Brickle Posted May 26, 2014 Share Posted May 26, 2014 Hey guys, I bought an '05 Legacy GT off of a good friend of mine recently. My friend bought it for a RIDICULOUSLY low price from a dude that didn't maintain it correctly and blew the turbo. The car has a brand new VF40 in it now, but it still needs a little love. The car has 82k miles on it and is in wonderful shape from everything that I've seen. It runs very well, and I'm absolutely in love with it. Even if it is an automatic Before my friend bolted up the new turbo, he pulled out the banjo filter closest to the turbo, so that makes me feel a little better. Today, my friend and I, (i know very little about cars so he's teaching me...), spent several hours installing a new catless COBB Up Pipe that I bought for it, because I wasn't about to let the cat in the stock up blow up my car. HOWEVER, one of the main things worrying me is the p0021 code I got when I started driving it recently. After all the research I've done, this problem could either be a timing belt issue or an issue with my Oil Flow Control Valve being bad, as well as the banjo filter on the driver side. I haven't noticed a rough idle at all, and the car drives fine. Seems to still have plenty of power. Most of the people that get this code claim to have rough idles and a loss of power, or just weird performance in general, but I don't seem to be getting any of that. I'm not sure what to think of it, or what to do really... On top of that, the car seems to run hot. The temp guage is usually right in the middle, but the radiator fans are on quite often, so that worries me. I'm going to be driving the car from WA to TN soon and I want to make absolutely sure the car is in tip-top shape before I drive it 4000 miles across the country. I don't really know enough about cars to feel comfortable doing anything to the car without being guided in the right direction first, so I figured I'd make a post on here and ask a few questions. I love my LGT so far, and I have a lot of plans for it. I just need to make sure everything is running correctly before I put any performance enhancing mods on the car. And I have a whole lot to learn! Swapping out that up pipe was a pretty good starting point Thanks guys. Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 26, 2014 Share Posted May 26, 2014 The banjo filter is not in the banjo bolt closest to the turbo, it's on the back of the head. What does your oil look like, clean, any metal in it ? The temp gauge reads just a bit below half way in these cars normally. The fans should cycle. Have you burped the coolant system after the turbo install ? Jack up the right front corner high as you can. pull the turbo coolant tank cap. squeeze the top radiator hose and watch for air bubble in the tank top of as needed. Now start the car with up up, open the heater and wait for the fans to cycle, top off tank as need and squeeze the hose Carry coolant with you for couple of day's just in case. For the p0021 you may want to pick up a can of motor flush and use it for 5-8 minutes before you change the oil and filter. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 26, 2014 Share Posted May 26, 2014 What's the background of the car, sounds like is was only driven for short drives. These cars don't do well being driven for short periods. You may want to run a few can of fuel system cleaner there is some can with B7 in it's name thats pretty good. You may also want to take it on a long drive like an hour to make sure it runs well. Before winter you'll want to replace the o-rings between the intake manifold and the TGV's when you see the new orange ones you'll understand why the old ones cause a vacuum leak when its cold out. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oaklandmiLGT Posted May 26, 2014 Share Posted May 26, 2014 I dont have a lot of experience or knowledge in this, im just speculating here. but id be hesitant to use motor flush, if it dislodges all the material you want to clean out, it may be too much material in your oil system which may cause a passage to clog. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 26, 2014 Share Posted May 26, 2014 I'm thinking the oil system is not in that bad of shape. a couple quick oil changes after the flush will also help. Subaru sells a motor flush for $20. at the parts counter at the dealership. Another thing I did last year was to replace both radiator caps, just because of age. You have a long trip coming up plan ahead. Do you have AAA ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brickle Posted May 26, 2014 Author Share Posted May 26, 2014 Thanks for the replies. I do know for a fact that my friend pulled out the banjo filter, even if I don't know exactly where it is myself. I have the nasty filter in my car somewhere ;D. During the process of swapping out the turbo, my friend wound up changing the oil 3 times just to make absolutely sure there weren't any leaks or shavings everywhere. The oil looks very clean and the oil level hasn't changed since I got it. I haven't dropped the oil pan to check for shavings yet however, as I'm not really sure how to... I'm a delivery driver at Pizza Hut, so the car is driven quite a lot. I really haven't noticed any issues with it, other than the bad wheel bearing on the rear passenger side, the car seems to run fine. Not really noticing a rough idle, car has plenty of pickup. The p0021 that I am getting is VERY intermittent. It will come on randomly every now and then and then go away shortly after. I have never burped the coolant system, I'll have to give that a shot. Should I remove the driver side OCV and clean it? I do have 24/7 roadside assistance, yes Thanks again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 26, 2014 Share Posted May 26, 2014 Might be good to clean that OCV. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brickle Posted May 26, 2014 Author Share Posted May 26, 2014 Alright cool I'll probably do that tomorrow then. Also, I definitely feel like dropping the oil pan is a good idea to check for shavings and all that, I know where it is but it looks like I'm going to have to remove the crossbar to get it off. Is that the case? Or can I get away with jacking the motor up an inch or two? Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 26, 2014 Share Posted May 26, 2014 If you've been driving the car a lot and there no issues with metal in the oil, I'm not sure I'd drop the pan. you can by lifting the engine a little, remove one bolt from the dog bone to do that (brace to the firewall). If you decide to drop the pan. The pan can be a PITA to get off around the oil pick up. I remember removing my pan on the engine stand. