argyle409 Posted February 25, 2014 Share Posted February 25, 2014 I just searched the 13 page thread about p0021, no where in there did it address lightweight crank pulley… Which I feel could be the issue, but why pull it off and go throughout the headache of taking it off (cobb has no tool) if a lot of people have had this issue. An perhaps they have a lightweight crank pulley still on... Had I known this wouldn't be a simply fix I would have started a journal on all my troubles. But I don't feel like going all the way back to that point as some of the codes haven't come back since replacing certain parts… Here are the Symptoms I've had, the ones with * are still present: When it's below freezing the symptoms happen more often. Rough Idle * Stalling reversing * Engine doesn't sound symmetrical, something is off… I can feel it in my butt of my seat when at idle * Stalling when leaving lights from an idle Oil Pressure/CEL flashed but went away while leaving from light Engine sputtering Rubber smell after coming back from highway drive p0301 p0302 p0303 p0304 pfffe & w/e code is for fuel bank too lean The intercooler was cracked so I had it replaced an the codes went away for about 500 miles. Then I got p0303 + pfffe… I had the compression test done all cylinders are fine, valves flushed of excessive carbon build up, along with spark plugs replaced, and then we looked into the IACV. My car idles rough, and even stalls sometimes at lights, or like just 2 weeks ago backing into the snow/ice covered uphill spot the car completely stalled. My mechanic said only thing that looks off is the Throttle Motor Duty Cycle which he said he'd never had to work on such an issue. It was displaying barely 1 to -27%. Cleaned out the IACV mechanic said to drive it around till today an see it the CEL goes away. It didn't so he had me reset it with the Cobb AP, car was running fine except for small hesitations in idle but nothing as bad as before. I then stopped to get gas, an when I turned it back on I got p0021 code pop up. A friend suggested that all this headache is from the lightweight pulley?, it was on for about 2k before I had any code come up, other than the car taking a bit longer to catch an start up when I put the key in the ignition. I have video of the car in idle, it starts in cold at about 1200 rpm, but once you put it in gear drops to about 900 an slowly makes it down to 650-700 (according to my cobb, however looks lower in person on tac). Once warmed up in park or gear the idle is no higher than 750rpm, just putting around the parking lot the car stalled a few times parking in spots. Only got it on video once, as it's hard to video while driving… It's been 2 months diagnosing this problem, still no light at the end of tunnel... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted February 26, 2014 Share Posted February 26, 2014 At Idle, without the clutch in there shouldn't be any issues with a lightweight pulley. A few other questions: have you done a smoke test? what lightweight pulley is it? What other maintenance has been done in the past 30K miles? Oil Pressure light could be due to oil pickup Have you had the alternator checked? -mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
argyle409 Posted February 27, 2014 Author Share Posted February 27, 2014 At Idle, without the clutch in there shouldn't be any issues with a lightweight pulley. A few other questions: have you done a smoke test? what lightweight pulley is it? What other maintenance has been done in the past 30K miles? Oil Pressure light could be due to oil pickup Have you had the alternator checked? -mike I have not done smoke test yet, I did not think it would be vacuum leak if the car hold boost without an issue? Cobb lightweight pulley... I've only had the car for the past 12k, to which I have done nothing more than tranny flush it's a 5EAT… I picked it up with 72k I have 84k now, I replaced the turbo at 75k, and put on a down pipe and borla CBE. The oil pressure blinked again and went away last night, it has been blinking more frequently now w/e it's below freezing outside and I start the car… until it warms up it sounds like poop at idle every time it's below freezing out. I don't believer there is any issue with my alternator as I mentioned to the mechanic about it delaying a bit with starting and said battery was fine thus the alternator is doing it's job, no? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted February 28, 2014 Share Posted February 28, 2014 I have not done smoke test yet, I did not think it would be vacuum leak if the car hold boost without an issue? Cobb lightweight pulley... I've only had the car for the past 12k, to which I have done nothing more than tranny flush it's a 5EAT… I picked it up with 72k I have 84k now, I replaced the turbo at 75k, and put on a down pipe and borla CBE. The oil pressure blinked again and went away last night, it has been blinking more frequently now w/e it's below freezing outside and I start the car… until it warms up it sounds like poop at idle every time it's below freezing out. I don't believer there is any issue with my alternator as I mentioned to the mechanic about it delaying a bit with starting and said battery was fine thus the alternator is doing it's job, no? First, check your oil level ASAP. The blinking oil light is a bad sign, although probably not related to the other issues. You could have low oil or a cracked oil pickup. -mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
