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2006 LGT rebuild needed


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Option 1 is basically what I did. See my click here link.

 

I took the new ej257 and my old long block to my buddies machine shop, he rebuilt the heads and assembled the long block.

 

If the machine work is good, you don't need to worry about a warranty. The ej257 will be fine. The machine shop will stand behind there work.

 

Will shop one pull the engine and take it to the machine shop, let the shop do what my buddies shop did and then re-install the engine and do the start up and first oil changes.

 

Have the tuner load a base map into the ecu for the new start up, or arrange to have him there for the start up.

 

My ej257 has been at 21psi since day one, that was 54,000 miles ago.

 

Both shop 1 and 2 for sure, likely 3 also, would pull the engine out, remove the heads, and send out to get worked on. I have an Accessport, so would use that at first for Stage2. Option 2 uses one of the most reputable machine shops in town.

I don't have a warranty now of course, but would be annoyed if I put a pile of cash into an overhaul only to be stuck with a faulty install and no recourse. Which is the temptation of Option 3. Minimal warranty, probably most solid result, but overbuilt for my power goals.

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Over built = noisy pistons till it warms up.

 

I still say, have shop 1 do the R&R, have the trusted machine shop do the engine work with a ej257. Take them the new short block and the old long block

 

Put the DP on and go stage 2. It's a proven combination.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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  • 2 weeks later...

Still ordering and receiving parts.

Received:

-JmP rebuilt VF40 custom turbo

-Cobb Accessport V3

-Cobb catted downpipe

-Grimmspeed uppipe

-Grimmspeed EBCS - may help optimize the tune

 

Ordered recently:

-Grimmspeed cross pipe

-ARP head studs

-TSK3 kit - may need to fix TOB noise

-Silicone hose kit

 

Yet to order:

-TMIC - likely GS, maybe PW

-Misc OEM parts - eg oil pump- as needed

-Shortblock - likely Rallispec Street Spec, but could go with dealer reman

 

Will likely have a local dealer install. They have always given me great service, and the service manager is an old hot rodder, and understands the direction I am going. I've ruled out the local performance tuning shop for the shortblock work. They spec out a good build, but significant downtime is a risk.

 

So if I get the Rallispec block, I will have the dealer install sb, turbo, hoses, uppipe and cross pipe. After breakin, will install Stage2 parts at tuning shop, and dyno tune.

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It would be simpler to go straight to Stage2. I have a lot of confidence in the dealer's competence in the engine removal, organizing headwork, reinstall. However, I am apprehensive about having them start up the car with the wrong map in place for the parts installed at that time. So keeping the stock DP and stock tune will prevent that.
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Talk with a Tuner. The main issues would be a couple of CEL's. You could load the MAP into the car before they pull the engine and stuff. That way the car is ready for the dp , etc, no CEL's.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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So after many weeks of reading, enquiring and mulling it over, I've settled on the Rallispec Street Spec block. A bit pricier than a new EJ257 or reman EJ255, but will better handle a bit of knock that may happen from time to time.

 

Already have several parts in the basement (JmP VF 40, Cobb AP and DP, GS UP, EBCS). More parts on order as well.

 

I am looking into AFR/EGT fail safe gauges also. Will likely get the local tuner to install these. Maybe even do a dyno breakin and tune.

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Talk with a Tuner. The main issues would be a couple of CEL's. You could load the MAP into the car before they pull the engine and stuff. That way the car is ready for the dp , etc, no CEL's.

 

Dave at Rallispec suggested that also. The only risk is having a miscommunication at the dealer, and have someone reflash to stock to "fix" a CEL. Or put it hard into boost with a mismatch of parts and tune. So will be talking to the tuner (at a different shop) for their input.

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I don't know If this will help u, but I just got a new shortblock installed and heads rebuilt 1350 miles ago and counting. And I made it the first 1k miles on a stock Rom with an 18g turbo and catless dp. If u grab a larger turbo it's easy to stay out of boost while still being able to vary your rpms (and get a good seal) although I read somewhere that the rings will seal (or wont) depending on how u drive it within the first 25 miles. I changed out the fuel system the day before the tune and am now running 20 psi on an 18g so about the sam as max and it is running great.
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Dave at Rallispec suggested that also. The only risk is having a miscommunication at the dealer, and have someone reflash to stock to "fix" a CEL. Or put it hard into boost with a mismatch of parts and tune. So will be talking to the tuner (at a different shop) for their input.

 

Nice to see, great minds think alike. :)

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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