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A Shopping list for blown engines


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This is not Mr.Tris' shopping list. This is my list. These are the parts I used with part numbers if I have them. My rebuild/swap thread can be found here and is a work in progress.

 

This list is for those of you who are NOT rebuilding the bottom end (crank, rods, pistons) this list uses a new shortblock from Heuberger Subaru. I cannot estimate what it will cost for shipping, as I picked up all my parts.

 

If you order from Heuberger, order as much as you can online to get the lowest price (usually 25% under msrp)

 

Shopping List:

 

*Heuberger Subaru Parts*

 

Ej257 Shortblock from Subaru

10103AC040

1694.97

 

2005 Master Gasket kit

#10105AA720

(This gasket set on Heuberger Subarus website is only listed for 2005, for whatever reason. This is confirmed fitment by Max Capacity and MrTris)

261.35

 

Master Gasket kit for 2006-2008 (worked for my 2006)

10105AB010

(my gasket set was missing the update intake manifold to tgv o-rings, possibly packaged wrong? Heuberger Subaru shows this set as applicable for model years 1999-2008 all 2.5 engines.)

261.35

 

2009 Master Gasket kit

#10105AB200

261.35

Updated intake manifold to tgv o-rings

14035AA492 (you need 4 of them)

16.64

 

Head Bolts you need (12)

11095AA042

100.92

 

Oil Cooler

21311AA051

214.61

 

Cam Plugs

11051AA070 (4)

8.52

 

PCV Curved hose (connects metal pcv pipe under intake manifold to the large port on the block.)

99071AC220

6.82

Power Steering Suction Hose

34611AG22A

23.76

 

Power Steering O-ring

34439FG000

1.48

 

Passenger side Exhaust Cam sprocket

13049AA041

71.26

 

Driver side Exhaust Cam sprocket

13054AA033

71.26

 

Oil Control Valves (2)

10921AA020

176.80

 

Stock TMIC NEW

21821AA021

284.67

 

New Stock BPV

14471AA130

73.75

 

Oil Pump stock 10mm

15010AA300

138.71

 

*Grimm Speed Parts*

 

G/S Catless Up Pipe

003001

234.99

 

G/S Extra thick exhaust gaskets

020040

105.99

 

*Fred Beans Parts*

 

Thermostat

21210AA080

22.46

 

Oil return Hose

807515712

8.68

 

Heads rebuilt

Heads by Drew- Aurora, CO

525.00

 

ARP Head Studs

260-4701 (search the interwebz, or support our great community of vendors!)

180.54

 

Turkeylord's barbed blue tee replacements

see his thread here for the part and price

Rebuilt VF-40 from JMP6889928

Speak to Jmp6889928

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Do you have a price for the 1/2 moons and the crush washers for the banjo bolts after you remove the filters.

 

BTW, my master gasket set came with the larger orange o-rings. May be you got an old set. I did order the gasket set for my 2005.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I see you have head bolts listed.

 

Just saying I'm glad I went with ARP head studs.

 

Anyone can order them from one of the trusted vendor's or members here. Just PM, "underdog"

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I see you have head bolts listed.

 

Just saying I'm glad I went with ARP head studs.

 

Anyone can order them from one of the trusted vendor's or members here. Just PM, "underdog"

I purchased the head bolts, then you and tris convinced me of the head studs. I have those listed as well. ;)

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  • 1 month later...
OK, well, it's gonna be more than that -- can't just "drop-in" forged pistons, and, it's generally frowned-upon to tear open a brand new shortblock just to have to machine it and then put in new pistons. Sure, the pistons are only $500, but, then there's machining costs, too -- I don't think you're ready for forged pistons and the exta shit they bring. Stick with the OEM block.
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Since I am a recent member of the lgt wallet killer club.. i will give my .02

..or shall i say my $4500 ish...

 

17287_1568659643410488_3860151203999291464_n.jpg?oh=09c50e8230e51d69c30459d29082798b&oe=55B06C2B

 

Still need an OEM oil cooler and I am likely going to drop another $500 ish on 4032 forged pistons as well. :eek:

Have you read the sticky in the turbo forum on what pistons to use? For a daily driven, forged is not ideal. :)

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Have you read the sticky in the turbo forum on what pistons to use? For a daily driven, forged is not ideal. :)

 

I have and also read the "if you're considering forged read this first" thread and quote from a vendor as well. I also know that the vendor seemed to only be talking about 2818's and not 4032's which are machined to be almost the same size as stock, eliminating piston slap all but completely if given the correct warm up times. Many others have said the stock 09 pistons seem to always fail.. I'm not decided yet, but i've done a lot of reading.

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I have and also read the "if you're considering forged read this first" thread and quote from a vendor as well. I also know that the vendor seemed to only be talking about 2818's and not 4032's which are machined to be almost the same size as stock, eliminating piston slap all but completely if given the correct warm up times. Many others have said the stock 09 pistons seem to always fail.. I'm not decided yet, but i've done a lot of reading.

 

OK, well, if you decide to go with forged, don't use a brand new block. You can reuse your crank and rods in most, if not all scenarios, and just have the halves machined to fit your new pistons and bearings. However, depending on where you are, you may not be able to find an appropriate machine shop. These are not slap-together motors that you can do yourself, or something that the local shop that does mostly SBCs can do; you NEED someone who's had (successful) experience in building Subaru motors. Otherwise, you will be sorely disappointed in the outcome. (Read: You'll get to pay to have it redone, or just buy the OEM block!)

 

You're focusing too much on the horror stories without investigating. ALL Subaru turbo motors fail at some point. Some, sooner than others. Most, would be under some pretty heavy conditions, others, due to neglect/poor ownership skills.

 

If your power goals aren't north of 350, you'll be fine with a new OEM block and a good tune.

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OK, well, if you decide to go with forged, don't use a brand new block. You can reuse your crank and rods in most, if not all scenarios, and just have the halves machined to fit your new pistons and bearings. However, depending on where you are, you may not be able to find an appropriate machine shop. These are not slap-together motors that you can do yourself, or something that the local shop that does mostly SBCs can do; you NEED someone who's had (successful) experience in building Subaru motors. Otherwise, you will be sorely disappointed in the outcome. (Read: You'll get to pay to have it redone, or just buy the OEM block!)

 

You're focusing too much on the horror stories without investigating. ALL Subaru turbo motors fail at some point. Some, sooner than others. Most, would be under some pretty heavy conditions, others, due to neglect/poor ownership skills.

 

If your power goals aren't north of 350, you'll be fine with a new OEM block and a good tune.

 

What are u sitting at as far as power goes with your JMP turbo?

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What are u sitting at as far as power goes with your JMP turbo?

 

He is basically at Stage 2, with a better top and bottom end power. So somewhere between a VF40 and a VF52.

 

Yeah, pretty much. Quite a bit more power than a stock 40, and probably in the territory of a 52. Acceleration is super kickass!

 

To put a number on it? Ask Jaybird, he just got dyno'd. :)

 

EDIT: 255/286.

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Yeah, pretty much. Quite a bit more power than a stock 40, and probably in the territory of a 52. Acceleration is super kickass!

 

To put a number on it? Ask Jaybird, he just got dyno'd. :)

 

EDIT: 255/286.

 

255/286 sounds fun especially if the bottom end is improved, I'm still holding our for his bb vf40 if he is still planning on doing it

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