Catalyst Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Doing the head gasket on the wife's 09 2.5i and after fighting for a day with 3 seized valve cover bolt that needed to be drilled out and extracted, now I'm hung up on the cam pulley bolts. I got the belt still on with a breaker bar holding the crank and another breaker on cam bolt and it's not going anywhere. It laughed at my impact gun as well. I'm going to get a 1/2" drive breaker bar with cheater tomorrow. I threw some PB on the bolts but I don't know that'll do anything cause they obvoiusly aren't rusted/corroded. I thought I was gonna break the breaker bar I was on it so hard... Any ideas? "This is an adventure." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06leg315 Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 If the cam seals aren't leaking just leave em. Last time I took the can gears off was on my buddies sti and I ended up having to drill them out and replace the bolts. They are notorious for this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catalyst Posted January 19, 2015 Author Share Posted January 19, 2015 Need to take the cams off to take the heads off.. "This is an adventure." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06leg315 Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Dohc? Last 09 I saw had a single cam. Single cam doesn't require can removal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Bigger cheater bar. How are you securing the cam pulley? Is the belt clamed on itself with Vise Grips? Put a fence post on the breaker bar. This method has never failed me: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v300/beavis820/DSCF0172.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06leg315 Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Just re read your title... You don't need to take cams out. If your doing it in car like I normally do then just jack motor up couple inches that let's you push it side to side. Then I just use a 14 12pt and a one inch extension. Carefull not to grab the gear on the driver side though when removing because at TDC it's ready to snap over. I've sliced my whole hand open with that before learning what not to grab. Lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catalyst Posted January 19, 2015 Author Share Posted January 19, 2015 Bigger cheater bar. How are you securing the cam pulley? Is the belt clamed on itself with Vise Grips? Put a fence post on the breaker bar. This method has never failed me: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v300/beavis820/DSCF0172.jpg I tried the vice grips and I cranked the breaker so hard I moved it, so I put the belt back on to hold it better. Gonna try a bigger breaker/cheater. "This is an adventure." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catalyst Posted January 19, 2015 Author Share Posted January 19, 2015 Just re read your title... You don't need to take cams out. If your doing it in car like I normally do then just jack motor up couple inches that let's you push it side to side. Then I just use a 14 12pt and a one inch extension. Carefull not to grab the gear on the driver side though when removing because at TDC it's ready to snap over. I've sliced my whole hand open with that before learning what not to grab. Lol Engine is out because of those friggin seized valve bolts! I'll have to look at it tomorrow. If I take the cam caps off them cam and pulley will slide out? I bought new seals but they aren't leaking. "This is an adventure." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06leg315 Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Na. You don't have to do anything just take the valve cover off and you can get to all six bolts. Use a socket and an extension to extend past the rocker assy and your good to go. Seals aren't leaking so don't open up that can or worms any more than you have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drift Motion Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 I just took off the head today...haha luckily the cam bolt and crank is easy to get to.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06leg315 Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Also the bolts are marked. The black head bolts go in middle. Just FYI, I know when I did the gaskets on my buddies sti the bolts were all the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catalyst Posted January 19, 2015 Author Share Posted January 19, 2015 I just took off the head today...haha luckily the cam bolt and crank is easy to get to.. Timing chain. H6? "This is an adventure." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06leg315 Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 That is a s13 if I'm not mistaken? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catalyst Posted January 19, 2015 Author Share Posted January 19, 2015 If the camshaft seals aren't leaking what's the probability they'll stay that way? I just hate the idea of not doing some preventative maintainable while the engine is out. I'm already not replacing the water pump..lol. "This is an adventure." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06leg315 Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 If you are good with your oil changes you should be fine. They always see oil so the stay soft and good usually. Normally for head gaskets I do - gaskets, head bolts, spark plug tube gaskets, rocker cover gaskets, intake and exhaust gaskets, water pump and gasket, tensioner and timing belt. I really suggest doing the pump since youre already in there. But if I had to pick it would be the one thing to skip if needed. Belt and tensioner are a must in my eyes. You will know if the tensioner is bad because you look on top ofit and if you see oil (would be from inside the hydraulic piston of tensioner) on top around where that snap ring is then its on its way out. We all know what a failed tensioner causes.... Lots of noise followed by silence. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catalyst Posted January 19, 2015 Author Share Posted January 19, 2015 Yea. I got the gates kit with belt, tensioner, and pulleys. A tech at my dealer insisted last time to skip the water pump. The only other source of concern is head bolts. Im reusing based on ppl on this forum. Hope I don't regret that.. "This is an adventure." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06leg315 Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Reusing head bolts is always a hot topic. I personally never do that. Last thing u want is to finish up AMD find out they stretched further somehow. During the torque sequence the first set (30lb then 70lb) is to stretch the bolts... So in my eyes they got stretched then tightened into place retaining the best tension...IMO that means that when you reuse them and do that first set of tightening your not actually accomplishing anything. So I always replace. As far as insisting on NOT replacing? Weird... Do I agree that you're probably fine? Yea... But for what its worth you're already in there so just do it. Plus doing the head gaskets is a pretty big refresh on the motor so again IMO why not do it all. Then its almost like new again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drift Motion Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Timing chain. H6? yeah totally different car S13 is correct Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
700watts Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Two words: liquid wrench Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 You should be able to reuse the head bolts. Look at the factory service manual for reference. These aren't single use stretch bolts like Honda. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06leg315 Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 ^^this guy is correct. However I'm weird and like new bolts for things like that. Just one of those things where its up to you as to what you're most comfortable with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catalyst Posted January 19, 2015 Author Share Posted January 19, 2015 Thanks guys. And in before Rao realizes I mentioned replacing head bolts.. "This is an adventure." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Did you get an 8' fence post? In all serious, that's what it took + a breaker bar + 3 people to get a cam bolt out of a Nissan VQ35. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Catalyst Posted January 19, 2015 Author Share Posted January 19, 2015 Yea I'm just going to remove the head with the cams in there since the cam seals aren't leaking. Can't believe I didn't even try that... Water pump I'm second guessing now. I'm not sure if it was done with the first timing belt at ~110k. I'm guessing yes because the tech said not to do it next timing belt. But the Aisin water pump is only like 60 bucks on rockauto... What if I just leave water pump and replace gaskets for insurance? "This is an adventure." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian3676 Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 I have reused head bolts many many times, always fine, even dealers re use them. Dont skip the water pump, it will only be a hassle later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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