WhiteMonster06 Posted March 11, 2014 Share Posted March 11, 2014 Yeah never will it end once you begin. Stay stock or go big from the start and go stage2....then 3.....and so on and so on.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forcedinductiongt Posted March 11, 2014 Share Posted March 11, 2014 And there's no patch for quiting mod addiction...it's ruined lives LOL JK MOAR BOOOOOOOOST Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhiteMonster06 Posted March 11, 2014 Share Posted March 11, 2014 I know I'm up to 1psi per day...it's becoming a lifetime addiction. XD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forcedinductiongt Posted March 11, 2014 Share Posted March 11, 2014 It's safe to say the vf40 is a gateway drug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted March 11, 2014 Share Posted March 11, 2014 Safe to say so is this forum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
700watts Posted March 11, 2014 Share Posted March 11, 2014 I've gone somewhat big....once your there, it's like getting all dressed up with no where to go.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted March 11, 2014 Share Posted March 11, 2014 All - I have a 2009 Outback XT with 5-speed manual. I almost just replaced it with a 2014 2.5i Premium 6-speed (more legroom for more kids) but neither my wife nor I could get over the loss of power and amenities. Since I'm keeping it, I'm falling back in love with the idea of the car. With 48k miles, I'm out of warranty but still have a young car. I'd like some light modifications to improve drivability, maintain or improve reliability, and improve performance. In other words, maybe a stage 1 or 2 (max). I'm not sure how you arrived at improve reliability meant slapping some parts on your car. For many of the ppl giving you advice, you should read up their build threads to see how well they are doing with their mods. My favorite comment was the "I have no real world experience, you should listen to me" or something like that. You have kids? An accessport doesn't exactly fall in the list of things that "kid-proof" a car. If you don't want to mess with your car, then an accessport is not worth the effort. Visit one of the forum's vendor tuners and have them put on a tune that meets your needs (good gas mileage, a little more fun, and reliability). At the same time, while you are discussing your actual goals for the car (primary car - must always run), you can discuss mods that will improve reliability. A catback exhaust is not going to make for a quiet car. The stock system does well enough until you get into the upper end, at which point, you'll be in the 10k spend range. My motor turned 369wtq on a stock exhaust. Another thing about power is components fail at a faster rate. Tires wear at a faster rate. Brakes wear at a faster rate. I went 6 years on a stock tune & setup. Then I had my car rebuilt into the track toy that it is today. One of the criteria for that build was it had to go 50,000 miles without needing anything. I didn't want to mess with it, just drive it. We (tuner & me) spent alot of time working up a parts list that would survive the thrashing it was going to get. We adjusted the list to match my budget (>20k) and took off stuff that was nice to have but didn't affect reliability. I just had my 25k oil change & blackstone analysis. Everything is fine, although, the wear matches that of a well-abused car. In the intervening 25k miles, I replaced the transmission (5th gear disintegrated), upgraded the rear suspension for more camber adjustment, and bought lots of tires & brake pads/disks. However, the engine has been fine. My point is, if reliability is your chief concern, throwing a patchwork of parts at your car, is a good way to require the AAA premium membership. If that's your idea of a good time, then you are on the path to happiness. If not, I urge you to consider the source of the advice you are getting and temper it with the reality of your situation. If I were you, I'd do stage 0 at a vendor's shop - tune. The rest I'd leave until its needed. Upgrade things as they break with high-quality parts. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
700watts Posted March 11, 2014 Share Posted March 11, 2014 ^ he know what he speaks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drunkinmonk Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 I have the AVO mufflers on the OEM mid-pipe and my wife actually commented that she liked the way it sounds. It growls when you step on it but is quiet cruising the highway. Are those on an outback and if so where did you get them and how much? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kristian88 Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 Google Ok, so lets pretend I've searched this forum and googled the above questions (since that's what I did) and found lots of info for stage 2, but haven't found anything on stage 1 auto 0-60, or .25mi time/speeds. Further, lets pretend that the info out there was all for stage 2s, or for manual cars. Anyone have any actual info? