2.5i preferred oil brand

[Perscitus]

What oil filter you run?

Subaru black or WIX (there is a new part # out now that works on all of our engines and has the right bypass pressure spec matching Subaru OEM filters - search for info on that, posted somewhere on the forum). There is also a NAPA cross reference part # for the exact same filter (WIX/NAPA, NAPA/WIX).

[menchgelof]

There's a lot of talk about Subaru Turbo engines shearing oil to a thinner grade, but what about NA engines? Are they prone to wearing out the oil too?

 

Additionally, I saw Motul and Rotella T6 are both recommended at the beginning of the thread (and all over the web). Anyone have any other remarks about the differences or preferences between the two (NA owners especially)?

[NORULZleggy]

Have you had your oil tested after 25k?

 

No I have not tested the oil after 25K miles. I will do a test to see the outcome. Now the car will burn some oil over the time like all Subaru's, so I top off when needed to stay full.

 

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

 

Is it really worth saving $50/year to risk the health of the motor? I wouldn't touch a car even with 25k mile oil changes even if it was not currently burning oil. I have seen a few extended oil changes 'tests', some of them have failed. My wife's toyota if you followed the factory recommended 15000 oil change schedule, those who did had sludging issues at 100k+. (I fortuntely didn't). The 2005 Legacy 2.5gt didn't do well with Subaru's 7500mile oil change schedule either.

 

I did this same thing on my wife 1998 toyota corolla, which those motors are bad about sludge. I took the valve cover off and it was very clean. The corolla was sold with 187K miles on it and still going strong. I never had an issue, the car was still getting 35 MPG. I do think its worth saving the money. I put 40k - 50k a year on my legacy. How is it a risk to the health of the motor? I don't see why people are think the car might not be healthy. Are motors a very good when taken care of. Plus if it breaks I fix it. Also I am taking about the N/A legacy, not LGT. I did not do this for my STI and would not do it on a turbo motor EVER.

 

I use synthetic 5w30 (usually Mobil 1) for Subaru (and my Daily Drivers.) Heavier oil equals worse gas mileage.

 

I do use 5w-30 now but will switch it soon to 10-30. I get 28 MPG with the 5w-30. we will see what it is with the new stuff. Again I have 135K miles. I have used Mobil 1, Castrol, and royal purple (in other cars).

 

There's a lot of talk about Subaru Turbo engines shearing oil to a thinner grade, but what about NA engines? Are they prone to wearing out the oil too?

 

 

Additionally, I saw Motul and Rotella T6 are both recommended at the beginning of the thread (and all over the web). Anyone have any other remarks about the differences or preferences between the two (NA owners especially)?

 

I have a 08 2.5i, I do not shear oil, but every car is different. I say run what you prefer. I am not trying to change anybody's mind. I have had no problems with the way I do my cars and do not plan on changing it. If you take care of your car, check the oil often, and keep an eye on things I think all will be well. Just don't fall into the so called do what others do or use the stuff others do. Find what works and do that.

[apexi]

There's a lot of talk about Subaru Turbo engines shearing oil to a thinner grade, but what about NA engines? Are they prone to wearing out the oil too?

 

Based off of many uoa's that I have seen, our naturally aspirated subaru engines do shear down oil quite a bit as well. From what I've seen, it does not seem to increase wear though. They're tough on oil in the sense that they shear it down, but they're not tough on oil from a TBN standpoint. Basically TBN (total base number) is the amount of acid neutralizing agents in an oil. You generally don't want the TAN (total acid number) to ever go above the TBN, because that means that the oil is no longer able to neutralize acids the way that it should, and that's when problems can start. Since most places don't include TAN unless you ask and pay a little extra, you generally don't want your TBN to drop below 1.5 or so in my opinion.

 

This is the dilemma I've faced for some time now. From a TBN standpoint, I can definitely run my oil longer than 4k-5k. Plus since my car consumes oil, adding fresh oil replenishes the TBN a little bit. From a viscosity standpoint though, it looks like my oil ends up being on the upper end of the 20wt range after 2.5k-3k or so I think. I've attached an image that has 3 of my uoa's. A 20wt oil will have a viscosity of 5.60-9.29cSt @ 100C, and a 30wt oil will have a viscosity of 9.3-12.49cSt @100C. It's interesting that blackstone says 9.1cSt as the low end for a 30wt oil, not sure what's up with that.

[junichi]

Hey guys, I am looking to try out Shell T6 for my next oil change. Gone to walmart today and found it, however its call Shell Rotella T6 Synthetic DIESEL oil 5W40. Are you guys using this? or am I looking at the wrong one?

[parad1mg]

Yup that's the one..

 

Hopefully that is the one cause that is what i have been using for the past few years

[T_Altland27]

Hey guys, I am looking to try out Shell T6 for my next oil change. Gone to walmart today and found it, however its call Shell Rotella T6 Synthetic DIESEL oil 5W40. Are you guys using this? or am I looking at the wrong one?

 

Nope thats the right stuff

[Planner]

I found my oil consumption went down a bit following a new PCV valve. It still consumes oil, as most of yours do, but at a manageable rate. My local Subaru performance shop likes the Valvoline semi-synthetic oil (Durablend). Since I had a top end rebuild (blew a head gasket at 122k miles, external oil leak, not internal coolant) involving new valve guides, head machining, etc (heads were off, why not?), I signed up for the Valvoline 225k challenge (https://valvoline.promo.eprize.com/engineguarantee/). Every 4k with new Valvoline semi-synthetic and they guarantee 225k engine life.