DBA T2/Street rotors

[boxkita]

holy crap. are you for real?

 

it IS relevant as 245 will not go onto a stock rim.

 

i tried an edr9 and it was heavy and went to rpf1.

Very real.

 

245 won't go on a stock rim? What shops are you going to? If a 205 can be mounted on 9.5 rim, a 245 can be mounted on a 7 rim. Just takes a shop to do it. b_holm is running 235/40/17 on 17x7 rims and it fits fine. The KDW is actually wider than most 245's.

 

edr9 is a bit heavier than the stock wheel (reference here) at 20lbs, as its close to ~21lbs in 17x8 configuration. The RPF1 is about 16lbs (Enkei's catalog). So you saved about 4 lbs per wheel over stock.

 

The stock tire, RE92 215/45/17, weighs 23 lbs. Your tire probably weighs 25lbs (you don't say, so I'm averaging the popular brands). So your tire is 2 lbs heavier than stock.

 

For net decrease per corner of 2lbs. On a ~3600 lb LGT sedan, you saved 0.2% weight. That's a finely tuned butt to notice that slight amount. As in running 1 gallon less in your tank would have a bigger impact than the $1000's you spent on that wheel/tire combo.

 

Still doesn't change the miniscule effect of the weight difference between the 2 brake rotors, nor the unlikelihood of you noticing it.

 

Would you like to migrate to counting how many angels could sit on the of a pin?

[boxkita]

holy crap. are you for real?

 

dba vs stock...what part of that did you miss??

 

dba4k is lighter than stock rotors. lighter than centric? i dont know. centric wasnt on my list. both lighter wheels and lighter rotors can be felt. have you bought any of these??? i bet your real answer is no otherwise you wouldnt be talking ignorant things.

 

it IS relevant as 245 will not go onto a stock rim.

 

i tried an edr9 and it was heavy and went to rpf1.

 

handle better? in what way? be specific. there is more grip and with proper alignment better cornering. 225's do not match the speedo. stop trying to convince me your low dollar poor man shopping is where its at. its NOT. why would i cheapen out and get a heavier more circumferenced tire?? pulley effects??

 

i know the 225 45 17 is close to 245 40 17. got width but shorter sidewall. simple physics. the circumference is just aweful on a 225-45. i went with 245 40mto match the speedo. thats the only reason.

 

currently i run the pilot sport 245 a/s 3. previously 245 as+ and 215 re960. they are 1 lb apart. 25 vs 24. wheels are 6lbs lighter than stock. 5lb net difference.

 

i have 4 dbas in the garage and 4 installed. i CAN weight them if i desire. centric rotors? its a joke to me. i also have a spare rpf1 and all 4 stock wheels with tires if you want me to weigh those too. i do not have to look on the internet.

 

you are trying to be smart and its not working man. please stop.

 

Any time any course. My 225's/centric vs your 245's/dba4k.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=177179&d=1395097506

[boxkita]

i think there must be pollutants in the tap water.

 

i am seriously amazed on peoples lack of basic logic let alone no real sense of an education.

 

just spewing stuff from a randomn google page.

 

dont worry...i tried to explain lighter weights to 1 MS EE, 1 phd candidate and a BS in geo and its like they never had a physics class.

 

it all adds up one way or another. here i see a lot of talk but not much else. im still waiting for all these "modders" from nw to post a vf52 dyno.

 

ive learned 99% of the stuff here is bs and people talking. convincing others their "idea" is best and why.

 

Given your current discourse, I can understand why no one understands you. Your inability to convince by means other than insults pretty much limits the conversation to crayons and colored paper. Feel free to explain using physics why your statements are true. I'll try to keep up.

[boxkita]

this has run its course. Moving to brake section for safe-keeping

[Mike07LGT]

Sorry about derailing it more. Feel free to report whatever you like and I'll remove it all.

 

/Boxkita

 

Lol not my thread nor would I report you for posting up good info. Like I said I only trust a few people on this board and you're one of them!

[FJuan]

:walksintothread:

 

 

[alyolles]

So while I must say that watching this was quite entertaining, back to brakes. In the price range of the StopTechs, is there anything that WOULD offer better performance over the centrics? As I said before, if its better im willing to spend the money. Already have SS lines and will be getting new fluid and pads.

[FJuan]

I just installed these last night, just to see how they perform. So far they feel like my pervious Hawk HPS pads, but they still need more time after they are bedded in to determine the difference.

[boxkita]

So while I must say that watching this was quite entertaining, back to brakes. In the price range of the StopTechs, is there anything that WOULD offer better performance over the centrics? As I said before, if its better im willing to spend the money. Already have SS lines and will be getting new fluid and pads.

better performance for what?

Hawk HPS + Centric blanks + SS lines + decent brake fluid (new) = pretty high braking performance. From there, you need to buy better tires (Michelin SuperSport, Direzza, Conti, etc). After that, you are in diminishing returns territory.

