channoff Posted January 18, 2015 Author Share Posted January 18, 2015 Another question - I am about to apply Permatex and it's been several years since I last used it. After applying it, do I just hand tighten the 8 bolts or should I go ahead and torque to recommended specs (which isn't much tighter than hand tightening)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 That part I am not sure. I recall a vendor on this forum mentioning that they let it cure overnight before tightening everything. I'll try to find the quote. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 Another question - I am about to apply Permatex and it's been several years since I last used it. After applying it, do I just hand tighten the 8 bolts or should I go ahead and torque to recommended specs (which isn't much tighter than hand tightening)? A little late to the party, I know, but you'll wanna go ahead and just snug 'em up. Let everything cure for 24hrs and then use a 1/4dr ratchet to tighten everything to spec. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 This is where I found the info: I let mine sit over night. I wasn't taking any chances That is even better. We have on occasion done that if the custy has left it with us overnight. -mike http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpghttp://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/141039922.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://upload.pbase.com/image/137566671.jpg 11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts. Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us. AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: paisan@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
channoff Posted January 23, 2015 Author Share Posted January 23, 2015 I just want to thank everyone who helped me with this. Overall, fairly easy to do, but I just can't see how someone with big hands would be able to work in that cramped space. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CloudSeed777 Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 I just want to thank everyone who helped me with this. Overall, fairly easy to do, but I just can't see how someone with big hands would be able to work in that cramped space. Agreed, it does help to remove the motor mount nuts and lift the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 One (possibly dumb) question: did you drain the oil prior to doing this job? If not, did you spill some oil as soon as you took out the valve cover? Finally, how long did you wait for the permatex to cure? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 One (possibly dumb) question: did you drain the oil prior to doing this job? If not, did you spill some oil as soon as you took out the valve cover? Finally, how long did you wait for the permatex to cure? It's best to drain the oil to ensure that everything gets cleaned up in there. It'll be much less of a mess if you do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 I didn't drain my oil before since most of the oil is in the oil pan. Little bit of residual oil leaked when I took the valve covers off, but not much. After I finished the job I drove around 50-100 miles and changed my oil. I would wait to drain/change the oil until after the job is complete and you've done a little bit of driving. That way the old dirty oil can pick up dirt or other stuff that may have entered the valve train area, and the oil filter takes care of the small stuff and the bigger stuff should just drain out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 thanks for the info. Did you wait for the permatex to cure before torquing everything down? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 My naturally aspirated engine doesn't call for any liquid gasket, just the regular rubber gasket. I was reluctant to reply since mine is slightly different than yours, but the decision on whether or not to drain the oil, and how much oil would leak out should roughly be the same between N/A and turbo's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 I didn't drain my oil before since most of the oil is in the oil pan. Little bit of residual oil leaked when I took the valve covers off, but not much. After I finished the job I drove around 50-100 miles and changed my oil. I would wait to drain/change the oil until after the job is complete and you've done a little bit of driving. That way the old dirty oil can pick up dirt or other stuff that may have entered the valve train area, and the oil filter takes care of the small stuff and the bigger stuff should just drain out. This is why we drain the oil first; there shouldn't be anything for the oil to pickup and carry to the filter when you button everything back up -- when I said the area needs to be clean, it means CLEAN. Hose the insides down with Brakekleen, take a green pad to the gasket surface until there's no residue left. Then, hose everything down with Brakekleen again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 To each their own. I agree everything should be clean, but I don't see the harm in keeping the old oil in there and dumping it shortly after just in case there is residual dirt or something in the valvetrain area. By the way, are you talking about spraying the valvetrain with brake Kleen when the valve covers are off? That's a terrible idea in my opinion if that's what you mean. If you do that, I would run numerous short oil change intervals to get any residue out of the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 To each their own. I agree everything should be clean, but I don't see the harm in keeping the old oil in there and dumping it shortly after just in case there is residual dirt or something in the valvetrain area. By the way, are you talking about spraying the valvetrain with brake Kleen when the valve covers are off? That's a terrible idea in my opinion if that's what you mean. If you do that, I would run numerous short oil change intervals to get any residue out of the engine. That's how the #1 shop in the PNW does it. Has been doing it that way for years. No