Timmonsbm33 Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 I have a 2005 LGT w/ 112K. I have had the car for about 5 years and put under 40K on it. I recently got the Cobb intake and V3, once i installed the Stage 1 tune i started burning the clutch. Finally time for a new one. I got the Competition Clutch Stage 2 Street Series. This one [ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005OASY72?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00]Amazon.com: Competition Clutch 15026-2100 Stage 2 Street Series Clutch Kit 2006-2009 Subaru Impreza: Automotive[/ame] I plan on installing Saturday with a friend. I have access to a full garage as I am using the Auto Hobby Shop at the local military base. Does anyone have any tips for installing the new clutch? I have head that the engine wants to go forward and tilt after the tranny is disconnected. If i hookup an engine brace will that stop this and make it easier to reinstall the tranny? Any tips are greatly appreciated. Thanks a lot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doobaruGT Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 If you have access to a lift, that's ideal. if not, make sure you get the car lifted enough to actually pull the trans. This might also be helpful. Hardest part for me and my friends was getting the trans lined up to the studs on the very bottom. We worked for an hour or two, gave up, came in the next morning, and it slid right on. Go figure. Patience and persistence works Updated parts list since original part-out here. Original Full part-out of my LGT HERE! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 Have a new flywheel? I find it easiest to remove the engine for a clutch job. You can give it a coolant flush at the same time. Edit: Also, you can do the timing belt change while it's out if you haven't already. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doobaruGT Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 Have a new flywheel? I find it easiest to remove the engine for a clutch job. You can give it a coolant flush at the same time. This kit comes with one. I have the same one, though I bought mine from Mike at infamous Updated parts list since original part-out here. Original Full part-out of my LGT HERE! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timmonsbm33 Posted June 4, 2015 Author Share Posted June 4, 2015 This kit comes with one. I have the same one, though I bought mine from Mike at infamous How you u like that clutch kit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwag74 Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 Have a new flywheel? I find it easiest to remove the engine for a clutch job. You can give it a coolant flush at the same time. Edit: Also, you can do the timing belt change while it's out if you haven't already. I agree, if it's at 112k I'd pull the motor and do the valve cover gaskets, spark plugs, check the banjo bolt/filter and timing belt at the same time. Edit: If you only have a day that might be a bit much...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timmonsbm33 Posted June 4, 2015 Author Share Posted June 4, 2015 This kit comes with one. I have the same one, though I bought mine from Mike at infamous I agree, if it's at 112k I'd pull the motor and do the valve cover gaskets, spark plugs, check the banjo bolt/filter and timing belt at the same time. That is a good idea, is it really that easy to pull the engine? I do need to do those things was just hoping to save up for that. Any idea how much all that costs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwag74 Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 That is a good idea, is it really that easy to pull the engine? I do need to do those things was just hoping to save up for that. Any idea how much all that costs? It's been a long time since I used an on base auto hobby shop. Can you have the vehicle in for multiple days? If you did all that stuff you wouldn't get it done in a day. I didn't think it was too hard to pull the motor, you have to undue all the bolts holding the engine to the tranny either way. Obviously there are more connectors, hoses, radiator etc. The clutch is the most expensive part and you already have that, the rest of the stuff (valve cover gaskets, timing belt kit, spark plugs) should be $300 ish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timmonsbm33 Posted June 4, 2015 Author Share Posted June 4, 2015 It's been a long time since I used an on base auto hobby shop. Can you have the vehicle in for multiple days? If you did all that stuff you wouldn't get it done in a day. I didn't think it was too hard to pull the motor, you have to undue all the bolts holding the engine to the tranny either way. Obviously there are more connectors, hoses, radiator etc. The clutch is the most expensive part and you already have that, the rest of the stuff (valve cover gaskets, timing belt kit, spark plugs) should be $300 ish I can leave it in multiple days. It is my daily driver so i would prefer not to, maybe make it a Saturday and Sunday project? The Hobby Shop has bays with jacks and stands and bays. It also has lifts and a full bay of tools and old technicians to help and provide advice. I can do either, tranny or engine pull. Just need more parts and research on doing that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 The lift will be an advantage. I find the transmission is harder to get in alignment. Occasionally the turbo gets in the way, so loosening the turbo bolts will be a procedural step. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmoore5 Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 The lift will be an advantage. I find the transmission is harder to get in alignment. Occasionally the turbo gets in the way, so loosening the turbo bolts will be a procedural step. I agree on my 05 LGT MT the trans will not clear the turbo. You will have to loosen it. The dowels want to stick in the trans, so after you get all the bolts out you will most likely have a hard time separating the engine and trans. The studs on the bottom of the engine are a bitch to slide out of the trans, you have to keep the engine and trans parallel during this. Two people will make this easier. Do what ever you can to lock the motor from being able to move up and down. The FSM shows using a support in place of the pitch stopper, I will fab something if I have to do this again. Try not pull the rubber boot off the shifter. I spent 45 minutes getting the wire clamp back on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doobaruGT Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 How you u like that clutch kit? Really like it. It's much better than the exedy I had in before. Pedal feel is better and it grips like a champ. I got it assuming I would go bigger turbo, which I have, and it's done everything it said it would do. Still no slipping in 5th after about 60k; 20k of which has been on my AVO 380 turbo with 380 ft.lbs of torque. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Updated parts list since original part-out here. Original Full part-out of my LGT HERE! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doobaruGT Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 Have a new flywheel? I find it easiest to remove the engine for a clutch job. You can give it a coolant flush at the same time. Edit: Also, you can do the timing belt change while it's out if you haven't already. This is a great idea at your mileage! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Updated parts list since original part-out here. Original Full part-out of my LGT HERE! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 I agree, if it's at 112k I'd pull the motor and do the valve cover gaskets, spark plugs, check the banjo bolt/filter and timing belt at the same time. Edit: If you only have a day that might be a bit much...... Yea, that's a great idea. All those should be done. Make sure you have the new orange O-rings installed at the intake manifold to TGV's. Look at my click here link to see how the engine comes out. What you should do is, open the hood, look over the engine bay, have a plan as to what you need to disconnect. It is pretty easy when you look it and have a plan. http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/ that might help some too. The GT's start around 1600 in the 2005 manual. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
notrix Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 This guy pulled the motor instead of the trans. Maybe you've seen it already but I think there are some great tips in there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timmonsbm33 Posted June 5, 2015 Author Share Posted June 5, 2015 I want to thank everyone for their input and help in this thread. It has helped a lot. I think this thread has now turned )to a tune up thread. I have had my car for a long time and have decided that instead of selling it im gonna save money relatively (hopefully) by keeping it instead of getting a new car. So it looks like now would be a great time to do a complete tune up. I think pulling the engine is the best way to do that. So now if anyone has any tips and ideas for doing a complete tune up on an 05 LGT 5MT with 112K please post. I'm looking at doing the following: New clutch and flywheel New Spark Plugs and wires Timing Belt Valve Cover Gaskets. Radiator flush. Clean the engine bay and any other parts of the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 No need for spark plug wires - it is a coil on plug design. Get the right spark plugs - NGK SILFR6A gapped to 0.030" Radiator flush can be done with a coolant of your choice. Peak Long life is a good choice. I haven't changed the valve cover gaskets on my car. If they aren't leaking, do they need to be changed? You will need Fujibond as well if you do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doobaruGT Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 Here's post 7 from a valve cover reference. It's not terrible to do. There's also this which has a lot of great info Updated parts list since original part-out here. Original Full part-out of my LGT HERE! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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