argyle409 Posted February 28, 2014 Author Share Posted February 28, 2014 First, check your oil level ASAP. The blinking oil light is a bad sign, although probably not related to the other issues. You could have low oil or a cracked oil pickup. -mike That's the first thing I did, w/e the the light would flash I would quickly pull over an check the level.. which stays at full, and it's only been 1200 miles since my last oil change. My thought was with below freezing temp's the oil gets thicker so it's not as easy to flow through the motor when it's still cold, after my car warms up the light never comes back on… even if the idle is still sloppy, if the car is warmed up I've never seen the oil pressure light block. So maybe the cold thick oil: A ) tricking the oil pressure sensor thus why it flickers but goes away instead of staying on. B ) the oil pump is on it's way out? I know anything oil related is a serious concern, since that's what lets the turbo move… an I only replaced it 12k ago so I don't want to blow it because of overseen oil issue. I read up a little about the Killer B oil pickup line… so I wouldn't know my oil pickup is cracked until I drained all the oil and took the pan off, correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted March 1, 2014 Share Posted March 1, 2014 1st of all, the light weight pulley should not be causing these types of issues. So now you're getting the P0021 code, which relates to the OCV and AVCS. This code normally pops up when A) OCV is sticking or stuck B) Not enough oil pressure going to the AVCS (cam gear). This will case some rough idles. With all the issues you're having, I would recommend installing an oil pressure gauge and keep an eye on it, to determine if it's oil related or not. What weight of oil are you running during the winter months? My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nubie Posted March 1, 2014 Share Posted March 1, 2014 Unless you are using gear oil instead of engine oil, you shouldnt have to worry about oil getting too thick. Even at -15* Ive never had an issue with oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted March 1, 2014 Share Posted March 1, 2014 Unless he's using 10w40(50), that oil will thicken in cold weather. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nubie Posted March 1, 2014 Share Posted March 1, 2014 Unless he's using 10w40(50), that oil will thicken in cold weather. hmm, yea tru dat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
argyle409 Posted March 1, 2014 Author Share Posted March 1, 2014 1st of all, the light weight pulley should not be causing these types of issues. So now you're getting the P0021 code, which relates to the OCV and AVCS. This code normally pops up when A) OCV is sticking or stuck B) Not enough oil pressure going to the AVCS (cam gear). This will case some rough idles. With all the issues you're having, I would recommend installing an oil pressure gauge and keep an eye on it, to determine if it's oil related or not. What weight of oil are you running during the winter months? We swapped the sensors around no code came up, so we swap them back around still no codes came up. The mechanic admitted it might of been loose, the p0021 code is gone… The rough idle is still present so is the Flashing "OIL AT TEMP". I feel stupid, the mechanic reflashed the ecu and said he put it on the right map back last week… I didn't check till today, I've been running stage 1 for the past 2 weeks. But now in still stage 2 OTS Cobb tune the idle can still act rough an the OIL AT TEMP light keeps coming on more frequently when the car is first starting. Oh an I used 5w30 oil, it's not leaking I've been putting cardboard under the card to see if any stains happen. Back up about 7 months, one time I brought it to subaru dealer they said they pulled an OSV code, but cleared it and it has yet to come back… however since about a 4 weeks ago, now happening more frequently the "oil at temp" time flashes then goes away while leaving the lights or if I'm reversing out of a tight space meaning a bunch of small throttle spurts. Right before the "AT OIL TEMP" light flashes the car almost sounds like it's going to die… but doesn't. So does the OSV have to related to the "AT OIL TEMP"… Once warmed up at idle 90% the time now it sounds fine every now an then it'll sound like time is off a smidgen. Today I met up with another subaru enthusiasts at the gas pump, he sat in my car an felt the rough idle but didn't get the light to flicker… He said to check my TGV, as he had similar idle crap never got the OIL AT TEMP light but said it took over 5 months till a TGV code came up. Lastly, my mechanic is having family issues so he's getting backed up with work. But I don't really want to just bring it to any shop, as he's good with subarus… would a tuning shop be able to fix this issue an pin point it down better than the stealership? As they charged me last time $250 to read a code and pull the plastic shroud around the steering wheel to tell me a had a bad fuse… They also told me me some bullshit how having a radiator shroud is hindering the cars performance to stay cool, an they recommended I get an OEM plastic shroud from them for $137 WTF?!? Never been to a tuning shop, I know they aren't cheap… but I feel they have a better idea what they are doing with a car that's got basic mods over the dealer. The other dealer near by me is even worse with prying money out of you for no reason.