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Compression test


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I just went through the valve job process due to #4 being burnt. I did not have any block work done just the #4 exhaust valve replaced and the lash set on all of the others. The shop removed the #4 piston to look at the ringland and it was fine. He was concerned I may have washed down the #4 cylinder. I may have driven the car 300-500 miles once the skip was evident. I was going to do another compression test after ive driven the car for a bit to see what I have now.

 

The whole process with the shop was a joke so im almost certain he did not do everything I asked of him and what he told me he would do.

 

He told me the machine shop decked both heads and im assuming that will raise my compression psi some? Unfortunately I only have the #2 cylinder reading prior to the work being done because I did it myself while diagnosing the #4 skip. The shop told me he would check #1+#3 prior to the disassembly but he didn't.

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How dose the engine run ?

 

Why worry about it if those no issues now ?

 

I think I read your other thread about your problems.

 

Watch oil comsumption.

 

They didn't remove enough material to worry about compression ratio when cleaning up the heads.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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It seems to run fine. Idle is much smoother. No random 301-302-303-304 check engine light like I had last winter. Ive been checking the oil every couple of days. Hasn't seemed to be an issue yet. Previous to the valve job I might lose 1/2-3/4 of a quart in 3000-4000 miles. I have been running mobil 1 5-30 synthetic since 96 k when I bought it. 112k now.
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On the bright side, your oil consumption is on par with B8 2.0t audi's that run "properly" :)

 

The shop removed the #4 piston to look at the ringland and it was fine.

I dont mean to derail your thread but...

an individual piston can be removed and replaced? or just removed?

My cyl3 most likely has a cracked ringland, but I would love to be sure and better yet be able to replace it without tearing the motor apart!

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Head work,1 exhaust valve replaced,timing belt,water pump,tensioners,pvc valve,turbo intake tube,rad hoses,head bolts,gasket kit and a few misc items was about $2500.... and 5 weeks later and a bunch of bull sht excuses the car was finished. Well after I fixed an exhaust and power steering fluid leak it appears to be done. I did the diagnosing for him telling him there was only 45+- psi of compression in cyl #4.

 

I had the shop remove the #4 piston wihile the heads were off to make sure I didn't have a cracked/broken ringland

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It seems to run fine. Idle is much smoother. No random 301-302-303-304 check engine light like I had last winter. Ive been checking the oil every couple of days. Hasn't seemed to be an issue yet. Previous to the valve job I might lose 1/2-3/4 of a quart in 3000-4000 miles. I have been running mobil 1 5-30 synthetic since 96 k when I bought it. 112k now.

 

Inspect turbo when you get a chance.

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