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John J Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 Are those on an outback and if so where did you get them and how much? Almost. It is a LGT wagon and they were on the car when I bought it. The car also came with a DP, UP and an Access Port which I first played around with last weekend. I downloaded an updated OTS Stage 2 tune from Cobb and am happy with the results, but I am planning on doing a custom tune later this year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forcedinductiongt Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/12/qety5y7u.jpg Stage 1 http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/12/emubazu4.jpg Stage 2 2006 5eat sedan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forcedinductiongt Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 Actually wait, that first pic was stage two too...but I brake torqued the second pic, not the first Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kristian88 Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 Nice! The second pic was brake launched stage 1 then? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forcedinductiongt Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 Brake launched stage 2, actually Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stm25rs Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 My favorite comment was the "I have no real world experience, you should listen to me" or something like that. That's not at all what I was trying to say, that would be pretty ridiculous. Underdog suggested RSB and mounts. I added the suggestion for endlinks, since from what I've read on this forum, it's wise to do those at the same time. Underdog replied that all the Moog endlinks he has installed are identical to OEM. I replied with the link to the thread where people were discussing/recommending Moog as a slightly beefier-than-OEM alternative. I mentioned my lack of experience to explain that I was just passing on what I saw in that other thread. -FNG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sohcfour Posted March 12, 2014 Author Share Posted March 12, 2014 Guys - I appreciate the input. I this is good reading, and obviously varied opinions. Everyone has a different need and experience. I lean towards the conservative, and right now I'm doing a fresh Stage 0 with a replacement air filter, MT & front diff oil, rear diff, and a few late winter (early spring??) maintenance items. I'd also like to clean or replace my turbo oil feed line. Mufflers are out, I listened online and that's out. Fun as it would be, I dislike the idea that a downpipe would lock me into always needing a tune. Still, I think some kind of stage 1 would be fun and reversible. Ideally an e-tune stage 1 would be good, I think, working through someone that "speaks Cobb." Feedback to this line of thinking? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forcedinductiongt Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 You took out your mufflers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 Your better off with a retune regardless of the HW you hang off of it. Conservative is a good approach. Pick your poison on OpenSource or AP and go for it with a tuner you trust. Either way your going to learn more about your car than you barganed for. Now that I'm tuned with upgraded turbo, a DP may be in my future but that depends on many other factors. Keeping it running is priority one. I need to save for my future transmission rebuild. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sohcfour Posted March 12, 2014 Author Share Posted March 12, 2014 No the muffler are not off, they're out of scope! Too conspicuous, don't want to risk the drone, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sohcfour Posted March 19, 2014 Author Share Posted March 19, 2014 OK, I got an AP(V2). Its very slick. I ordered it on Amazon, which I wasn't 100% sure about, but it was $469 and completely checked out. I updated it on the COBB site, and loaded the latest v301 maps to it. I've tried a couple maps and some data monitoring. I started with 93 octane stage 1, and the boost was too high (16.9psi). I dropped down to 91 LWG and that was unimpressive. So, I settled on 93 LWG. Boost is right at target, lag is reduced, and it's definitely a more driveable car. I don't think I'll do anything more at this point, power wise. Some maintenance, some new tires, and love the car again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forcedinductiongt Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 Boost was too high? Were you leaning out or something? I've never really heard of anyone having problems that the stg 1 map was too powerfull Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sohcfour Posted March 19, 2014 Author Share Posted March 19, 2014 I was referring to the Cobb map notes. Target boost at stage 1 is 15psi max tapering to 12psi nearing redline. With the 93oct map I was at 17psi max tapering to 14psi. My understanding is that since I was exceeding the target I should used the lower waste gate map (LWG). Running that I'm right on target 15psi tapering to 12psi. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.