gimpydingo Posted July 2, 2015 Share Posted July 2, 2015 EDIT: Head gaskets are getting replaced. Mechanic found both heads are cracked. Any advice on how to proceed would be very helpful! Original Message: On my way home up a mountain road (S# of course) I noticed my temp gauge was just above the 3/4 mark; always sits just below 1/2. Obviously there is some overheating issue going on. 07 LGT, just under 87k miles. Couple of things, which will probably point to the problem. Several months ago I swapped the upper rad hose, from the reservoir near the turbo and noticed both rad caps were reversed, so I ended up swapping them back. Dumb I know! Possible air in the system? Drain a bit and burp it or just flush and go fresh? Or possible the thermostat? How can I check? Yes there is still oil in the car (needs to be topped off), no leaks, no rad fluid in oil, and has some rad fluid in the overflow tank still. I did put a turbo blanket on and also clamped down a heat shield (yeah yeah nothing to do with this). That's really all that has been done. Thoughts? EDIT: Lower Rad hose is only warm, upper hose is nice an hot. Thinking thermostat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zenfamily Posted July 2, 2015 Share Posted July 2, 2015 I had similar symptoms, have you checked the fan fuses? I had to use a multimeter to verify, because it was hidden near a crease in the plastic. If both fans are not working, especially in the summer, the coolant temperatures will behave as described. This happens even if your car is moving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy_Mac Posted July 2, 2015 Share Posted July 2, 2015 ^that seems very hard to believe when moving at a decent pace. Only an issue when stopped/barely moving. The volume of air crossing the rad from the car moving will absolutly dwarf the airflow ANY fan can deliver for that size of fan. If you have any understanding of basic heat rejection techniques and calculating rad/coil cooling capacities then you will understand why a radiator fan is giving zero benefit in cooling above probably 5-10mph. Any mechanic who tells you it will is either lazy or just completely hopeless Will be trapped air or faulty thermostat. 2000 Legacy B4 RSK - SOLD 2006 Legacy BP5 GT Spec B wagon - Garage Thread 2011 VW T5 van 2.0L of turbo diesel awesomeness Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDZ32 Posted July 2, 2015 Share Posted July 2, 2015 I had similar symptoms, have you checked the fan fuses? I had to use a multimeter to verify, because it was hidden near a crease in the plastic. If both fans are not working, especially in the summer, the coolant temperatures will behave as described. This happens even if your car is moving. Fan issues? My car gets a little hot if it sits in the sun with the AC on not moving after maybe 10-15 minutes. Wonder if that's it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zenfamily Posted July 3, 2015 Share Posted July 3, 2015 Normally, I would agree with you. I was on a cross country trip in the summer when I had a temperature issue with about 110k miles on the car. Temperatures were in excess of 95F ambient, and I would see a lot of the heating issues with the engine under load, even with the car moving. I made the exact assumption that it was a thermostat issue, and I would've replaced it at a relative's house. I got the advice from a mechanic to verify the fuse before dropping the money on the thermostat. I have had no issues in the 2 years after, even with ambient temperatures as high as 120F. Also, it is an easy check. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDZ32 Posted July 3, 2015 Share Posted July 3, 2015 What would I want to check exactly? I've never heard of fan issues myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zenfamily Posted July 3, 2015 Share Posted July 3, 2015 Check to make sure that the fuse in the engine bay is not blown. The fuse box is labeled underneath. I believe it was fan 2, since fan 1 takes out both. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Posted July 3, 2015 Share Posted July 3, 2015 Check the overflow reservoir. There's a hot line and a cold line. If it's empty, you're low on coolant. When the car is cold, you can add some directly to the radiator. If there's some coolant in the overflow, add some until it's at the correct level and the radiator will re-fill itself. If you're adding more than a little bit, you should probably add some conditioner also. How does the radiator look? I had an old Toyota Corolla that would gradually overheat, especially when going up hill for an extended period, even at freeway speeds. Turned out that it just needed a new radiator, which was something like $90 back then. You can check the fans by just letting the car idle for a few minutes after driving it. Keep an eye on the temperature gauge and don't let it get too hot. On my car the fans kick in before the temperature gauge needle has even moved off the midpoint line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gex Posted July 3, 2015 Share Posted July 3, 2015 Always bleed the coolant system from the turbo coolant reservoir. Fill main radiator then jack up the passenger side put on your funnel and run the car with the heat on full blast. Squeeze upper and lower rad hoses until it stops bubbling and car is up to temp (15-20 mins). I believe an 07 LGT has the upgraded fan relay as that was a 05 problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted July 4, 2015 Author Share Posted July 4, 2015 Thanks everyone. I did pick up a thermostat and rad fluid. I'll check the fans as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike07LGT Posted July 4, 2015 Share Posted July 4, 2015 Thanks everyone. I did pick up a thermostat and rad fluid. I'll check the fans as well. You might as well just do the whole timing belt job if you are going to replace the thermostat... you're almost due for it anyway if it hasn't been done yet 03 WRB WRX (RIP) 04 JBP STI (sold) 07 DGM Legacy GT (RIP) 12 OBP STI (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted July 4, 2015 Share Posted July 4, 2015 I have the same issues as you do. Started last year with basically the same symptoms in 95+ ambient going up mountains under load with AC on full, gauge would raise to 3/4. By backing off I could usually keep it at 3/4 drop it back down. Same issue also happened at a track day. I replaced my radiator with a Koyo racing rad to help combat the problem. But never really tested it. Since then, I broke a piston and had to have my engine rebuilt, and put on a KillerB oil pan. Recently went back over the mountains in 98+ ambient. Same, exact, problems, again. I'll be curious to hear what you find. