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which tranny?


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Hi All,

 

Newbie to the forum, just added the second subie to the stable, but she 's a bit ill. It didn't come with a transmission.

 

From what i have learned here so far, and what I have checked out on the car, it's a 1995 legacy LS with a BK in the vin #

 

 

Questions: it has the 2.2 non turbo engine, what model years will direct fit to this car? Will i need to swap out my rear diff to fit the new tranny to fix any gear ratio issues? Will a trans from a 2.5 work?

 

My wife drives the 99 leg. outback and we love it. learning about the 95 will give me more confidence in tackling issues with hers as it ages. The 95, if it comes together, ( I have virtually nothing into it thus far) is to become my daughter's when I am not using it ;)

 

Thanks in advance for any help!

 

PJ

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Id really like to stay with the auto trans since my daughter is just beginning to drive and shifting manually is just on less complication at this point. Also to go manual I would need to hang a clutch pedal.

 

I'm looking at possibly getting a 96 legacy LSI with the 4EAT but not sure if it is 2.2 or 2.5 . I assume 2.5 since it is stated that it has over heating issues. (head gaskets?)

 

If I were to pick that up, and if I understand correctly, even if there were to be a change in gear ratio between the years this could be resolved by changing out the rear diff as well? would the trans off a 2.5 bolt up to a 2.2? are there any complications with the electronics I need to be aware of? :(

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auto trans that will work:

legacy, 95 - 98, w/ ej22, L, LS, brighton

impreza, 93 - 98, w/ ej22 or ej18,

 

 

you CAN NOT use an auto trans from a ej25 car. (unless you swap the matching rear diff.)

no outback

no GT

no LSi

no Forester

no WRX

 

I'm looking at possibly getting a 96 legacy LSI with the 4EAT but not sure if it is 2.2 or 2.5

96 LSi came with the ej25 and the auto trans only.

 

any of these auto trasn will bolt in and run fine.

but the matching rear diff is a must.

 

i do not recommend putting a 2.5L auto trans intot a 2.2L car.

the speedo will be off by about 8%.

 

plus there are a gozillion suabru auto trans in the salvage yards that will work.

and they are pretty cheap.

 

http://www.car-part.com

sort by zip code to see what is close.

shipping will add about $150 to the price.

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Is the speedo being off a cased by the different gear ratio, tire size, drive gear in the tranny computer, etc etc ? Supposing I were to swap the trans and diff together, is there a way to re calibrate the speedo?

 

I understand the need to have matching ratios for the front and back axles, we dont want to try dragging one axle or pushing the other. (like that would actually happen ;-) )

 

I know, alot of newbie questions but every answer brings enlightenment on the subject.

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Is the speedo being off a cased by the different gear ratio, tire size, drive gear in the tranny computer, etc etc

 

wheel size has to match the speedo drive gears in the trans.

there are 3 sets of drive gears for the 3 different tire sizes in the 90s,

205/70/15 = outback and forester

185/70/14 = lego L, LS, brighton and impreza

205/55/16 = legacy GT

 

but i say again,

why buy a trans that requires you to swap the rear diff,

when you can buy one that is an exact match?

 

 

http://www.car-part.com

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Johnegg

I value your responses more than you know. Finding specific answers to specific questions is invaluable. And I tend to get a bit obsessive on a subject at times. Right now it's Subarus

 

As for why I'm considering swapping trans AND diff, If I can pick up a whole parts car, it would address a number of other minor parts issues I may come across along the way for alot less $$$ The car I picked up has been sitting for a couple of years in Northern Minnesota with out a tranny so I am sure there are a few minor parts missing and if i score a 2.5 with head gasket issues,I can get some experience safely before tackling my wife's '99 outback and maybe get away with just a motor swap when the time comes.

 

I may have a lead on an inexpensive 95 impreza trans though, I would not have thought to look there had it not been for your response.

THANKS!

PJ

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ok now I am more than a bit ticked off!

 

I pick up a transmission from a 95 impreza as recommended by another forum member would be compatible and while every thing looks right, I get it home to discover that the front output shafts are a female spline and my cv half shafts are also a female spline meaning that I must have the wrong transmission.

 

It would seem that i need to have a male output shaft on the trans to make this work.

Is this something that can be corrected or am i now sitting with and emptier wallet and a tranny I can not use?

 

I dont have the origional trans from the car to refer to. will Half shafts from an impreza (male inboard and out board ends) mate up with the hubs on a 95 legacy?

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you need the axle stub shafts that stick out of the trans, and the half shaft fits on to.

 

they pop into the trans and are held by a cir-clip.

 

but since you do not have the old trans ......

 

call the yard where you got the trans and tell them you need the stub shafts.

any stubs 92 - 99 will work, lego or impreza or forester.

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Thanks again John, you are a voice from the void that seems to have answers to my newbie questions. My blood pressure seems to be coming back down.

 

Ok, enough butt kissing.

 

I have the original cv shafts to the car but I am not sure if they go all the way into the diff retainer and ride against the face of the oil seal? or do the stub shafts do all of the sealing and the cv shaft only contacts the half shaft itself

 

Would i be correct in thinking that i could swap out the retainers for the correct ones form a legacy if there is a difference? If this issue is solved that easily it would be sweet as hell.

 

Poking around a bit on the forum and other locations on line, it seems to be as easy as unscrewing one retainer and screwing in the new one while counting the number of turns to set the preload on the bearing(?)

 

Sorry for all the crazy questions, I'm just trying to get a solid visualization of things so that I don't seriously bork this up.

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the stub shafts do all of the sealing and the cv shaft only contacts the stub (half) shaft itself
this.

 

Would i be correct in thinking that i could swap out the retainers for the correct ones form a legacy if there is a difference? If this issue is solved that easily it would be sweet as hell.
DO NOT remove or replace the retainers.

you will regret it.

when i said the stub shafts ''pop'' in i meant it.

you insert the stub shaft and give it a whack.

ideally with a piece of wood between the hammer ans the shaft.

the cir-clip pops into place and the shaft is set.

 

the slavage yard used a pry bar to ''pop'' the stub shafts out of the trans rather than driving the roll pin out of the inner cup.

it is easier and quicker,

but it is not better.

 

Poking around a bit on the forum and other locations on line, it seems to be as easy as unscrewing one retainer and screwing in the new one while counting the number of turns to set the pre-load on the bearing(?)
you do not need to do this.

do not mess with the retainer ring.

 

call the yard, the stub shafts are still attached to the half shafts, the axles, they removed .

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Unfortunately for me, I dont have any info on what yard sold the trans. I purchased it from a private party and it's the way he got it. Also that guy is 90 miles away, literally.

 

The good news for me is, i only need to locate a set of stub shafts. honestly I was not looking forward to messing with the retainers. i had bad images going through my head about getting them set right again. trust me, i wont be foolin'wit 'em.

 

Thanks again for the advice, i think you have kept me out of trouble. I'll post updates on the progress of the "cheap green machine" as they happen.

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