problems yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 Interesting. I understand brake cleaner evaporates quickly and most claim to leave no residue, but I wouldn't trust doing that myself. I guess in the grand scheme of things if there is any residue, it'd get diluted pretty good when it mixes with 4qt's of oil. Still, not for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 Interesting. I understand brake cleaner evaporates quickly and most claim to leave no residue, but I wouldn't trust doing that myself. I guess in the grand scheme of things if there is any residue, it'd get diluted pretty good when it mixes with 4qt's of oil. Still, not for me. That's exactly it -- any residual chlorine, etc (or whatever is in the non-chlor version) gets pretty well washed away and can't harm the oil enough to damage it's lubricity. The goal is to ensure that the RTV sets up on the heads and valve covers so as to create a strong seal with no leaks. Personally, I recommend cure time of 24hrs in a temp-controlled garage. (ambient is fine, just not freezing or too hot, high-humidity) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxman Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 It's how I clean differentials on my Jeep when I do a full service as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 That's exactly it -- any residual chlorine, etc (or whatever is in the non-chlor version) gets pretty well washed away and can't harm the oil enough to damage it's lubricity. The goal is to ensure that the RTV sets up on the heads and valve covers so as to create a strong seal with no leaks. Personally, I recommend cure time of 24hrs in a temp-controlled garage. (ambient is fine, just not freezing or too hot, high-humidity) How low of a temperature is ok you think? My garage temperature is in the 40-50s I'd say at this time of year. And when we say let it cure, how do we let it cure? I understand you are supposed to apply the rtv on the head but not on the cover itself. And so once that's done, I would wait for it to cure while the cover is completely off? Or should I put it in place, put the bolts but not torque them down? I'll have to do this soon and I would like it to be successful so I won't have to do it again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 How low of a temperature is ok you think? My garage temperature is in the 40-50s I'd say at this time of year. And when we say let it cure, how do we let it cure? I understand you are supposed to apply the rtv on the head but not on the cover itself. And so once that's done, I would wait for it to cure while the cover is completely off? Or should I put it in place, put the bolts but not torque them down? I'll have to do this soon and I would like it to be successful so I won't have to do it again. Sorry, that might not have been clear. Damn! And I have a picture for how and where to apply the RTV, but it's on my computer (that's currently inop). You apply the RTV on half of the head, and half of the VC. Install the VC gasket to the VC. Put VC into place ; start with middle bolts, working outward. Tighten down two to four turns with fingers, just enough to grab a couple threads. Shouldn't be pushing too much RTV out. Then let cure overnight/24hrs, torque to spec when dry. I think 40-50 might be okay. I don't have a tube of UltraBlack with me-- what's it say is its optimal curing temp? Follow that guideline and you should be okay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttcheung97 Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 http://www.flatironstuning.com/popup.aspx?src=images/Product/large/2033.jpgI'd like to know what the difference between the two spark plug tubes mentioned: the ones shown below http://www.flatironstuning.com/popup.aspx?src=images/Product/large/2033.jpghttp://www.flatironstuning.com/images/Product/large/2033.jpg and the Beck Arnley donut-looking ones. Don't they both serve the same purpose? For a GT DOHC motor, would BOTH of the seals be necessary? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttcheung97 Posted February 26, 2015 Share Posted February 26, 2015 Nobody knows? Perhaps I might've threadjacked, but I felt my question was pretty pertinent to the OP. Some more searching seemed to review the "shaped" tube gasket is for the DOHC covers and the donut-shaped ones are for the SOHC covers. Would this be correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted February 26, 2015 Share Posted February 26, 2015 I think your previous post did not properly show all the images you tried to embed. We only see one image. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted February 26, 2015 Share Posted February 26, 2015 To me, the beck arnley 039-6592 spark plug tube seals mentioned in post #2, and shown below, look identical to the oem Subaru ones in your image. http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41t3NvTJseL.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttnio Posted February 27, 2015 Share Posted February 27, 2015 they are the same.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttcheung97 Posted February 27, 2015 Share Posted February 27, 2015 Let's try this one again. I thought the "shaped" one was OEM subaru. http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41t3NvTJseL.jpg And then the Beck and Arnley version was ..... 039-6592. You know what, I completely goofed here. I just googled "beck and arnley spark tube seal" and not the part number, and came up with: http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41X4MH60KRL._SX425_.jpg Those types of donut seals seemed to be the ones used on the SOHC EJ motors, as there were some other postings on valve cover gasket replacements, but noted to be for the SOHC versions. I am ready to pay for the kit from Flatirons Tuning, as they sold their kit with the half moons as well(my original image), but how did you guys go about buying your piece? Did you piece it up from different vendors? I apologize for the confusion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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