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Case halves torque specs


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To those who have rebuilt their engines, which torque procedure did you use to assemble the case halves (ej255/57)?

 

Bolts are oem and not ARP's.

 

Did you follow the FSM with the torque to angle method?

*image below shows "sti" but is "similar" to pages 68-69 of ME(H4DOTC)-68 manual.

 

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4065/4381219388_bfdcb64584_b.jpg

 

 

or did you do this instead: (taken from a post in nasioc.com)

 

"Lay crank in....

 

Stick block half on.....

 

Drop all bolts in and torque to 20lbs

 

Flip block over, drop the other 6 bolts in and torqueto 20 lbs

 

flip back over, torque [ame=http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006WFJ8BE]LONG bolts[/ame] and the two front 12point bolts to 35 lbs. torque the short bolts to 22lbs.

 

flip back over and in rotation, torque the 6 long bolts to 35 lbs.

 

Then I install the 10mm bolt and 12mm bolt (inside tiny bolt and rear flywheel side bolt) and just seriously snug up...

 

Good to go."

 

 

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Okay, okay....sorry...LOL.

 

To give you a bit of information that I gleaned a long time ago and it's supported by ARP on these cars. I've not done the case assembly myself but I have done a lot of heads and when it comes to tightening those down, they also have that screwy sequence that Subaru says is necessary. ARP states this when you use their studs:

 

4 steps to 90 ft. lb. In other words 25, 50, 70, 90 and then one more time at 90 or something to that effect.

 

Consider that as I've done all of the heads I've done on Subarus using that method regardless of whether or not I used ARP studs or just new Subaru bolts and have never had an issue (my 97 OB needed head gaskets at 137K and it now has 318K on it after doing the HG and still runs perfect with no coolant leaks or oil loss). The final torque number that you are wanting to meet, if you go in sequence in 3-4-5 steps to get there and do it evenly, you'll achieve the same thing. I would look for riderdude on nasioc and ask him. He builds about 50-60 engines a year and he would know the best way to torque the cases.

 

Good luck.

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Torque spec is "Tight"

 

Lol.

 

Okay, okay....sorry...LOL.

 

To give you a bit of information that I gleaned a long time ago and it's supported by ARP on these cars. I've not done the case assembly myself but I have done a lot of heads and when it comes to tightening those down, they also have that screwy sequence that Subaru says is necessary. ARP states this when you use their studs:

 

4 steps to 90 ft. lb. In other words 25, 50, 70, 90 and then one more time at 90 or something to that effect.

 

Consider that as I've done all of the heads I've done on Subarus using that method regardless of whether or not I used ARP studs or just new Subaru bolts and have never had an issue (my 97 OB needed head gaskets at 137K and it now has 318K on it after doing the HG and still runs perfect with no coolant leaks or oil loss). The final torque number that you are wanting to meet, if you go in sequence in 3-4-5 steps to get there and do it evenly, you'll achieve the same thing. I would look for riderdude on nasioc and ask him. He builds about 50-60 engines a year and he would know the best way to torque the cases.

 

Good luck.

 

Thanks for your input.

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I just followed the subie specs. Really it only takes like 5 minutes to do it. Just make sure you have 5 minutes of uninterrupted time to focus on getting it done in sequence - you don't want to forget where you are in the steps :)
BtSsm - Android app/Bluetooth adapter. LV, logging, gauges and more. For 05-14 Legacy (GT, 2.5, 3.0, 3.6), 02-14 WRX, 04-14 STi, 04-14 FXT, 05-09 OBXT
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So, I spoke with a local Subaru motor sport shop and the engine builder said 40 for the 12 points and no more than 18 for the rest.

 

He said he found that that's the number he ends up with when he uses the torque to angle method and never had any problems with it for the past 10+ years.

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