unclaimedwalnut Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 I just want to start off saying that this community of people on this forum are awesome. I am a new owner of a 05 legacy gt. I did allot of research on this car and that almost scared me off but as I researched I found this forum and found that no matter my problem these people here have experienced it, fixed it, and improved it. I'm not so scared now. I found that it is hard to post a new post on a problem that hasn't been address on this forum. Thanks to all the people here that on their own time put the info on here that help people like me. I hate to be that guy to ask the same question that every one else has asked. My 05 has 123k miles on it and I think it has the original turbo. My question is what's the first thing I should do to ensure my turbo continues to live a full life.? I know many before me have asked this question and sorry for the repetition. Thanks for your time it really is appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 You'll want to make sure the car has a catless up pipe. When you replace the oem one, you should do a 3" down pipe too. At that time the turbo will be off the car, check it for shaft play. a little side to side is ok, may be say .015", any in/out play is not good. I also bolted my vf52 to the up pipe, bolts make it easier to line up the turbo inlet and the "new oil drain hose" when putting the turbo back on the up pipe. While your t here the banjo filter should be removed from the back of the passenger side head, read the sticky about that. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2-5gt-turbo-oil-supply-banjo-bolt-filter-removal-62371.html I also DEI heat wrapped my up/dp to just below the axle CV boot. Then get the car off the factory MAP. The will need to be tuned. Here you may like this too. http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/ the GT's start around page 1600. Oh, welcome to the forum. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unclaimedwalnut Posted February 4, 2014 Author Share Posted February 4, 2014 I keep hearing "get your car tuned" at every interval of a build. I don't know about you but I live in the middle of nowhere and not sure where to get this done. Can I buy a programmer or is this a very in depth process. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 Yes, www.tuningalliance.com is a Vendor on here, see his thread in the Vendor Forum. Mike has been taking great care of my cars and others on here. He has a extensive backgroung in Tuning and was the first or one of the few to fine the timing flaw in the stock MAP. The flaw will cause burnt valves. He can help you with a "open source" tune if your good with a laptop or you can buy a Cobb AP v3 and he can email you MAP's. In the threads is a post about, dangerous trims in 5th gen's, the same issue as in 4th gen's. My machine shop buddy does all the heads for my local Subaru dealer. Mine were the first set of these heads he's ever seen that didn't need any valves. That was at 154,000 miles on them. My wagon has been on Cobb AP since 8000 miles, in Dec 04 when it first came out for these cars. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thisheregirafFe Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 when you're swapping OEM parts for aftermarket, you'll need to tune so your ECU isn't thinking it's still a stock car and have it run like hell at best, and damage things at worst. get ahold of dave (cryo) on the forum. he's an amazingly helpful guy and will 'tune' you via email. doesn't matter if you know nothing right now - just read the stickies in the tuning forum to get the basics down and he'll walk you through the rest. you'll basically use a laptop +vag-com/tactrix cable or cobb accessport to take logs. dave will look at them, make adjustments to maps that you upload to your ecu, rinse and repeat until things are running tip top. good luck and welcome! also, to answer your first question about your turbo - check the filters in the banjo bolts. if they're dirty remove or replace them and always change your oil and never let it get low. most folks around here use rotella t6. you can also drop your downpipe and check for shaft play in the turbo itself. if you can wiggle that thing a bunch, it's better to buy a new turbo now and replace it before it grenades your block. if you like it stock, just go oem, otherwise a vf52 or bnr 16g are a nice bump in performance. though they require a tune. i can put anything i want down here?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unclaimedwalnut Posted February 4, 2014 Author Share Posted February 4, 2014 Thanks guys you rock. I have been pretty much reading continuously since I starting looking for a legacy. Still have allot to learn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 You've found the right forum, its all on here somewhere, I still learn stuff everyday here. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unclaimedwalnut Posted February 4, 2014 Author Share Posted February 4, 2014 Should I go ahead and replace both solenoids and the two banjo bolts just to be sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 The banjo filter, you may want to remove. Just decide what turbo you want when it comes time, if it ever does. Be prepared. I think you OCV's are fine. May be do a couple of quick oil changes. Also don't forget about the tranny and rear diff fluids. Clean the MAF sensor, and make sure the grounds are clean and good. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unclaimedwalnut Posted February 5, 2014 Author Share Posted February 5, 2014 I know I have read many different agreements on both sides of removing screen or cleaning the screen. So is the general consensus that it be removed and if so do I need new copper washers when I put it back together.? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakeh9890 Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 New washers is always a good idea and ofcourse gently clean all the surfaces. Dont use a heavy wire brush as that might mess up the seal and be carefull tightening those banjo bolts they can break easy so find the torque specs. I second mike from tuning alliance i just had him dyno tune my car and he worked his ass off to make it right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adj789 Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 You've come to the right place, the community here is very helpful Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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