 

What are you doing with your car? If daily driver, that combo above works with any tire/wheel setup up thru lapping/autox. You can swap the pads out for other street performance to match dusty/noise levels you desire. Going for higher heat range pads will lead to longer stopping distances while cold and higher wear on rotors. Once you get heavily involved in either, you'll want a 2nd set (rotors/pads/wheels/tires) for just that use.

 

If you are exceeding the limits of that setup on the road, I'd suggest a high-performance driving school to learn to drive the car within your limits. If you are lapping with the fast Porsches or nearly setting FTOD, then you're beyond the realm of nearly everyone here. Probably <10 ppl left who do serious lapping or autox on a regular basis in their LGT, as most have moved onto better platforms.

 

So... ?

[alyolles]

And thats all I was looking for. The car is a DD and will very rarely see the Autox so according to well everybody, centrics it is. So the should I get the cryo coating thing? Or is it just a waist of money?

[boxkita]

And thats all I was looking for. The car is a DD and will very rarely see the Autox so according to well everybody, centrics it is. So the should I get the cryo coating thing? Or is it just a waist of money?

"

• Premium black E-coating finish to combat corrosion on the rotor hat and between the cooling vanes
  
• Cryogenically treated to greatly enhance durability
  

"

My current set has neither and are nicely rusted. The previous set has the above and didn't. If the price premium is not enormous, I'd get the coating. If you live any place where rust is a common experience on your car, I'd get it.

[alyolles]

"

• Premium black E-coating finish to combat corrosion on the rotor hat and between the cooling vanes
  
• Cryogenically treated to greatly enhance durability
  

"

My current set has neither and are nicely rusted. The previous set has the above and didn't. If the price premium is not enormous, I'd get the coating. If you live any place where rust is a common experience on your car, I'd get it.

 

Well put it this way, I go to school in vermont and live in new jersey... Think im gonna get it done haha. Any specific pads that go well with these rotors? I was thinking the StopTechs as I've herd mixed about Hawks.

[boxkita]

Well put it this way, I go to school in vermont and live in new jersey... Think im gonna get it done haha. Any specific pads that go well with these rotors? I was thinking the StopTechs as I've herd mixed about Hawks.

I'm a fan of Hawk HPS and have lots of experience with their entire line. As long as you stay with "street performance", you'll be fine. F1inspiredLGT has a different pad that might work, too. MrTris uses stoptech. Others are rabid about carbotech.

 

With regards what you "heard", remember every internet pundit expects their brakes to be of F1 quality in the first 1/2 inch of travel. This is just not possible, unless you're in an F1 car (for Phillip).

 

With brake pads, they have a minimum temp before they start working well. Until then, you could mount hockey pucks and have equal stopping distance. In cold weather, you'll want to put a bit of heat into the pads before actually needing them. If you expect your brakes to stop a truck in the first 1/2 inch, you're going to be disappointed with everything on the market. Practice using the full travel to get the best experience. Ideally, you'll start at 60% then got 100% gradually releasing until you're at 0% and fully stopped. It takes practice to get right, however, that initial 60% is what heats the pads up before going to 100%. You're at 60% just long enough to transfer the weight to the front wheels. Its best to practice this on a straight road or long parking lot (doesn't take much speed) with radio and toys off. Get a feel for how the car handles so when panic you're not additionally freaked out.

[Phillip J. Fry]

Very real.

 

245 won't go on a stock rim? What shops are you going to? If a 205 can be mounted on 9.5 rim, a 245 can be mounted on a 7 rim. Just takes a shop to do it. b_holm is running 235/40/17 on 17x7 rims and it fits fine. The KDW is actually wider than most 245's.

 

edr9 is a bit heavier than the stock wheel (reference here) at 20lbs, as its close to ~21lbs in 17x8 configuration. The RPF1 is about 16lbs (Enkei's catalog). So you saved about 4 lbs per wheel over stock.

 

The stock tire, RE92 215/45/17, weighs 23 lbs. Your tire probably weighs 25lbs (you don't say, so I'm averaging the popular brands). So your tire is 2 lbs heavier than stock.

 

For net decrease per corner of 2lbs. On a ~3600 lb LGT sedan, you saved 0.2% weight. That's a finely tuned butt to notice that slight amount. As in running 1 gallon less in your tank would have a bigger impact than the $1000's you spent on that wheel/tire combo.

 

Still doesn't change the miniscule effect of the weight difference between the 2 brake rotors, nor the unlikelihood of you noticing it.

 

Would you like to migrate to counting how many angels could sit on the of a pin?

 

 

when will you stop being completely wrong???

 

edr9 in 17x8 is 22lb same as a 2007 gt wheel. where do you get your bad information from??

 

17x8 rpf1 is 16.05 lb. my weight scale verified this as well.

 

i changed the crappy stock tires with 650 miles on my odo. yes. 650. went to re960 immediately at 24lb. not enough time on the car to feel much difference.

