will need a driveshaft for a 5MT -The cluster gear position indicator may display [P] but you can ignore that or terminate that connection so it doesnt illuminate -The ECU may limit your revs so again you will need to look into a way to alter the stock map to remove any limits in place to prevent you from hurting the engine as if it were still an AT -You will want to lower your idle speed If you get the mechanical aspect sorted out first the wiring and logic can be done easier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lockmedic Posted July 22, 2015 Share Posted July 22, 2015 The big problem with the 30D is none exist ANYWHERE (that I know of) with MT's behind them, and divorcing the TCU from the ECU is something nobody's figured out how to do without going standalone. So the only "successful" swaps I've read about have all retained the TCU and basically just attempted to keep it happy and busy by giving it resistors to drive instead of solenoids. Dyne's thread over on RS25 is probably the most sorted. Think he finally got his AC functional, no CEL, and working cruise/ABS. http://www.rs25.com/forums/f145/t155496-dynes-1999-2-5rs-h6-ez30d-swap.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whitebait19 Posted July 23, 2015 Author Share Posted July 23, 2015 Thanks for the input guys, i have alot of these things buzzin though my mind atm, the final drive for the box is 4.11, the factory drive is 4.44, so yes a nother diff is on the list. As far as depressing the clutch to start, my last car (2001 be5 b4) was not the case. Could start in any gear with or without pressing the clutch in. Ill have a read up on the rs25 forum as my main goal with the wiring is to avoid a cel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted July 23, 2015 Share Posted July 23, 2015 Ok cool that (the clutch swtich) may be a newer feature and USDM specific. Yeah the typical swap to pair a EZ30D to a MT is swapping in the EZ30D to a H4 based Subaru but I am glad you are attempting it this way. I dream of swapping a 6MT into a 08-09 Legacy 3.0r but at least then all i would need is the Liberty Spec.B H6 ECU. I wonder if a H6 Liberty 6MT ECU would run your 02 wagon?? When you think about it it is already setup for MT and the various torque requst tables, tip-in, fueling etc etc are fat least closer. You also gain the ability to opensource tune. Just a thought. Man a 4.44 F/D would be great for takeoff acceleration 4.11 should be easy to source since you already have the 4.11 box however that H6 would pair nicely with a 3.90 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lockmedic Posted July 23, 2015 Share Posted July 23, 2015 I don't think they made the H6/6MT in any chassis prior to the EZ30R. . .which is quite a different animal from the 30D. Adds AVCS and AVLS, heads breathe a lot better, probably explains the extra 30hp. With tuning anything's possible but putting a 30R ECU on a 30D motor might be a stretch for any tuner as it no longer has cam timing or valve lift to fiddle with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted July 24, 2015 Share Posted July 24, 2015 I don't think they made the H6/6MT in any chassis prior to the EZ30R. . .which is quite a different animal from the 30D. Adds AVCS and AVLS, heads breathe a lot better, probably explains the extra 30hp. With tuning anything's possible but putting a 30R ECU on a 30D motor might be a stretch for any tuner as it no longer has cam timing or valve lift to fiddle with. This is true, I was wondering if it could be as simple as altering the stock image to keep what you need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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