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How do I check a block to find out if it's usable?


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I just got a couple 2.5 sohc motors and I want to make sure they're ok to use before I start my rebuild. One is fresh out of a car and the other one was in a backyard with the right head off. I was told that one had a broken head bolt in it. I haven't looked at it to much yet as I just got it back to the house and the other one should be ready this weekend. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Well a tear down and measuring of the various tolerances associated with the rotating assembly is a good start. If you do not have the proper tools for this I would have a professional do it. Nothing like a failed engine after working so hard to rebuild due to oversight.

 

 

The engine out of the car, was it running or confirmed to be "blown"? the one sitting in the backyard with the head off shouldnt be an option unless you have it machined properly.

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both motors will go through a complete rebuild as long as the blocks are ok. one will be a standard replacement motor for one of my cars while the other one will be upgraded with better parts to make it a higher horsepower n/a engine. i am looking at manley crank and rods with arp bolts throughout. still researching the pistons.
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When you say fresh out do you mean it was a running engine that you pulled or it was sitting in a car that you discovered then pulled it?

 

For a N/A daily driver restoration you don't/shouldn't need to go the extra dollar :) if the engine you pulled was confirmed running and depending on the miles I would reuse certain parts like pistons and rods IF a tear down and inspection had good results. Look for deep scoring/pitting/hatching on the cylinder walls this would indicate a catastrophic piston or rod failure.

 

You seem to know your stuff about the whole process once the ball starts rolling so the basic refresh new bearing, seals, gaskets and new plastic parts if they are in bad shape due to heat cycling. Dont use Felpro valve cover gaskets in fact I would buy the rebuild kit its ranges from $80-$100 online it includes all the OEM seals and gaskets in one kit makes life easier.

 

Ive rebuilt 1 engine a EJ251 out of a 2.5RS (2001) we didnt bore the cylinders but we did have them honed and reused stock 99.5mm pistons. Used ACL bearings and OEM everything else, had the short block reassembled by the machine shop b/c we had no idea at the time how to attach the wrist pins and retaining clips :lol:

 

While the block was out we cleaned the heads, inspected the accessories (ALT, AC, sensors, etc) replaced cam, crank, and MAP sensors. Didn't tear the heads down but I used a finger gauge and lashed them on the bench (much easier to turn the cam).

 

For that other engine plan. Getting more ponies out of a EJ251 is costly ;)

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I did a full felpro reseal and gates timing kit on my legacy last year with great results with the exception of the valve covers. I will use beck arnely next time. They buy the same gaskets a some so I shouldn't have an issue. I did some quick math and it'll be over 3k to do the motor I want so I'm thinking I'll cave in and do an sti swap. I think it'll be cheaper in the line run.
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