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 Wait, the OIL AT TEMP light is on? That is usually a completely different than the low oil pressure light. -mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
argyle409 Posted March 3, 2014 Author Share Posted March 3, 2014 Wait, the OIL AT TEMP light is on? That is usually a completely different than the low oil pressure light. -mike After I switched the map to from stage 1… to now stage 2, the lights changed from the little red oil canister blinking, to now the OIL AT TEMP light… yea it's throwing me off too. But since this only happens at idle and never any other driving condition, could my IDLE me a TGV issue… while the lights popping up relating to oil be something totally different? I want to solve all issues, but maybe I have 2 separate issues one pertains to oil, while the other is idle/air related. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 TGV's are known to stick more during colder months. Even mine stick a little at start ups when temps are below 40*. Deleting the TGV's may help in your situation, not saying it's the problem, but just an option. "Oil at Temp" light refers to the transmission. When was the last time you flushed the tranny fuild? My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 rough idle and stalling when cold is normally caused by the o-rings at the intake to TGV's,. replace them with the new olarger orange ones form the dealer, about $20 for the four of them. It may be easier to lift the intake at he TGV to head and change the o-rings on the bench. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted March 3, 2014 Share Posted March 3, 2014 TGV's are known to stick more during colder months. Even mine stick a little at start ups when temps are below 40*. Deleting the TGV's may help in your situation, not saying it's the problem, but just an option. "Oil at Temp" light refers to the transmission. When was the last time you flushed the tranny fuild? Bingo. Oil AT Temp refers to the Automatic Transmission temp, could be a faulty sensor or could be a trans issue. If it is a trans issue it could also play into your stalling problem because the TCU interacts with the ECU... -Mike Paisan http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001. Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) |AIM: AZP Installs "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
argyle409 Posted March 4, 2014 Author Share Posted March 4, 2014 Bingo. Oil AT Temp refers to the Automatic Transmission temp, could be a faulty sensor or could be a trans issue. If it is a trans issue it could also play into your stalling problem because the TCU interacts with the ECU... -Mike Paisan Okay so I'm going to go ahead an order those orange TGV gaskets so see if the solution is just that simple:rolleyes:.. Want to check this is the correct part #14035AA492 The tranny was completely flushed when I bought the car @ 72.5k, then I added a tranny cooler down the road @77k. And at 80k I noticed some fluid leaking from the cooler clamps, so I had my shop tighten it and I had them replace the tranny fluid that was in there. When the car first starts up in the cold, and I don't let it idle for like 5 minutes it can be a bit jerky with shifts… On those days I either drive like a grandma till it warms up or just throw it in manual mode an switch the gears myself if it's a lot of stop an go, until the car gets warmed up. I thought the fluid was low so that's why I checked the tranny fluid over the weekend and it was reading full on the dipstick for after the engine got warm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
argyle409 Posted March 4, 2014 Author Share Posted March 4, 2014 TGV's are known to stick more during colder months. Even mine stick a little at start ups when temps are below 40*. Deleting the TGV's may help in your situation, not saying it's the problem, but just an option. "Oil at Temp" light refers to the transmission. When was the last time you flushed the tranny fuild? I'm still learning about how my car works, from my understanding the TGV is some sorta valve that has a flap that is closed when the engine is still cold, once the car has gotten warmed up the flaps open up…. A delete would remove the flaps my friend told me, but he also said it WILL make you have inconsistent idle at cold starts until the car is warmed up… So aren't I already having "inconsistent" idle already, how is it going to help if it's open the whole time? Do I need to get a tune, if I delete the TGV… I'm not trying to spend more money than necessary, as I've already thrown a bunch