Derrickmd30 Posted March 8, 2014 Share Posted March 8, 2014 I'm going to be doing my timing belt on my subaru legacy next week. The problem is the crank seal is leaking. Is it ok to drive for two weeks with the leak and I just keep checking the oil? Does anyone know what tools i need to replace the timing belt and seals? Because I'm doing it on a weekend and its my only car. Im ordering this kit. Does it have the seals? http:// http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?nav=item.view&id=300926409369 Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cal71919 Posted March 9, 2014 Share Posted March 9, 2014 That looks like a pretty good kit. I would add the cam cap o-rings and the oil pump o-rings. They aren't very expensive at your local Subaru dealership. As for special tools, that just depends on how much experience you have wrenching and how creative you are. The Sugar specific tools are nice to have to hold the crank pulley and the cam gears but not necessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivant Posted March 9, 2014 Share Posted March 9, 2014 I think you will find that it will have been leaking for a while, and leaving it for another two weeks will not make any difference at all. Oil that leaks out of the crank seal seaps down the oil pump and drips down through the plastic timing covers and out onto the road. Oil doesn't seem to get on the timing belt unless it's absolutely pissing out. This has been in my experiance anyway, and I have done a lot of crank seals on these 2.2 motors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osei Posted March 9, 2014 Share Posted March 9, 2014 ....Does anyone know what tools i need to replace the timing belt and seals? Because I'm doing it on a weekend and its my only car..... The parts list shows the crank seal. If you are removing the oil pump to tighten its screws, you will need the o ring for it. You can match it up, you'll need to go to the dealer for the water pump gasket anyway, so get the oem o ring, also. 10mm socket, and open end for t belt covers and fan brackets. a ratcheting open end would be good. 12mm socket for alt. pulley bolts, ac belt bolts and the tensioner . 14mm socket for idler bolts. 22mm (1/2" size) for crank and a 1/2" breaker bar. A torque wrench would be good, but not absolutely necessary. Short ext for socket. If auto, a screw driver to hold the flexplate from the access port, or through the bolt hole on the passenger side, a few inches above the axle If you remove the oil pump, sealant to reattach ( I prefer anaerobic). Line up your marks before removing the old belt, it'll make it easier for the install. To repeat, do not use the paper gasket for the water pump. If you don't damage the old on removal, reuse it. Take your time . Don't forget to pull the pin on the tensioner, after you've double checked all your timing marks. Rotate the engine a few times to make sure all is good. Note: the painted marks will not line up after you turn it. for ref: http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derrickmd30 Posted March 10, 2014 Author Share Posted March 10, 2014 I thought the water pump gasket was with the timing belt kit. There is another gasket besides the paper one in the link? Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osei Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 The water pump gasket is in the kit, but it is a felt type. Use the oem metal gasket, not the paper one. O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derrickmd30 Posted March 10, 2014 Author Share Posted March 10, 2014 O ok. Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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