rayeve Posted April 6, 2014 Share Posted April 6, 2014 Super-dump question, but here goes: How big a job is it for the dealer to change the rear shocks on on 05 N.A. Legacy Wagon? Do the the brake assemblies have to come all the way apart? How much of the suspension has to come apart (coils, etc.). My wife has about 130,000 miles on her Subie and the shocks have never been changed. I can't see any "cupping" on any of the 4 tries, but lately it seems like I a hear a lot more "clunks" from the road surface. Anyone make it past 130,000 miles without(!) needing new shocks? Many thanks, guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted April 6, 2014 Share Posted April 6, 2014 Super-dump question, but here goes: How big a job is it for the dealer to change the rear shocks on on 05 N.A. Legacy Wagon? Do the the brake assemblies have to come all the way apart? How much of the suspension has to come apart (coils, etc.). My wife has about 130,000 miles on her Subie and the shocks have never been changed. I can't see any "cupping" on any of the 4 tries, but lately it seems like I a hear a lot more "clunks" from the road surface. Anyone make it past 130,000 miles without(!) needing new shocks? Many thanks, guys. I wouldn't do it at the dealer. Figure on paying anywhere from $200-400 for the labor plus another $100-125 for an alignment afterward. With your milage you may also be looking at front LCA bushings (rear of the Front LCA) as they usually only last about 60k miles give or take. -Mike Paisan http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001. Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) |AIM: AZP Installs "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ERLoft Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 Rear struts (and struts in general) are easy - one bolt at the bottom, two inside at the top. You'd need a spring compressor to remove the strut itself from the entire assembly once it's out though. And a way to hold the strut top bolt in place while undoing the nut. (I personally use a long Allen wrench through a 17mm socket and vice grips on both the socket and Allen wrench, but that's probably a pretty ghetto way of doing it.) Brakes, sway bars, etc. don't need to be undone to make the changeout. I could remove a single strut assembly in 20-30 minutes including pulling out all the tools, getting the car up on jackstands, etc. As Mike says though, at that many miles, you're likely in need of new bushings all around. That gets trickier and much more labor intensive, although the bushings themselves are relatively inexpensive. 2013 █S4 - Glacier White - DSG - B&O - Tech Package - Sports Diff - Napa - RS4 Grille - Stasis Exhaust - APR Intake - KW Variant 1 - Stern Control Arms - CR-15 - Stasis RSB - Moog Endlinks - PC Hyper Black Peelers - Deval Front Lip - ECS Rear Diffuser - Carbon Imports Ducktail - ECS Mirror Caps - Relak Paddle Extensions - Autostyle Floor Mats - LED Interior - V1 - Blackvue DR900s - [sIGPIC][/sIGPIC] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluesuby Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 Getting at the rear struts in a sedan is fairly easy. In a wagon you're talking removal of a lot of trim pieces. For those installing Konis, I've heard of extreme measures such as cutting holes to reach the adjuster at the top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 Getting at the rear struts in a sedan is fairly easy. In a wagon you're talking removal of a lot of trim pieces. For those installing Konis, I've heard of extreme measures such as cutting holes to reach the adjuster at the top. The rear can be a PITA to adjust but when I had them in my wagon I just pulled up the rear floor if I needed to adjust it. Generally once you have them tuned the way you want them you are good to go. -Mike Paisan http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001. Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) |AIM: AZP Installs "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluesuby Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 True enough Mike, but most of us don't have your experience/knowledge. I bust about half the pop-its anytime I pull trim parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 True enough Mike, but most of us don't have your experience/knowledge. I bust about half the pop-its anytime I pull trim parts. Yeah generally I set my rear to ½ way from stiff to soft and adjusted to front to suit my needs. Only time I really pulled the rear was if I were doing a track event then I would pull it and make it full stiff. -Mike Paisan http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001. Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) |AIM: AZP Installs "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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