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Hi Folks. Quick question, has anyone used Sea Foam or Royal Purple Max Clean in their engines? Just curious as to the effectiveness of the products. I always use Sunoco 91 octane and run Royal Purple 5-30 every 4-5,000 miles. Car has 210,500 and doesn't burn oil but goes thru about half a qt. between changes. I'm thinking it might need an cleaning.

Thanks

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Hi Folks. Quick question, has anyone used Sea Foam or Royal Purple Max Clean in their engines? Just curious as to the effectiveness of the products. I always use Sunoco 91 octane and run Royal Purple 5-30 every 4-5,000 miles. Car has 210,500 and doesn't burn oil but goes thru about half a qt. between changes. I'm thinking it might need an cleaning.

Thanks

 

Don't bother. Just check the turbo screen. It it is clean, leave it alone.

"Belief does not make truth. Evidence makes truth. And belief does not make evidence."
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You have 210+ kmiles :eek: :eek:. Has the engine every been rebuilt? If not, congrats!!

Half a quart is not that much at all between OCI. These cars use oil. So I'd say you're fine. Other people might chime in to answer your questions.

btw, why are you using 91 octane and not 93? You're living at sea level-ish right?

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I'm original owner, turbo's been done by dealer the second time at 204,000 (under warranty, long story) with full flush, pan dropped, etc. all the bells and whistles. But, due to high mileage, they first checked compression, 140 all cylinders and valve leakage at 3%, 4%, 6% and 6%. So they did the replacement.

Right now I plan on changing to an Invidia up-pipe very soon. That could have been the issue but dealer said "nah". I've replaced the valve cover gaskets and had a bad radiator in the last 30,000 so that's about all. I use a magnetic oil plug and check the old oil. The car is not "stock" because like all on this site, anything that needs to be replaced is usually replaced with a better aftermarket part, Kartboy, AVO, Whiteline, Perrin, HPS, etc, they're all on my car.

I don't feel like spending the extra for 93 oct. and at 61 years old, my right foot only goes down hard when playing around, just not in that big a rush to get anywhere anymore.

All you gentlemen remind me of myself 40 years ago, doing same thing to Triumph TR-250's, 2 MGB's, a 67 Elan. It's great to see all the joy people here have in their cars and the willingness to share and help one and all. My thanks.

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I'm original owner, turbo's been done by dealer the second time at 204,000 (under warranty, long story) with full flush, pan dropped, etc. all the bells and whistles. But, due to high mileage, they first checked compression, 140 all cylinders and valve leakage at 3%, 4%, 6% and 6%. So they did the replacement.

Right now I plan on changing to an Invidia up-pipe very soon. That could have been the issue but dealer said "nah". I've replaced the valve cover gaskets and had a bad radiator in the last 30,000 so that's about all. I use a magnetic oil plug and check the old oil. The car is not "stock" because like all on this site, anything that needs to be replaced is usually replaced with a better aftermarket part, Kartboy, AVO, Whiteline, Perrin, HPS, etc, they're all on my car.

I don't feel like spending the extra for 93 oct. and at 61 years old, my right foot only goes down hard when playing around, just not in that big a rush to get anywhere anymore.

All you gentlemen remind me of myself 40 years ago, doing same thing to Triumph TR-250's, 2 MGB's, a 67 Elan. It's great to see all the joy people here have in their cars and the willingness to share and help one and all. My thanks.

 

*clap . . clap . . . clap .. *

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*clap . . clap . . . clap .. *

 

^:whore:

 

You see? there are some LGTs that are running strong! That's awesome.

 

I am surprised though that your engine is running OK using 91 instead of 93 without a tune.

 

Actually I am not sure how people with our car (stock) do it in California knowing there's no 93 there..

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I'm original owner, turbo's been done by dealer the second time at 204,000 (under warranty, long story) with full flush, pan dropped, etc. all the bells and whistles. But, due to high mileage, they first checked compression, 140 all cylinders and valve leakage at 3%, 4%, 6% and 6%. So they did the replacement.

Right now I plan on changing to an Invidia up-pipe very soon. That could have been the issue but dealer said "nah". I've replaced the valve cover gaskets and had a bad radiator in the last 30,000 so that's about all. I use a magnetic oil plug and check the old oil. The car is not "stock" because like all on this site, anything that needs to be replaced is usually replaced with a better aftermarket part, Kartboy, AVO, Whiteline, Perrin, HPS, etc, they're all on my car.

I don't feel like spending the extra for 93 oct. and at 61 years old, my right foot only goes down hard when playing around, just not in that big a rush to get anywhere anymore.

All you gentlemen remind me of myself 40 years ago, doing same thing to Triumph TR-250's, 2 MGB's, a 67 Elan. It's great to see all the joy people here have in their cars and the willingness to share and help one and all. My thanks.

 

OOOOOOH, MGB's, TR's and best yet an Elan!!!!!!!! Another senior who still remembers shellac on the gaskets:lol:

"Belief does not make truth. Evidence makes truth. And belief does not make evidence."
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^:whore:

 

You see? there are some LGTs that are running strong! That's awesome.

 

I am surprised though that your engine is running OK using 91 instead of 93 without a tune.

 

Actually I am not sure how people with our car (stock) do it in California knowing there's no 93 there..

 

Change the oil and filter frequently, and you don't need to run the motor to the redline. Simple:lol: It's faster if you shift it at the peak torque curve:lol:

"Belief does not make truth. Evidence makes truth. And belief does not make evidence."
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Change the oil and filter frequently, and you don't need to run the motor to the redline. Simple:lol: It's faster if you shift it at the peak torque curve:lol:

 

First two parts of advice are solid. I'm sure you meant to say that it's faster if you shift at peak HP. That way you land at or near peak torque when you engage the next cog (with the right gearing, at least).

LW's spec. B / YT / IG
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First two parts of advice are solid. I'm sure you meant to say that it's faster if you shift at peak HP. That way you land at or near peak torque when you engage the next cog (with the right gearing, at least).

 

Check you Subies gear ratio.;)

"Belief does not make truth. Evidence makes truth. And belief does not make evidence."
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Which one? I've had about a dozen different Subaru gear sets over the years :lol:

 

It's faster if you shift it at the peak torque curve :lol:

 

If you shift at peak torque that's like 4k RPM. That puts you at ~2kish in the next gear. In no way is that faster than shifting at peak HP (6k for most people here), and landing at peak torque (4k).

 

And the best Subaru gear ratios, IMO, are the JDM STi 6MTs, second to the spec B 6MT. Some of the JDM 5MT boxes have crazy tight ratios with a high final drive, too. Impossible crusing on the highway but tons of fun.

LW's spec. B / YT / IG
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