jayrex Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 Is this mount loose? Is a bushing missing? Should there be slack here for movement? I can push up on the tranny and it moves. I can almost stick a finger in between there. Thanks. EDIT: After a bit of my own research I have found this picture is actually normal. I guess they designed it to have some movement with a bump stop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 Yep, that's not good, you'll want to fix that. The best thing would be to get a STI tranny mount for like $65.00 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayrex Posted January 24, 2015 Author Share Posted January 24, 2015 Thanks so much for the quick reply. Can I just crank down on the nut for the short term? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AF_3C2 Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 I no expert, but you can try. Looking at the rusted condition, you may run the risk of snapping it though. Got any PB Blaster? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated Too sigmafour Posted January 24, 2015 I Donated Too Share Posted January 24, 2015 I'd soak it with PB Blaster before you do... but yes it's worth a try in the short term but it may spin on you since whatever is on the other side has come loose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayrex Posted January 24, 2015 Author Share Posted January 24, 2015 So what is SHOULD have done... Was stack some washers in there... Didn't realize I was doing this with my impact Not enough PB in the world for that mistake Seeing as that nut wasn't doing much in the first place.... Have a link to that STI mount? Posted this while under my car on a creeper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbits Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 http://www.rallysportdirect.com/STI-Transmission-Mount-Subaru-5MT-Models-inc-2002-2011-WRX I'm sure you could find it cheaper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayrex Posted January 24, 2015 Author Share Posted January 24, 2015 Good reference thou, so I know what I'm looking for. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayrex Posted March 14, 2015 Author Share Posted March 14, 2015 Just quick update on this for reference. Was about to install a new OEM mount, and realized after some research, my original picture with the gap between mount and bushing is normal. I have no idea why that post is even in the mount (5eat only). It does not attach to anything but the mount itself. This makes no sense. I can't even figure out a extreme condition where that gap would be closed (hit the bushing). The new mount did not come with a bushing - I don't think I have the old one either. I am thinking I can tighten that post down with washers to stiffen up the whole mount. As it is right now, its so soft I can deflect the post to the edge of the thru hole with one hand. The only thing I can think of is that the post would limit the twisting of the whole mount, so why would it not be the same on the 5MT? I am going to try this DIY solid trans mount too: http://www.wrxforums.com/forums/11-subaru-wrx-do-yourself-help/14115-diy-solid-trans-mount-20-a.html I thought it would degrade quickly, but the OP says it has held up over time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted March 14, 2015 Share Posted March 14, 2015 Curious how much quieter if any that is compared to the group N mounts. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayrex Posted March 14, 2015 Author Share Posted March 14, 2015 Pics of my DIY Trans mount insert. The 3M Window Weld cost about $25 at AutoZone, it was not available at Home Depot or ACE hardware stores. There is a weird pull tab at the bottom of the calk tube with no instructions that you were supposed to pull it. Rip that off before loading into your calk gun. That may be obvious to most people but I had never seen one like that before and worried everything would spill out. It does not. I put duct tape on one side only and peeled it off immediately when it was wet. This turned out to be a good idea. I didn't want bits of duct tape in the dried black goo. I will update if I get any negative results after install. Like cracking of the added material, but the initial DIY post said it holds up well even months later. EDIT: If you do this mod, learn from my mistake. Fill the void in layers... I basically have a cavity of wet adhesive with a skin of dry stuff on the outside. Its only been 24 hours, but layers would have been done by now. EDIT #2: Total dry time was about 3 days. It seemed to dry faster near heat - I put in next to my furnace. The 3M material is very sturdy and sticks incredibly well to the metal and rubber surfaces. Now that its dry I would say this is the better way to go, because I doubt you would get the duct tape off easily after it dries. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayrex Posted March 14, 2015 Author Share Posted March 14, 2015 Curious how much quieter if any that is compared to the group N mounts. The original post says it actually increases noise. I will keep an ear out for any changes, but my exhaust is a bit loud right now, so I doubt I would notice unless very significant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted March 14, 2015 Share Posted March 14, 2015 I did full group N - motor, tranny, (whiteline diff inserts) it made a lot more transmission noise come into the cabin. So even with a loud exhaust you might get an increase, just forward more. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayrex Posted March 22, 2015 Author Share Posted March 22, 2015 I did full group N - motor, tranny, (whiteline diff inserts) it made a lot more transmission noise come into the cabin. So even with a loud exhaust you might get an increase, just forward more. Yes, after installing, the transmission noise and vibration is a bit more noticeable. I can feel more vibration thru the floor on my feet while driving. I get some abrupt shifts every once in a while at low load high rpms, where the car sorta lunges forward. After the install these seem to be controlled much better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayrex Posted August 4, 2016 Author Share Posted August 4, 2016 Just a follow up on this modification. Been using this over a year in the rust belt. The filler that I used ended up splitting away from the original material, but only on one side. I should have skimmed over the duct tape side with a little more, as that is the side that 'split away'. Its basically back to stock flexibility. The other side(non-duct tape side) is still perfectly adhered to the mount. So I'd say this works long-term if done correctly (better than I did). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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