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Yeah I was thinking about getting a Cobb access port and do you need any extra installs to run stage 2?

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

 

Don't waste your money.

 

E-tune is $150, cable is $15. Software is open source and free. Can't beat it. I have done both and wish I knew about open source before buying the APv2 (it's since been sold and I got a custom open source tune).

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Yeah I was thinking about getting a Cobb access port and do you need any extra installs to run stage 2?

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

 

You can skip the accessport if you get the cable... THe AP is nice if you have the extra coin though.

 

In regards to what you need on an 05 to go stage 2... Up-pipe and a downpipe... And a tune.

 

Your stock BPV will hold fine in all likelihood. I wouldn't bother swapping it out unless it's failing. Same for the exhaust. You wont see much if any gains at all with a new cat back exhaust; though it will enhance the Subaru rumble :) .

 

Other mods worth mentioning would be to possibly bullet proof your TMIC or replace it with a new/aftermarket one, as the end tanks can fail under the stage 2 boost in some instances (search for bullet proofing). I would leave your fueling alone at this point (though a drop in fuel pump would be a nice bump in reliability if you have the money).

 

Make sure you dial in the handling aspects as well if you go stage 2. Aftermarket endlinks and sway bars (front and rear on each), really tighten the car up and make it handle much better.

 

Banjo filter removal/maintenance is also a key element to these cars, as are oil changes. Stay away from mobil 1.

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Also, don't spend ANY money on performance until it's running right.

 

Understand what and how to datalog and get some good logs. That will help you understand what the car is doing and if it's in good shape to tune. You might be able to identify bad vacuum lines or leaks in the system just by watching the Learning View parameters.

 

FWIW, I used Mobil 1 5w30 and it worked fine. I run Shell Rotella T6 now. Buy it on sale at Tractor Supply and you can get it as cheap as $13-16/gallon.

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Just ordered two of these hopefully that's it

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Check the banjo bolt filter on the back of the passenger side head. Even if it is only slightly clogged it will throw the code and could cause oil starvation to the turbo. You should clean it, or toss it.

 

I used to have my car worked on by a local independent shop who replaced the OCV, but I still got the code after they replaced it. A short while later the turbo started whining, and I replaced it before it blew.

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While you're doing the passenger side head, reach back and feel for the turbo oil line. The banjo bolt is in the middle of this line, screws into the head. Grab a towel and plug the hole when you take out the bolt.

 

You'll need a small sharp object, like a seal puller, (basic kit can be had from Harbor Freight for like, $6.) to pull out the screen.

 

Take that shit out and toss it in the trash.

 

Put the bolt back.

 

Drive.

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