neil_k Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 Ill try to keep this short. I bought this car and the original engine puked. (Bearing material in the oil) The dealer replaced it with another used one car runs well no codes decent mileage 23. I was driving it today and I stepped on the throttle in second gear. Just to get it to spool and ran from 2500 to 4000 rpm and it sounded like marbles rattling I quickly got out of the throttle when I heard that sound. I'm running no ethanol 91 I know the fuel is good runs mint in my turbo VW and my snowmobile. The dealer was not able to find the cause of the original failure. The turbo was fine no leaks proper oil and fuel. Could there be a tune in there that would need higher octane? Sensor going bad? MAF? There are no codes that's why I'm asking. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 You need a new ( not piece of shit used) shortblock. And a new turbo, too. Why'd you let them put in a used block? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leviman Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 The factory tune needs higher octane haha. The stock tune is notorious for running lean and to far advanced, causing pinging. I'd contact your dealer, but if it hasn't blown... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil_k Posted February 3, 2015 Author Share Posted February 3, 2015 I'll call the dealer is there a update available? The motor is not blown up. Always gloom and doom on here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leviman Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 I hear ya on that. Everything's about to blow. I was just thinking, if you're under a warranty, it might be good to make note of any events that could cause damage that could cause a problem later (say, start a crack on a ringland that doesn't fail until 10k miles later or something). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 I'll call the dealer is there a update available? The motor is not blown up. Always gloom and doom on here. Oh, well, then. Sounds like you'll get along just fine without us, then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 ibthekaboom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 I'll call the dealer is there a update available? The motor is not blown up, YET. Always SUCH REALISTS on here. Oh, well, then. Sounds like you'll get along just fine without us, then. Yeah, people here can come out of the corner swinging, but that is because they have been there, done that. Bits of metaly turbo goodness in the engine, even a few small specs can cause catastrophic failure. When I bought my LGT the car felt totally good to drive. But once I hooked it up to a laptop and started digging more under the hood (thanks to this forum) I saw a whole slew of other issues. This forum and the people on here are great resources and I have learned so much. To my point, your VW may feel as though it runs well, but have you actually hooked it up to a computer yourself or have a tuner look at it or a reputable garage, can almost guarantee there are issues. Sounds like you bought the car and turbo blew, taking the engine with it, not that just the engine blew. How many miles on the car when you bought it? How many miles on the "new" used SB? What did the dealer do when they replaced the SB? Did they flush and flush and flush and then just dropped a used engine in? Did they only check the oil pan and clean it? Did they actually look for play in the turbo shaft and not just look for leaks? If you want the answers, the people on here will point you in the right direction, help with part lists and part numbers, etc... The dealer is not going to do that, they just want your blood and $$$. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil_k Posted February 3, 2015 Author Share Posted February 3, 2015 What did the dealer do? They bought a used motor with 80k removed the oil pan cleaned it and installed a rebuilt vf40 and replaced the timing belt. The minimum to satisfy the warranty company. I can see that the turbo was replaced there is all new oem hardware on it the banjo bolts are new also. The car uses almost no oil its quiet on startup in sub zero temps. I'm averaging 23 mpg combined. It doesn't ping all the time. I'm asking for help here. Maybe I have a sensor thats is on its way out. I want to be proactive with this. If you have some experience with this chime in. My car has 99k on it. Motor has 80k and is good condition with a new turbo. No junk in the oil. No CEL. I have a intermittent ping at part throttle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 Quick answer to your problems is to get off the stock map. A used turbo motor with 80k on it is pretty much done anyhow. "Good condition" is subjective at best -- Good for whom? Certainly not you, the end user. Just understand that to be true. Nothing you can do about it now, but, you're still right back where you were before -- #YNANSB. I recommend you get a Cobb AP so that you can effectively monitor what's going on inside your motor, in addition to getting you off the stock tune. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 What did the dealer do? They bought a used motor with 80k removed the oil pan cleaned it and installed a rebuilt vf40 and replaced the timing belt. The minimum to satisfy the warranty company. That statement you made is the concern everyone posting on here has. Was the turbo blown and that is what caused all this; since they replaced the turbo as well? 80k miles on a used engine, they cleaned the pan - but what about the rest of the engine components that are contaminated? - and installed a rebuilt (by who?) turbo? With you stating the pinging like marbles, typically with what you have had done, sounds like metal still floating around. How do you know the oil isn't contaminated? I saw one person posted they put oil into jars and looked at it in a few days to look for flakes or shimmer. Until it's been sent in to blackstone.... Hopefully someone will chime in about the pinging issue, but you may have a fight on your hands with the dealer and warranty to get the car running as it should, READ: new shortblock. You COULD be in the 1% and this could be unrelated to your rebuild, but prob not. Even with the doom and gloom, def listen to these guys. Best of luck man! Off Topic - Tris what part of the left coast are you in? I'd assume SoCal, but could be wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil_k Posted February 3, 2015 Author Share Posted February 