dahoseman Posted April 25, 2014 Share Posted April 25, 2014 I did a search and didn't find satisfying answers regarding replacing the full set of rear bushings. Do they all make a noticeable difference? Which ones make the biggest difference? Are there any bushings that don't really matter that much? I don't want to waste money that won't make a difference, but I would also like to replace anything that could be reasonably worth it while the rear end is disassembled. For background, I have a 2005 OBXT 5MT with engine and suspension mods that raise it a bit, now closing in on 190,000 miles. I had initially replaced all front-end bushings with Whiteline, as well as Whiteline sway bars and King Springs all the way around (overload in rear). I abuse my car pretty well and the miles have added up. I will be replacing the rear struts and wheel bearings soon (both are shot). The rear end definitely feels loose recently and I would like to fix that. I'm thinking I should go ahead and replace all of the rear bushings while it's taken apart. I have had good experience with Whiteline so far. All of the front bushings are Whiteline, so I decided to stick with them by default. If anyone has other better or cheaper suggestions, I'm all ears. Here is the list of bushings for consideration: 1. KTA124 - Rear Control arm - complete lower front & rear arm assembly (camber/toe correction) -I've already decided that I'm buying this set. No help needed there. 2. W63394 - Control arm - lower rear outer bushing -My understanding is that the KTA124 kit essentially requires this because it doesn't include a lower rear outer bushing with the kit. 3. W63396 - Control arm - upper inner bushing 4a. W63397 - Control arm - upper outer bushing 4b. KCA399 - Control arm - upper outer bushing (camber correction) -From eye-balling my upper control arm bushings, they're pretty well dried, cracked, and worn. I think it may be a good idea to replace them, but I don't know if it makes much of a difference. Does anyone have any input on the W63397 vs the KCA399? For some reason, the KCA399 is cheaper, although it does the same thing and allows for additional camber correction. 5. W63398 - Trailing arm - lower front bushing -Any thoughts on replacing these? From eye-balling mine, it seems like it has all of 190,000 miles on it and is well worn. 6a. KDT906 - Diff mount in cradle bushing 6b. KDT927 - Diff mount in cradle insert bushing -The diff bushings seem like the least bang-for-buck and least noticeable of the bushings. Any thoughts on how useful these are to replace? Thoughts on the full bushing vs. the insert that sort of acts as 'filler' for the spaces in the stock bushing? 7. KDT905 - Rear Differential Support Outrigger Bushing -Once again, I'm guessing I wouldn't notice much difference with these replaced vs. current, but feel free to fill me in with personal accounts. If there's anything else that I might have missed, I'm all ears. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ERLoft Posted April 25, 2014 Share Posted April 25, 2014 Hey Steve. Definitely just get the bushing inserts for the rear differential. I bought both the mount and outrigger full bushes - then I realized how hard it was going to be to put them in. Went with the inserts instead, which I still had to get help from Mike & Todd @ Infamous to get in due to a frozen bolt... W63398 is also a bitch to replace. I have the bushing sitting in my garage now waiting on me to be motivated enough to do that replacement. My press probably won't be up to the job, so I'll likely need to take the trailing arms somewhere and have the old pressed out and the new pressed in... Not sure about the upper arm - I haven't done the bushes there yet. I wouldn't think you need any camber correction up top if you're running the KTA124 set down low. That set gives you all the range of adjustment you'll ever need. 2013 █S4 - Glacier White - DSG - B&O - Tech Package - Sports Diff - Napa - RS4 Grille - Stasis Exhaust - APR Intake - KW Variant 1 - Stern Control Arms - CR-15 - Stasis RSB - Moog Endlinks - PC Hyper Black Peelers - Deval Front Lip - ECS Rear Diffuser - Carbon Imports Ducktail - ECS Mirror Caps - Relak Paddle Extensions - Autostyle Floor Mats - LED Interior - V1 - Blackvue DR900s - [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobyscoodle Posted April 25, 2014 Share Posted April 25, 2014 I've had the KTA124 kit for awhile and love it, makes the rear feel more solid during mid-turn bumps, and you certainly don't need the additional camber adjustability the KCA399 provides. But, I have thought about running them both together with the top adjustment set to max negative, then set the actual camber with the bottom camber link from the 124 kit. I think that would allow you to squeeze at least an additional 10mm of tire behind the fender, if you're into that sort of thing. Just like ERLoft mentioned, the KDT906 is a major PITA to install, you need to remove the entire rear subframe to press out the old bushings, the KDT927 is much easier. I do recommend that along with the KDT905 though, they add to overall driveline stiffness and the rear diff stays much more solid during powerful shifts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discojon Posted April 25, 2014 Share Posted April 25, 2014 1. KTA124 - Rear Control arm - complete lower front & rear arm assembly (camber/toe correction) -I've already decided that I'm buying this set. No help needed there. I just installed the KTA124, very nice hardware. 