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RallyMachine Posted May 27, 2014 Share Posted May 27, 2014 If you're driving 4000 miles in one trip, you will definitely need to bring quarts of oil to top off with along the way (you WILL use it!). (Can't believe I beat Max Capacity to it ) Just got back from 500 mile round trip and I used about half a quart, but that was with a few 100+mph pulls along the way (hehe). Just be observant of your oil level and you will be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted May 27, 2014 Share Posted May 27, 2014 Another Ptown LGT? Nice! I grew up in Puyallup - Have you taken the car to PIA to get inspected yet? There's only so much stuff you can or should do by yourself with the instruction of the forums. If you want to be sure of the the condition of your motor, get in there and let them take a look at it -- They won't steer you wrong and they won't tell you no porkpies. A new OCV is about ~$90 on Amazon from Heuberger -- Worthwhile investment since they're really the heart of the AVCS and oiling system. Very easy to change, and they're a considered a wear item. So unless you can confirm that they've been changed in the last 75k, you should really think about dropping for those. If you're going to do the oil pan, I've got a set of studs and nuts I can hook you up with, just lmk when you're ready. Do you know why the turbo failed the first time around? That's a big issue right there, and if it spit pieces everywhere into your engine, you're gonna have a bad time. Good luck, and welcome! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brickle Posted May 27, 2014 Author Share Posted May 27, 2014 Thanks man! Yeah PIA is awesome. I took it there before I bought it and had them check it out. I'm gonna do the OCV very soon then. I just took it to a friend's house today because it was making an odd sound under full boost, sounded like an airflow issue, not metal on metal or anything. Turns out, when my friend that sold me the car swapped the turbo out, the turbo inlet hose shredded around the turbo side. He put a rubber boot on as a temporary fix, but the boot was a little too big, so there wasn't a tight seal and the inlet hose slipped off the turbo a bit. We wrestled it back on there after removing the valve cover, but I'm still getting a weird sound at full boost. Definitely seems like it's due to that rubber boot on the end of the inlet hose not fitting very tightly over the turbo. I guess air is just leaking out of that hose, causing a pretty big loss of power and a weird noise. I need to either put a new boot on that fits more snug, or shell out the cash for a new inlet hose. I definitely don't want to be driving around with an air leak like that. Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 27, 2014 Share Posted May 27, 2014 You want to replace that with a OEM intake hose. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brickle Posted May 27, 2014 Author Share Posted May 27, 2014 Where can I find an OEM replacement? Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 27, 2014 Share Posted May 27, 2014 Click on the Vendor link on the blue bar at the top of every page here, the same bar you use to get your "user CP". look for fredbeans or heuberger both sell at 25% off. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted May 27, 2014 Share Posted May 27, 2014 Or check the Classifieds for a used Perrin unit -- Nice piece to have if you think you're gonna upgrade more stuff later - Should run about $150-175. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 27, 2014 Share Posted May 27, 2014 IMO the inlet is one of those "stay stock and stay happy" things. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RallyMachine Posted May 27, 2014 Share Posted May 27, 2014 Yeah fitment of the Perrin unit is a bit questionable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike07LGT Posted May 28, 2014 Share Posted May 28, 2014 If you're driving 4000 miles in one trip, you will definitely need to bring quarts of oil to top off with along the way (you WILL use it!). (Can't believe I beat Max Capacity to it ) Just got back from 500 mile round trip and I used about half a quart, but that was with a few 100+mph pulls along the way (hehe). Just be observant of your oil level and you will be fine. I guess it depends on milage on the car... I use no oil and im at 65k on the dial in my 07. I drive my car more than most of you I promise as I use it for my job. i check it every single fill up and have never had to add oil.. maybe im the lucky one 03 WRB WRX (RIP) 04 JBP STI (sold) 07 DGM Legacy GT (RIP) 12 OBP STI (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brickle Posted May 28, 2014 Author Share Posted May 28, 2014 I definitely plan on bringing a few quarts just in case haha. I'm also going to do my best to change the oil every 3000 miles, just to be extra safe. I'll probably go with an OEM inlet hose for now if I can find one. I haven't had any luck finding one on any of the vendor sites. I guess I'll make a post on here to see if anyone here has one for sale What do you guys recommend I do in order to get the car ready for the trip? Since the car has 82k miles on it and sat for a year and a half before I got it, should I do the timing belt now? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 28, 2014 Share Posted May 28, 2014 That's a good idea, the belt and tensioners are close to 10 y/o. Give the radiator hoses a good inspection too. 10y/o is the key here. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brickle Posted May 28, 2014 Author Share Posted May 28, 2014 Alright I will do that. The timing belt could be giving me that p0021 code too I guess. I'll have to get that checked out asap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 28, 2014 Share Posted May 28, 2014 When I did my 1st timing belt I used a Dayco belt and kit from the auto parts store. also replaced the two drive belts, water pump and thermostat. I use Prestone and Peak Global for coolant. You know about PB Blaster and anti-seize compound ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brickle Posted May 28, 2014 Author Share Posted May 28, 2014 I have heard PB blaster definitely comes in handy but I have not used it. May need to pick up a bottle Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 28, 2014 Share Posted May 28, 2014 You'll learn its your best friend. When it comes time for the wheel bearings and removing the rotors, let it do it job. I have also leaned to put anti seize on the 8mm x 1.25 bolts used to back the rotors off the hubs, after you've sprayed the threads in the rotor with PB. Also spray a little on the joint where the rotor sit on the hub. For the timing belt, read to DIY I have linked my thread to that too. Spray the back of the timing belt cover screws with PB. Lately a few guys have had trouble getting the cover screws out. The drive belt adjusting pulley bolts can use a spray too. Be careful with the alternator mount bolt, I did break one once. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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