 

omg. you seriously support 245 on a 7" wheel? do you have a GED? only an idiot would do that.

 

your math is not applicable to what i have done. keep trying. one of these posts you will get something right.

 

3600lb?? no. subaru literature for a heavier 5eat is 3485.

 

net 5lb per corner from what i had.

 

btw a 225-45-17 is 28lbs. for a re960. its HEAVIER than a 245-40-17

 

why dont you go to a lighter wheel set and lighter brakes and speak from experience instead of speculation?

 

the dba4k are in fact lighter than stock. when you want to be proven wrong on how driving dynamics has been changed i will throw you my keys.

[alyolles]

Boxkita you've been helpful and I thank you for that but Phillip J. Fry you've done nothing to help the original post so please take your bitching somewhere else. That'd be fantastic, thanks.

[boxkita]

when will you stop being completely wrong???

 

So far, I'm running at close to 100% right, because actual data.

 

edr9 in 17x8 is 22lb same as a 2007 gt wheel. where do you get your bad information from??

 

No backing data = false statement.

 

17x8 rpf1 is 16.05 lb. my weight scale verified this as well.

 

So you have 17x8 +45 ? Then that matches Enkei's numbers.

 

i changed the crappy stock tires with 650 miles on my odo. yes. 650. went to re960 immediately at 24lb. not enough time on the car to feel much difference.

 

Congrats?

 

omg. you seriously support 245 on a 7" wheel? do you have a GED? only an idiot would do that.

Yep. Entire internet full of ppl who have done that and other crazy things. I'm not saying I'd do it, however, you could do it. I like a square sidewall as opposed to marshmallow.

Education? Sorry no GED. Where I went to school, once you can shoot your own dinner, you dont need school anymore. I got as far as the "see dick chase jane" books.

 

your math is not applicable to what i have done. keep trying. one of these posts you will get something right.

 

My math? And yours is based on "hooked on phonics"?

 

3600lb?? no. subaru literature for a heavier 5eat is 3485.

 

No link = false statement. If you can't reference an actual reference, you're making it up. Try again.

 

net 5lb per corner from what i had.

 

See here is where the math, even the phonics version, requires a proof to substantiate the statement. In physics, I think its called a theory which you then prove or disprove.

 

btw a 225-45-17 is 28lbs. for a re960. its HEAVIER than a 245-40-17

 

a 225-45-17 "what" is 28lbs? Different tires in the same size have different weights, which is why I posted the chart. If you like I can have my 2 year old transcribe it onto coloring paper with his crayons so you can understand. It may take awhile, as he is out hunting dinner as I write...

 

However, I'll try once again with a different chart comparing the stock tire/wheel parameters to your tire/wheel parameters:

on the left is stock 05 LGT values on right is your custom config

Diameter 625.3mm 627.8mm Circumference 1964.4mm 1972.3mm Poke 33.9mm 56.6mm Inset 143.9mm 146.6mm Speedo error 0% -0.4% Reading at 30mph 30mph 29.88mph Reading at 60mph 60mph 59.76mph Ride height gain 0mm 1.25mm Arch gap loss 0mm 1.25mm

 

why dont you go to a lighter wheel set and lighter brakes and speak from experience instead of speculation?

 

Yes, I suppose I could. I suppose I could spend $1000's on custom wheels/tires/brake/tuning/expert opinions and then more money testing these setups to arrive at an optimal setup. Then I could spend my free time educating others so that they don't have to go thru the same experience. Then I could engage in a stimulating discussion with someone who after 2 pages (big boy settings) still can't remember the original point, nor provide any solid evidence to support their strongly held convictions on any of the points (real or imagined). I could do all that. I really could.

 

the dba4k are in fact lighter than stock.

 

Again, try to keep up with the thread. We weren't discussing dba4000 vs oem. It was centric vs dba4000. So far, you have produced no weights for either rotor nor any other backing data. So, the "the dba4k are in fact lighter than stock" statement above is more of "I'm a dba4000 fanboi and you shall not talk bad about them. Which means all others are heavier and have worse performance. I have spoken. You should listen to me because internet." "Because internet" means "I'm wrong, however, I'm ashamed to admit I've followed someone more knowledgeable down a rabbit hole of my own creation and I can't lose face".

 

when you want to be proven wrong on how driving dynamics has been changed i will throw you my keys.

 

As mentioned in post 66, any time/any course.

[boxkita]

Boxkita you've been helpful and I thank you for that but Phillip J. Fry you've done nothing to help the original post so please take your bitching somewhere else. That'd be fantastic, thanks.

 

So now that I've grown tired of this lost cause. All off-topic posts from here on out, are deleted.

 

You want to continue this discussion, feel free to PM me with a track day booking and I'll meet you there.

 

/Boxkita

[Mike07LGT]

FWIW I just installed my front centric rotors and I couldn't be happier. Car stops on a dime and no more steering wheel shake from my previous warped rotors. For the money and daily driving I would highly recommend the centric premiums!