2. W63394 - Control arm - lower rear outer bushing -My understanding is that the KTA124 kit essentially requires this because it doesn't include a lower rear outer bushing with the kit. You can reuse the oem bushing. The oem bushing will have to be pressed out to replace it with the WL piece. The trailing arm has to come off for this. 3. W63396 - Control arm - upper inner bushing Installing this and the outer tonight into a spec b alum upper link. Old bushings will have to be pressed out.4a. W63397 - Control arm - upper outer bushing See above 4b. KCA399 - Control arm - upper outer bushing (camber correction) -From eye-balling my upper control arm bushings, they're pretty well dried, cracked, and worn. I think it may be a good idea to replace them, but I don't know if it makes much of a difference. Does anyone have any input on the W63397 vs the KCA399? For some reason, the KCA399 is cheaper, although it does the same thing and allows for additional camber correction. I too noticed the price difference. Not sure why. Go with the W63397 if using the KTA124 lowers. 5. W63398 - Trailing arm - lower front bushing -Any thoughts on replacing these? From eye-balling mine, it seems like it has all of 190,000 miles on it and is well worn. Yep it's going to need replacing. Again has to be pressed out. 6a. KDT906 - Diff mount in cradle bushing 6b. KDT927 - Diff mount in cradle insert bushing -The diff bushings seem like the least bang-for-buck and least noticeable of the bushings. Any thoughts on how useful these are to replace? Thoughts on the full bushing vs. the insert that sort of acts as 'filler' for the spaces in the stock bushing? 7. KDT905 - Rear Differential Support Outrigger Bushing -Once again, I'm guessing I wouldn't notice much difference with these replaced vs. current, but feel free to fill me in with personal accounts. If there's anything else that I might have missed, I'm all ears. I can tell you from first hand experience that the KTA124, Alum Trailing arms, and all the Whiteline bushings (all in rear of car) greatly changed the feel of the car for the better. Everything is tighter, and the car responds great. I say go for it. and Don't be an idiot like me and take apart the parking break thinking you have to in order to get the hub out. You will need a 3 arm puller. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dahoseman Posted April 25, 2014 Author Share Posted April 25, 2014 All good advice. Thanks. I think I'll go ahead with most of those. I think I'll get the lower outer control arm bushing to complete the set for the control arms. I'll probably do the camber-correction bushing for the upper control arm...... it couldn't hurt. I think I'll get the cradle-insert bushings, but pass on the diff cradle and diff support bushings. So the lineup is: 1. KTA124 - Rear Control arm - complete lower front & rear arm assembly (camber/toe correction) 2. W63394 - Control arm - lower rear outer bushing 3. W63396 - Control arm - upper inner bushing 4. KCA399 - Control arm - upper outer bushing (camber correction) 5. W63398 - Trailing arm - lower front bushing 6. KDT927 - Diff mount in cradle insert bushing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobyscoodle Posted April 25, 2014 Share Posted April 25, 2014 Do not get the diff insert bushings without the bushings for the diff xmember/cradle. I've done these separately on several cars so I'm familiar with the differences individually, they work together but the cradle/xmember bushings easily make 75-85% of the difference with maybe around 20% the inserts. Do both or neither IMO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobyscoodle Posted April 25, 2014 Share Posted April 25, 2014 And where does W63394 go if you're using the KTA124 kit? Pretty sure that bushing is for one of the arms you remove. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discojon Posted April 26, 2014 Share Posted April 26, 2014 It is the rearmost bushing in the trailing arm. OEM is pressed in, whiteline is insert with crush tube. Still needed with KTA124 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discojon Posted April 26, 2014 Share Posted April 26, 2014 W63394 http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/26/be2egu6e.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plainstomper Posted December 27, 2014 Share Posted December 27, 2014 OP did you end up doing these bushings? I am in the same situation as you and have been thinking about doing them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soarin Posted January 4, 2015 Share Posted January 4, 2015 This topic is exactly what I was looking for thank you for posting all of this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soarin Posted January 7, 2015 Share Posted January 7, 2015 Also what was the amount of time for OP's list of items 2 through 5 to do these bushings? Anyone have a ballpark idea? Is four hours about right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted January 8, 2015 Share Posted January 8, 2015 Also what was the amount of time for OP's list of items 2 through 5 to do these bushings? Anyone have a ballpark idea? Is four hours about right? 4 hours sounds about right. I think the book time might be between 4-5 hours though. I am unsure what the time is for the Rear UCA as I did that myself. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soarin Posted January 9, 2015 Share Posted January 9, 2015 I was thinking that cause I'm going through a shop for a bunch of stuff and for the rears I'll probably only do the upper control arm bushings because of KCA399 and the trailing arm if it's going out. I'm already planning for four hours for just that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.