an still not getting anywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 I'm still learning about how my car works, from my understanding the TGV is some sorta valve that has a flap that is closed when the engine is still cold, once the car has gotten warmed up the flaps open up…. A delete would remove the flaps my friend told me, but he also said it WILL make you have inconsistent idle at cold starts until the car is warmed up… So aren't I already having "inconsistent" idle already, how is it going to help if it's open the whole time? Do I need to get a tune, if I delete the TGV… I'm not trying to spend more money than necessary, as I've already thrown a bunch an still not getting anywhere. TGV deletes and their install aren't exactly a cheap fix... Also yes you will need a tune on it. -mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 Okay so I'm going to go ahead an order those orange TGV gaskets so see if the solution is just that simple:rolleyes:.. Want to check this is the correct part #14035AA492 The tranny was completely flushed when I bought the car @ 72.5k, then I added a tranny cooler down the road @77k. And at 80k I noticed some fluid leaking from the cooler clamps, so I had my shop tighten it and I had them replace the tranny fluid that was in there. When the car first starts up in the cold, and I don't let it idle for like 5 minutes it can be a bit jerky with shifts… On those days I either drive like a grandma till it warms up or just throw it in manual mode an switch the gears myself if it's a lot of stop an go, until the car gets warmed up. I thought the fluid was low so that's why I checked the tranny fluid over the weekend and it was reading full on the dipstick for after the engine got warm. Cold ATs are pretty jerky with shifts until warmed up. If you have an ATF cooler that will make it take that much longer to warm up. -mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted March 4, 2014 Share Posted March 4, 2014 Is your "Oil at Temp" blinking 16 times at start up. This is an indication that the trans is throwing a code. If so, you'll need to get that code pulled from the TCU (transmission module), not the ECU. Most OBDII scanners are not capable in pulling these codes, you may need to take it to a dealership since they have the equipment to pull these codes. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
argyle409 Posted March 4, 2014 Author Share Posted March 4, 2014 Is your "Oil at Temp" blinking 16 times at start up. This is an indication that the trans is throwing a code. If so, you'll need to get that code pulled from the TCU (transmission module), not the ECU. Most OBDII scanners are not capable in pulling these codes, you may need to take it to a dealership since they have the equipment to pull these codes. It never flashed 16 times… Is there a write up of all the flash counts mean for the "OIL AT TEMP" or any other lights. As I would have never guessed that at oil temp related to the auto tranny… The light never flashes right when I start up the car, only when the car is idling in DRIVE or REVERSE then right as I push in the accelerator sometimes the light will come on and flash, usually once real quick. It's so fast that even with my phone pointed at my cluster recording it's hard to catch a still frame in the video clip. The tranny cooler making the warm-up process longer totally makes sense, I usually let it idle for five minutes first an then don't seem to have that issue anymore. It's about 25 out tonight, so I'm going to go set up my go pro facing my cluster an see if I can get your guys a clip of my start up an perhaps the light flashing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
argyle409 Posted March 6, 2014 Author Share Posted March 6, 2014 So now I have got a CEL for misfire of cylinder 1 & 3… http://instagram.com/p/lLxHotsGMA/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 So now I have got a CEL for misfire of cylinder 1 & 3… http://instagram.com/p/lLxHotsGMA/ Sounds like you have a lot of different things going on at once. I would definitely see out a shop local to you to see if they can help you get things sorted out on this. -mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 In most cases if you get cylinder 1 & 3 misfire code, it's usually a vacuum hose is disconnected. Does it drive the same or is it running rough? My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
argyle409 Posted March 6, 2014 Author Share Posted March 6, 2014 In most cases if you get cylinder 1 & 3 misfire code, it's usually a vacuum hose is disconnected. Does it drive the same or is it running rough? Basically once I'm moving 25mph+ I feel nothing that's different from before this all started, other than the needle on the rpm drops to about 1000 or lower while cruising (foot not on accelerator) which is odd because it would usually be at around 2.2k when I was cruising around town in the past @ about 40mph. Even if I throw it in manual mode an shift down to 3rd, once I let go the accelerator an have reached about 40 the needle drops down to around 1k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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