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DIY Mud Flap install on OBXT - With Pics!

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Hey there,


So I got tired of having to clean my doors and rear quarters all the time, but also didn't want to drop $150 on Rallyarmor Urethane mud flaps (because turbo car has made me poor, anyone else relate?)


After looking around extensively for any material on removing the stock splash guards and how to fasten mud flaps to them, I found that the material was inadequate. So, I made my own for you all to enjoy, and here's how to do it yourself!


(Bonus photos)

Tools needed:


I'm going to preface this list with the fact that many of these things are open to modification. Have a lathe? Make your own washers and standoffs like I did. Don't feel like buying metric hardware? Head on over to the hardware store and get 1/4"-20 hardware, it's readily available and cheap. Many of these things can be made, fashioned (using a stack of spare nuts you have laying around for the spacers, for instance). Get creative. The whole idea is to save money, I'm just providing an easy way for you to acquire these parts.



  • 1 x Rallyarmor Universal (I used the plus version, which is extra long) - OR - Cutting board from Ikea/Magic carpet sled
  • Optional but recommended - The below, but in Stainless Steel
  • 10x M6x1.0 SHCS/Bolts, 20mm length(McMaster)
  • 2x M6x1.0 SHCS/Bolts, 40mm length(McMaster)
  • 12x M6 washers(Mcmaster)




  • 12x Tapped-Hole No-Slip Clip-On nut, 13.5mm panel spacing (McMaster carr, $16 for 25, share with a friend!)(Yes, I know there is no Stainless option)
  • 2x Aluminum spacers (McMaster)
  • Drill with 15/62" or 6mm bit
  • Vise grips, needlenose preferred. Can make do with a friend and pliers, or a dremel with a zip disc if you don't worry about your stock splash guards.
  • #2 Phillips (JIS if you have it!) screwdriver
  • #2 Slot screwdriver
  • The ability to remove your own wheels helps greatly, especially for getting the rear guards off, I daresay a necessity unless you are super crafty.




  1. Remove wheel, or turn wheel out of the way
  2. Put a piece of newspaper, or something else to catch the ~3 pounds
    of mud/dust/dirt that will fall out from behind the splash guard
  3. There are 3 fasteners holding the splash guard on. Two 8mm hex bolts with phillips slots in them, and a plastic expansion clip. You'll notice if you try to just unscrew them, no luck. This is because they don't use captive nuts, they use inserts similar to the good quality ones we will be replacing them with. You'll need to drill them off, or alternately cut them off with a dremel and a zip disc. I drilled through the plastic expansion clip as well, as it would not back out. We will be replacing it anyway.
  4. I used vise grips to keep the nuts from spinning when I drilled them out. Drill and remove the three fasteners.
  5. The guard will pop off. You will see the remainder of the bolt still there, unthread/pull this out with your pliers/vise grips.
  6. With the guard off, line up how you want your mud flap to sit. Check thrice, drill once.
  7. Once you are happy with where you want it (use a pencil to mark it if you are concerned), drill through the holes in the stock splash guard to make your mudflap mounting holes.
  8. Test assemble your mudflaps (optional) - If you're wondering, I used a lathe and turned myself the custom washers/SHCS retaining spacers that you see holding the flap on. Because I'm fancy.
  9. Now back to the car, we will need to remove these captive fender nuts to replace them with the larger hardware. They just pull of from behind where the hex bolts were by hand
  10. Once those are off, replace with large hardware (I'm awaiting mine, so I do not have a photo. They clip on. Easy as pie.
  11. The two aluminum spacers are for the front mud flaps. You'll notice a gap between where the plastic retainer clip was and where the new mud flap is. We're going to be using the long M6 fasteners and the spacers to offset the mount to where it can properly support the mud flap. Order of assembly: Long bolt, washer, mud flap, spacer. Then thread into the Clip-On nut you installed on this hole.
  12. M6x20mm, washer, mud flap, splash guard thread into Clip-On nut.
  13. Rinse and repeat for the other 3 corners!


I'll update this when I get all 4 corners done, once my other hardware arrives! Hopefully this is useful to others http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif Let me know if it was! Also, if you want those washers, send me a PM, I can probably spare some time to make you some.


Now for a beer.

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definitely love the custom fabbed bolts, but why install mud flaps on top of mud flaps? if thats your prefered look thats cool. just curious. i removd my stock flaps completely when i installed my homemades.


and agreed on the no need to drill. even if broken, i pulled the liner away and got some vise grips same as your photos to the back side and held the nut while removing the bolt.

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Hmm. Weird, all 4 corners won't let me just remove the bolt. I've hear elsewhere from others that they also just spin for their outback.


I kept the stockers because I like the body lines they add, plus they have worn away the clearcoat where they interface with the body. Better to keep them there in my opinion :)

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  • 1 month later...
Mine spin too. They are supposed to be captive nuts but the plastic has degraded and just breaks off. There's also no space whatsoever to fit a wrench back there so I think I'll try drilling them out. Stupid design, why are they made of plastic?!
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  • 9 months later...
Any pics of the rears? I've been looking for mudflaps myself and don't want little flaps like the fitted ones currently available.

Current: 16 Crosstrek Premium w/ Eyesight & 05 Outback XT 5MT

Past Subies: 14 FXT Premium, 14 WRX hatch, 06 Legacy 2.5i SE 5MT, 98 Outback wagon

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