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spongy pedal after brembo swap


Bigshoes

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last weekend i swapped brembos and SS lines onto my 08. made sure the fluld was topped off and started bleeding them in the correct order PF, DR, DF, PR and using both bleeder screws. I have fluid coming out of the bleeders but no pressure it seems and the pedal is almost non existant.

 

Ideas?

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first, the correct order is PR, DR, PF, DF, and if at any point the fluid went too low in the master cylinder, then you will have to bleed that as well. make sure the brake lines are not leaking anywhere. under booster pressure, even a small leak will make the pedal drop to the floor. how exactly did you bleed them, just a gravity bleed or did someone help by pumping the brake?
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first, the correct order is PR, DR, PF, DF, and if at any point the fluid went too low in the master cylinder, then you will have to bleed that as well. make sure the brake lines are not leaking anywhere. under booster pressure, even a small leak will make the pedal drop to the floor. how exactly did you bleed them, just a gravity bleed or did someone help by pumping the brake?

 

That is the incorrect order according to the FSM. Correct order is PF, DR, DF, PR.

1500107310_SubaruBrakeBleed.png.52c28720af7d3f633b0294fc11af4f0a.png

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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either way, you cant effectively do a bleed without either a pressure bleeder or a friend to pump the brakes. so im curious how the OP did it.

 

Sure you can. You can gravity bleed them just fine, some folks even recommend that as the best method.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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a gravity bleed can be messed up very easily, especially when you have added new brake components, or have fixed calipers with 2 side to bleed. And as i said above, if you let the fluid go too low in the MC, you might have to bleed that as well.
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Fair enough, fairly simple to make sure the MC doesn't get low tho. Either way I'm pretty fond of the motive bleeder, makes it quick and idiot-proof.

 

OP, I would suggest a quick rebleed for starters. Also recheck for leaks, although that should be pretty obvious at this point.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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I had a friend pump the brakes while I worked the bleeders. I can not say for certain if the MC went dry. When I filled all my fluids before starting (reinstalled turbo so antifreeze also) it was getting dark so I didn't notice if it was out or not. To add I also have no pedal at all. After my buddy left I put the wheels on and while still on stands got the wheels turning to see if the brakes would stop them. Im not getting enough pressure to the pistons to even have the brakes stop the wheels. Pedal is pretty much non existent. Pumping it does not bring it back to anywhere near what it should be.

 

 

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And on the front Brembos you did the inboard bleeder first and then the outboard, correct?

 

If you only filled the reservoir one time, you clearly did not bleed enough, you should have had to fill it up at least 3 times from almost empty.

 

Pumping (5 times), holding, open, closed, release, repeat...right?

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Going to try and bleed the MC tomorrow after work with a buddy.

 

Has anyone ever gone this route with having air stuck in the ABS module? Trying to see what my options are for tomorrow.

 

 

Commanding Sequence Control Without the Select Monitor

 

You can also command Sequence Control

without the Select Monitor. To do this,

with the ignition switch “Off,” ground terminals

3 and 6 of the diagnosis connector,

using the connector’s grounding wires.

 

Turn the ignition switch “On” and, within a

half second after the ABS warning light

goes off, depress the brake pedal and hold

it. The ABS will go into Sequence Control

and purge air from the HCU.

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