Drakuun Posted September 23, 2005 Author Share Posted September 23, 2005 Reviewed Document. Hissing noise might apply.. I did a Snorkus-ectomy but taped up all the holes.. of course though, that thing has gaps and leaks everywhere. I'll double check all vac hoses.. but I'm not thinking I'm losing compression..I mean, sometimes she hesitates or bogs when I give her gas from a slow coast or dead stop. As for my Fluttering Click, the only thing on that Document that comes close is the one listed as Knocking when Engine is at Idle speed and warm. I guess I'll see if that goes anywhere too. Thanks everyone.. keep it comming. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSiWRX Posted September 23, 2005 Share Posted September 23, 2005 Drakuun - Thanks for the help, bro! I'll definitely look into that as well! And I think I forgot to mention before - sorry about the hijack, and best of luck traking down your problem! <-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges '16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drakuun Posted September 23, 2005 Author Share Posted September 23, 2005 No-prob TSi hyjack anytime.. keeps it bumped. Thanks for the help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eamiller Posted September 23, 2005 Share Posted September 23, 2005 I would doubt driveline noise, if the sound varies with engine RPM vs. speed. One exception to this is the torque converter, which can make noises, although they usually are most prevalent when stopped and in gear. I could be engine knock, or even piston slap or rod noise. Since you did a snorkusectomy, then it's possible that regular engine noise overwhelms the sound you are looking for. It's also possible that the full-throttle enrichment and accelerator enrichment are quelling spark knock under higher loads. This would tend to point to the injectors themselves. Injector fouling is the main reason that GM is highly promoting use of Top Tier gasoline only. The additive level of non-top tier gas is just insufficient for modern fuel injectors, regarless of the grade used. You could definately have some carbon buildup on the pistons from using too high a grade of gas, which can cause localized hot spots that induce detonation. If the injectors are clogging, then they should be replaced, not just "cleaned" using some hokey dealership process. You could remove all your injectors and send them to a place like RC Engineering for a professional cleaning and flow check (http://www.rceng.com). Also, the use of a combustion chamber cleaning solution may prove helpful (see http://dsm.aenewton.com/combustion_Chamber_Cleaning.htm) I highly recommend RedLine's fuel treatment as something that can prevent injector related problems when using non-Top Tier gasoline. The drawback is that you will likely have to order it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSiWRX Posted September 26, 2005 Share Posted September 26, 2005 Drakuun and All : Sorry for the repeated hijack, Drakuun, but hey, like you said, bro, it keeps the thread bumped, right? Well, I did try a half-assed "burping" of my cooling system this weekend, and it seems to have reduced the liquid gurgling noise I was getting somewhat. So, I'm wondering now: With our two different radiator caps, how do I truly and properly "burp" our cooling system? A step-by-step would be appreciated for this weekend very-shadytree greasemonkey. ----- I'll definitely have to go back and check my under-dash/console cooling lines, too. <-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges '16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IwannaSportSedan Posted September 26, 2005 Share Posted September 26, 2005 I am in no way sure about this, as I haven't worked on a Legacy I don't yet have... But working on other cars where the radiator is not the highest point in the cooling system, it seems to work like this... Fill the radiator to the top from the radiator cap. with the other cap also open. Close the radiator cap. Fill the "top" reservior from the top cap. Run the car for a few minutes with the top cap off, and watch the fluid level. Top up each time the fluid level drops. If the car starts getting too warm as it is idling there (shouldn't but just in case) stop the engine, and wait for it to cool back down, and then continue. Once full, and staying full, close the top cap. Fill the overflow bottle half-way between the hot-full, and cold-full marks, and re-check the bottle level after a test drive, then fill to the hot-full mark if needed. The action of the waterpump pushing/drawing water through the system should push bubbles through the system, which will evacuate through the top cap while it is open, which is why you will periodically see the coolant level drop. Re-filling will raise that level back up, and fill the voided space. This can happen multiple times, so it is best to watch it for a little while, to make sure the coolant level has stopped dropping. Once the system is sealed, and the coolant gets hotter, it will expand into the overflow bottle, to create it's siphon action, then the coolant level can be monitored at that bottle. Gurgling does usually indicate air trapped in the system. If the system is sealed, the air pockets are held by the liquid's pressure, and just circulate in the cooling system, and reduce it's efficiency. If the system is open, the bubbles tend to rise to the top, and escape, leaving only coolant. While the system is open, and you are topping it up, it might be a good time to add WaterWetter, or a similar additive that inhibits spot-boiling in the cylinder head water jackets. That also helps maintain cooling efficiency, and keeps vapor out of the system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSiWRX Posted September 26, 2005 Share Posted September 26, 2005 Thanks, bro! <-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges '16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drakuun Posted September 26, 2005 Author Share Posted September 26, 2005 Yeah, Nice write up IWSS.. I'll have to make sure to check mine sicne I was gurgling a little too. Update on my issues... I've changed gas stations again, Going only with Shell/Amoco/Sunoco and only using 87oct. I need to swing into an Auto place today and crab my bottle of cleaner. Keep ya posted. Thanks again everyone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drakuun Posted September 28, 2005 Author Share Posted September 28, 2005 UPDATE Per the advice on this thread I have changed back to 87oct from Shell/Sunoco/Amoco. I'm on my second tank. On my first tank, the car displayed all the same symptoms as listed in the OP..and I felt, towards the end of the tank (yesterday for instance) the noise was very loud, and very easily induced. However, I've noticed that over all, the Engines tendancies towards bogging down and slower response times seem to be tappering off slightly. For grins today I got another bottle of Injector Cleaner (STP) and dropped it in. Just like the last time, the noise is pretty much gone, and I cannot no matter how hard I try get the car to make it. Certainly not like it was yester day when All I'd have to do is massage the throttle and flutter-rasp-click-flutter-rasp-click. Now the car is still making that Sucking-woosh SSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSHHH HHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH.. Sound when I lay on the throttle.. This sounds OK Ie.. not out of the ordinary, so I'm going to assume due to my Snorkusectomy that I'm just hearing extra air suckage through the Ram-Aim Intake + ill fitting due leakage. Anyways.. I'm going to take it to the dealer service center while I have the cleaner in it, and take the Serv Tech for a spin, see if he notices the difference as well.. maybe this will get me some place. But at this point, I'm leaning towards Carbon build up on the Injectors / Valves / Piston Heads and this may be where this fluttering-raspy-click is comming from. Why it goes away with injector cleaner though... baffles me maybe it takes enough build up off the edges to calm it down.. who knows. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drakuun Posted October 4, 2005 Author Share Posted October 4, 2005 My Uncle who is a mechanic is in town from out of state. For grins I gave him the same discription I gave my suby mechanic, then started the car up and let him listen to it. (I did not take him for a ride..yet) He believes the issue to be a possible bad Cat or an exhaust leak of some sort.. he says that the fact that it wants to bog down under acceleration, and the fact that it only does it under load is what makes him think it's the exhaust. I do notice that the sound comes primarily from the Drivers side of the car. So.. what does any/everyone think of that assesment? Possible that a bad cat could cause this noise? I plan on taking my Uncle out Thursday for a spin to really let him hear it. Update then.. stay tuned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j0ebert Posted December 8, 2005 Share Posted December 8, 2005 Wondering what ever happened to this, as I think my noise sounds similar to yours. Mine is on 05 LGT but similar nontheless. Let me know if you ever got it fixed or anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drakuun Posted December 9, 2005 Author Share Posted December 9, 2005 Well..really not much.. I got another thread here.. http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23547 so.. who knows at this point, could have just been all that noise from my recent thread starting up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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