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted July 5, 2015 Author Share Posted July 5, 2015 AC on up a mountain pass? I've seen many a person sitting on the side of the road overheated doing this. I'll post back my results. I've driven this way for many years in many cars, never overheated. So hope this fixes the GT. Strange thing is I had the car idling and it wasn't overheating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted July 5, 2015 Author Share Posted July 5, 2015 You might as well just do the whole timing belt job if you are going to replace the thermostat... you're almost due for it anyway if it hasn't been done yet I've never done a timing belt job. Time and difficulty? I assume I'll have to drain the rad? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/timing-belt-replacement-2-5t-106809.html There may be other threads too. This may help too, http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/ 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike07LGT Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 I've never done a timing belt job. Time and difficulty? I assume I'll have to drain the rad? About 6 hours if you know what your doing and have the right tools. if not you may want to find a shop to do it. Either way its recommended at 105k miles and yes you have to drain and remove the radiator 03 WRB WRX (RIP) 04 JBP STI (sold) 07 DGM Legacy GT (RIP) 12 OBP STI (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted July 6, 2015 Author Share Posted July 6, 2015 Thanks I did take a look at some of the tutorials. Not enough time for me to get the parts and get the work done, but I'll get the TB and water pump done in the next 10k miles. Got the rad cleaned out and new thermo in. Seems fine, going up the same hill today the needle only moved from slightly below half to right at the half mark. I'll keep an eye on it. The fans did finally come on, guess no issues with those. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDZ32 Posted July 12, 2015 Share Posted July 12, 2015 Have you ever used Redline Water Wetter? I used to run my Z32 real hard in the summers here in Arizona, and with just a stock rad it never ever got hot. I'm convinced the stuff is magic. I would use one bottle of Water Wetter, one jug of premix, and distilled water for the rest in both my Z and my LGT and it never heats up. The high today is like 116 too lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted August 31, 2015 Author Share Posted August 31, 2015 Car started to overheat again, same driving conditions. I had replaced the thermostat, flushed the radiator, added the conditioner, let the car run with turbo rad cap off, let it run and run until fans came on. Cars been fine up until today. Wife said she saw the gauge hit close to red and when tried to go it was stuttering and bucking. What the heck?!? Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunny5280 Posted September 1, 2015 Share Posted September 1, 2015 Perhaps some of the troubleshooting information in my thread will be helpful to you: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/q-temperature-gauge-reading-244739.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ras06LGT Posted September 1, 2015 Share Posted September 1, 2015 Car started to overheat again, same driving conditions. I had replaced the thermostat, flushed the radiator, added the conditioner, let the car run with turbo rad cap off, let it run and run until fans came on. Cars been fine up until today. Wife said she saw the gauge hit close to red and when tried to go it was stuttering and bucking. What the heck?!? Thoughts? Did you make sure to jack up the front right side of the car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted September 1, 2015 Author Share Posted September 1, 2015 Did you make sure to jack up the front right side of the car? I took the cap off again last night, but I did not jack it up, let it run for 45 min, fans would not come on. Guess I'll jack it up tonight. Wife just called to say it's hot again, happened when she put it into sport/manual mode, right around the same place. She also said the car shuddered pretty hard while on the freeway in stopped traffic when she stepped on the gas, both today and yesterday. Bad fan relay? I know the fans have come on recently as I was pulling an LV after a drive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted September 2, 2015 Author Share Posted September 2, 2015 Wife came home, she said the needle was starting to rise when she say in traffic, but quickly went down when she started to move. I had the car sit and idle, fans come on, doesn't over heat, needle didn't move. Sounds like an air bubble. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 Well my friend, it sounds like you have a blown head gasket. I have experience all the same issues that you have and tried all the fixes, but still had the same overheating issue. There are several threads on this issue and the majority of the 4th gens have been to bad head gaskets. Get your car up to normal temps then park it while it's still running. Look in the coolant reservoir, if you see bubbles coming up and has a slight smell of exhaust, then you found the problem. Blown head gasket. You can also do a CO2 test on the system, but sometimes those are 50/50 accurate. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted September 2, 2015 Author Share Posted September 2, 2015 One more interesting thing, wife called me to say the temp gauge dropped down to the last couple of marks near the C. Faulty thermostat? I'll look at the reseviour tonight. My wife has a 40 mile commute, only starts to overheat on the last hill she climbs, then cool down quickly as she starts to move and head down the hill. The reservoir doesn't overflow, no loss of coolant, I have not smelled exhaust in the coolant, heater works just fine, no oil in the coolant. I'll pick up one of these as well: http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=BK_7001006_0361073538 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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