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Ok driving home tonight all of a sudden I got some flashing lights on the dash, Cruise, check engine, S and traction control, Seems to be running fine but no idea where to look what do you think?? I bought the warranty to replace drivetrain.
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Well, the warranties are generally useless, so, just let that go for now.

 

You'll need to pull the codes so we know what's going on.

 

When your car throws a CEL (Check Engine Light), the cruise flashes because the ECU disables it to protect the motor from any further damage. Same for traction control. You'll also notice that your power seems to have been decreased -- This is called Limp (home) Mode, a feature that protects the engine when a trouble code is present.

 

Important note: When the Check Engine light is flashing, it's serious. Pull over and shut off the car.

 

I take it you're a new owner and don't have a tactrix or vag-com cable or an AccessPort -- so, you'll need to take it on down to your local auto parts store and have them read the codes for you. Post back here and let us know.

 

While you're here reading, though, you should brush up on common things to be aware of, such as the banjo bolt filters.

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At the very least, get your money back for the warranty -- these cars are expensive when things go wrong, and there's really only one way to do them right. Unfortunately the right way isn't the cheap way, which is why the warranty is useless. You'll spend more time and money fighting them because they've got your car and are performing cheap (and maybe even wrong) work that will only bandaid your problem, not solve it. Remember, you paid upfront for repairs, but you better believe that your repairs won't exceed 75% of what you paid for the warranty (that's parts AND labor!), and unless you paid an extra 8 grand for the warranty, it's just money lost.
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Go get your codes read in the morning. If its code that indicates a misfire in any cylinder, go immediately to the dealership and return the car.

 

If it's anything else, post back and let us know and we'll walk you through it.

 

Can't sleep? Read my Shopping List and rebuild thread so you get an idea of what you can expect from LGT ownership.

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Thanks guys, wouldn't be so bad but I asked the guy when I seen what I assumed was a intercooler and he said oh no its not a turbo. I just wanted Subaru reliability for a work car, The GT looked cool and was more comfortable then the regular legacy. I didn't buy the WRX ( which I liked more ) being responsible ( almost 50 ) its about time. I didn't want a build it up go fast spend a ton of money car :(. My fully tuned and studded F350 power stroke has the title of make it faster

 

Also I have had it for like 2 weeks so I am sure they wont take it back, just got my 3rd tank of fuel

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Any auto parts store will read the code for free.

 

Could be something simple like a over boost because it got colder out, or the gas cap is not on enough clicks. You need to make it click 3 or 4 times.

 

Learn how to check the oil and keep it topped off.

 

You'll want to read the stickys at the tops of the forums here to get a idea what your in for and how to keep these cars happy.

 

You can reset simple codes by turning the car off/on four times.

 

With a little care these cars offer great bang for the buck, I think you'll like it better then your truck.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Get your money back from that warranty. They are seriously useless in our cars. Fighting with the company is a waste of time. They'll just deny every claim you have. Mostly because it's a turbo. When my engine went the first time it was the day after I brought it home. The warranty company said there was an "aftermarket" turbo, and denied the claim. There was no after market turbo 😒 so get that money back because you can get it back now and not later. Spend it on maybe a stock 1 tune. That fixes a lot of issues with the car. Good luck. We're here to help.
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Nearly all 50 states have a 30-day "Cooling Off" period, in which the dealer is legally required to take the car back and return you any monies paid.

 

If you don't want a go-fast-drop-money car, this isn't it, I'm afraid you'll want to find something else if you're looking for cost-efficient reliability.

 

Really? The salesman told you "no turbo", even though you correctly identified a TMIC??? What a douche.

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He says above that he's looking for Subaru reliability, which, we both know firsthand, is not the GTs. So, yes, it sounds like he's gonna trade it in for an NA 5th gen.

 

Yes I do love my GT it has been a blast to drive and looks very nice. I purchased it not knowing it was a turbo car. ( I thought it was but sales man said no only the WRX) They swear that the warranty they sold me will cover everything drive train for 5 years 100k but from what I read here that is probably not true. With my new position at work I cant afford to have the car down at the shop or that needs so much TLC.

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Yes I do love my GT it has been a blast to drive and looks very nice. I purchased it not knowing it was a turbo car. ( I thought it was but sales man said no only the WRX) They swear that the warranty they sold me will cover everything drive train for 5 years 100k but from what I read here that is probably not true. With my new position at work I cant afford to have the car down at the shop or that needs so much TLC.

 

It sucks to turn you away from the car, but, if we're honest, we'd like to think we do what's right for the car AND it's driver, even if in this case, it means separating you for good.

 

If the guy lied about it being a turbo, what else do you think he'd lie about?

 

A 5-year, 100k warranty? Ha! No one can stand behind something like that on a ten-year-old turbo car! Dollars to donuts says the fineprint specifically excludes all the important shit like the turbo and the motor -

 

You're making the right choice, OP. The 5th Gens (2010+) are nice, comfortable cars with less miles, more technology, and a much better reliability record.

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Also, be strong when you take it back. If you lead with "Well, I read on the internet.." they're gonna give you a hard time and basically try to discount our collective experience and actual car knowledge.

 

Don't fall for it.

 

Jab the keys right in to the chest of their poorly ironed shirts and drive home the point that they lied to you from the start and that they're lucky you're being so nice about it now. :D

 

Get your money back for the warranty, and then whatever car you choose, don't let it out of your sight while it's on their lot, not even for a "PDI/cleaning" -- if they can lie to you, they're not above sabotaging your next vehicle after you've declined to pay them for nothing.

 

Good luck!

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Thanks I seen one at the store last night and pulled up next to it looked much bigger also. I hope some younger person buys the one I am trading back in. Its in near flawless condition and would be a great car to do all the up grades and fix's.
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