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door handle removal on a 2005 lgt


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I am having issues with the drivers side door handle on the outside and have been searching for step by step instructions to remove the handle itself. I have removed the door card, stripped down the plastic seal (held on with tar stuff), removed the 2 10mm bolts holding on the handle (1 holds lock, other holds on a metal plate of some sort) and I am afraid to dig any deeper. My fear is that I will damage a lock or handle linkage beyond repair. It is a pretty tight squeeze in there and it seems like there should be an easy way to remove the handle but I cant figure it out. Does this job require removal of the interior metal (color matched) panel that encloses the window mechanism and door catch? PLEASE DIRECT ME TO THE PICS if they exist and I will share a cold one with ya! I dont want my LGT to turn ghetto by having to open the drivers door from the passenger side. Thanks.
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I've replaced my handle about 4 yrs ago, it is a total pain in the ass to replace. From what I remember, I did take the window out to have more access room, didn't have to remove any metal pieces. The rods should be held on with clips, and you should be able to press them out by hand. Once the bolts are off, it's just a matter of wiggling it around to get it to slide out.

 

Sorry, I don't have any pics of it.

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SO.......

I decided to dive in and take a crack at removing the handle and door actuator on my LGT last week. What I discovered was kind of frustrating. First of all, removing the actuator is a BITCH, but is made somewhat easier by removing the 12mm bolt holding on the window guide in the lower left portion of the door. I also disconnected the push rod that connects the handle to the actuator as well as the rod connecting the lock to the actuator.

Once parts were out and I could see what was going on, I discovered that the white nylon "spacer" that fits in the top of the actuator, where the door handle rod connects, had come loose as the male fitting was worn. A couple of small zip ties were attached to hold the fitting in place, and the problem was solved. Took about an hour of my time to accomplish the repair and probably saved myself $300 to have it fixed by the stealership. They quoted me $195 labor (1.5hrs from Wilde subaru and Subaru city of milwaukee) plus $108 for the actuator. Glad it is fixed and once again thank all the contributing members of this forum for the helpful tips and guidance.

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Yea, I ended up having my buddies body shop do the job, I think I paid $120 for them to paint and install it. Plus the new latch

 

Well worth the money.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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