3, 2015 Quick answer to your problems is to get off the stock map. A used turbo motor with 80k on it is pretty much done anyhow. "Good condition" is subjective at best -- Good for whom? Certainly not you, the end user. Just understand that to be true. Nothing you can do about it now, but, you're still right back where you were before -- #YNANSB. I recommend you get a Cobb AP so that you can effectively monitor what's going on inside your motor, in addition to getting you off the stock tune. I totally agree with you on the 80k motor. Warranty company's are not in it to make the car "right". I have a friend with a cobb tuner. Just gotta talk him into flashing his car to stock so I can try it. I do have generic diagnostic tool on my laptop it can log. I'm going to give that a go when I get home from work. I'm not looking for power gains. I just want a good running car. This thing is built like a tank super quiet comfortable. If I get 50k out of it that would be ok. I can handle rebuilding it then just not 2 months after I bought it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 Off Topic - Tris what part of the left coast are you in? I'd assume SoCal, but could be wrong. Socal? Thanks -- I'll take that as a compliment. For real, though, I live in Tacompton, otherwise known as Tacoma, WA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted February 3, 2015 Share Posted February 3, 2015 Socal? Thanks -- I'll take that as a compliment. For real, though, I live in Tacompton, otherwise known as Tacoma, WA. I was going to guess WA second. Is it that ghetto in Tacoma? I've been up through OR an WA a few times, it's all trees and hippies (well hipsters now) and people cruising in the slow lane. I totally agree with you on the 80k motor. Warranty company's are not in it to make the car "right". I have a friend with a cobb tuner. Just gotta talk him into flashing his car to stock so I can try it. I do have generic diagnostic tool on my laptop it can log. I'm going to give that a go when I get home from work. I'm not looking for power gains. I just want a good running car. This thing is built like a tank super quiet comfortable. If I get 50k out of it that would be ok. I can handle rebuilding it then just not 2 months after I bought it. Well it sounds like you have some options to monitor your engine. I'm on a stage 1 tune, to correct the OEM map issues and with minor power gains, which is where you want to be eventually. Start skimming and searching for posts similar to your issue and also look at the build threads - max capacity and mrTris - to how it should be done. I get the warranty company wants to do it on the cheap, of course, but it not being done right the first time means more warranty work and headaches. I know my SB is coming; I'll deny it until I see the leak/comp test and I save up the funds. The plus for me is this is a fun (and frustrating) project car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil_k Posted February 4, 2015 Author Share Posted February 4, 2015 The log i ran last night looked ok no knock no codes but the map sensor recorded a high value of 28 psi. Driving the car I didn't notice any abnormal running. I going to get a new map sensor and see what that does Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 MAP is Manifold Absolute Pressure. And if so, is ~13psi boost + 14.7psi atmospheric pressure at sea level ~28psi? Look at 0psi boost pressure to see if it correlates to ~14-15psi. it's been a while since I datalogged MAP, so please check this. Look for leaks or broken engine before wasting money on sensors that are more than likely good. Use search term "vacation pics" to find the factory service manual to do the appropriate tests on the sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil_k Posted February 4, 2015 Author Share Posted February 4, 2015 Ok that makes sense then. That map sensor is not cheap. Its more than likely fine. I'm going to check the turbo inlet pipe make sure there are no leaks there. I'm also going to clean the intercooler and check those seals. I got about 1500 miles on the oil I'm going to change it again make sure there are no flaky bits in there while the dealer is still on the hook. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 Be careful not to get soap in your intercooler -- it's bad news! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 Or snow on the undertray. Then you're f'ked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil_k Posted February 6, 2015 Author Share Posted February 6, 2015 Or snow on the undertray. Then you're f'ked. What happens then? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted February 6, 2015 Share Posted February 6, 2015 what happens then? kaboom! and people die... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted February 6, 2015 Share Posted February 6, 2015 As to what happens? Well... Your car will likely die a fiery, painful death. It best be let to thaw over the until the early spring months. hahahahahaha @neil_k, as of a few days ago, the running joke on the LGT forum has been a false concern of car wash soap on the intercooler possibly causing damage. This has now been added to with "snow in engine bay". Both have no real inherent danger. But don't say you haven't been warned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted February 6, 2015 Share Posted February 6, 2015 As to what happens? hahahahahaha @neil_k, as of a few days ago, the running joke on the LGT forum has been a false concern of car wash soap on the intercooler possibly causing damage. This has now been added to with "snow in engine bay". Both have no real inherent danger. But don't say you haven't been warned. I think you are doing a disservice to the LGT community by being dismissive of the snow on the Undertray problem. There is a huge amount of potential damage that can occur. Every time snow get's on the Undertray it literally dies a horrible death, by being slowly cooked until it disappears into a pool of hot liquid. Please, make sure your Undertray attachment points are secure and think of the snow! My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leviman Posted February 7, 2015 Share Posted February 7, 2015 Little known fact, snow is actually the solid form of dihydrogenmonoxide, and is fatal in some cases. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted February 7, 2015 Share Posted February 7, 2015 Mother of god. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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