Ironcheflove Posted January 8, 2014 Share Posted January 8, 2014 So I just bought this 97 L 2.2 and I've been chasing down a P0400 code for the past week. This last time after cleaning the EGR, replacing all the vac lines on the EGR side of the manifold, and replacing the BPT the code stayed off for 210 miles of hard mountain driving then just came back on. I just recleaned the EGR and there was some more soot that was powdery. The EGR holds vacuum when applied and held it for over a hour as I cleaned it. I checked the solenoid as per Haynes manual for 10-100 ohms and 12V when the key is ON. How can there be so much more soot after cleaning it just 2 days ago? I'm at a lost as what to do except to replace the EGR but that holds vacuum...? I replaced the BPT after checking the bottom port for vacuum and it didn't hold any or even pump up. It does though allow air to be blown in the port. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spooln30 Posted January 8, 2014 Share Posted January 8, 2014 Almost every Subaru with a po400 cel that came to the shop ended up being the VSV or vacuum solenoid for the egr. Remove it and apply the 12v and ground while blowing or sucking onto a vacuum line attached to one port, feeling for whatever on the other port. You said you check the ohms and 12volts but I'm guessing you checked 12v going to the VSV? Even if they ohm out doesn't mean the VSV is good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurtis9813 Posted January 8, 2014 Share Posted January 8, 2014 Its probably that your solenoid is just going bad. I had the same code come up on my 95 L and after cleaning everything twice and reclearing the codes, the code came back, so I swapped out the solenoid with one off a parts motor iny garage, and the code has been gone for 10000 miles and 5 months of driving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironcheflove Posted January 9, 2014 Author Share Posted January 9, 2014 I was able to get it to pass DEQ but then on my way back, 5 miles from the DEQ station, the CEL came back on. I'll order a new solenoid and try that. Thanks for the advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vr4 Posted January 10, 2014 Share Posted January 10, 2014 Another +1 for bad vsv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironcheflove Posted April 12, 2014 Author Share Posted April 12, 2014 Well I'm about to get full coverage on this car and roll it down a hill. This code has been the bane of my existence. After replacing all the vac lines to start,(rest & 200+ mi) then replacing the BPT (reset & 200+ mi), then the vac control solenoid (reset & 200+ mi), and now a new EGR (reset & 200+ mi) I still have this code. I've reset after replacing each part and even drove for a couple hundred of miles before it comes back on. I've started down the line from cheapest replaceable part to now the EGR valve. What else can be throwing up this code? I've checked the vac with a gauge and it's at 20 through the whole system and EGR system, but when the EGR vac. control solenoid kicks in it's only pulling 15 at the EGR valve but has 20 going into the control solenoid. I'm losing 5 from when the solenoid is told to kick in and turn on the EGR valve. I've tested the valve off the car and it opens fully with less than 7. Can anyone help me before I commit insurance fraud?!?! or just reset my light and sell my trouble to some poor sucker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironcheflove Posted April 12, 2014 Author Share Posted April 12, 2014 I also have reved the car up to 2500+ rpm and have seen the system work and open the EGR valve on it's own so I know the eletrical connection is ok too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironcheflove Posted April 12, 2014 Author Share Posted April 12, 2014 did some more research and am going to try replacing the Pressure Sensor Filter. We'll see come Tues. when it gets it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironcheflove Posted April 13, 2014 Author Share Posted April 13, 2014 Well to check if it's the filter I bypassed it and reset the CEL. After 40 mi the CEL came back on but 120 mi later it went off and has been off now for 50 mi. I'm hoping it's the filter because why would it be ok now without it...? I'll keep running her without the filter until it comes in Tues. and see if it comes on again or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironcheflove Posted April 14, 2014 Author Share Posted April 14, 2014 Well I have cleared the P0400 by bypassing the pressure filter, but I have unveiled P0106 & P0325 (MAP sensor & Knock sensor). I double checked the lines to make sure that everything was fine and they were. So now I guess I replace the MAP and Knock... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnstrmech Posted April 15, 2014 Share Posted April 15, 2014 No one has suggested to see if any of the egr passages are plugged?.... Thats usually the common reason. With the engine running at idle, use a hand held vacuum pump and open the egr valve, the car should stumble and stall. If not, the theres some carbon blocking the passages. Thats were id put my money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironcheflove Posted April 16, 2014 Author Share Posted April 16, 2014 Well I already checked vac at every port and hose along the EGR and found a bad solenoid and BPT. Was still throwing the P0400 and after all was tested or new I got a new EGR. So that solved the P0400 and she threw up CEL P0106 and P0325. Tested the MAP solenoid and that was bad so replaced and P0106 gone. Replaced knock sensor and got rid of the P0325. Then she threw up a P0507, so I cleaned out the IACV with Seafoam, induced 2 cans of Seafoam into the intake, and cleaned out the TB. Well in my induction of the Seafoam some got sprayed on the intake manifold and when it hit the #3 piston intake gasket it surgued. So I went happy with the TB cleaner to find if there were more. Only found the leak in the intake manifold at the gasket on the #3 piston. So now I have gasket on hand and since I have the engine half torn out I'll do a valve clearance/adjustment check too. Thinking I should go the whole hog too and do the Timing Belt too since I don't know when it was done last. Hopefully that HUGE vac leak being fixed will fix my P0507. Wish I had more time or I'd do the rings too since there's 257k on her. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vr4 Posted April 16, 2014 Share Posted April 16, 2014 Good job. Clogged egr ports are not common on these engines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironcheflove Posted April 16, 2014 Author Share Posted April 16, 2014 Well I got a Gates Timing Belt Kit coming but which seals should I replace since I got it open too. Cam x 2, Crank, Oil pump? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironcheflove Posted April 21, 2014 Author Share Posted April 21, 2014 So it took me all weekend because of frozen bolts, a stubborn crankshaft sprocket, and a faulty torque wrench but I got new intake, exhaust, &head gaskets, cam/crank & oil seals, timing set, valve cover, and valve adjustment done. Threw up a P0302 & P0400 again but checked the plug wire and tightened it and codes gone. Glad I did the timing belt when I did because the old one was in sad shape and the heads & intake were caked with carbon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abeasu Posted April 26, 2014 Share Posted April 26, 2014 Hi, I am new to the forum and sort of a Subaru newbie. I had the same problems with the P0400 code along with other codes, as I was changing the PCV valve I noticed the connector to the coilpacks was loosed, it seems with all the heat of the engine has made the plastic brittle and it developed a small crack that make the connection bad. I put 2 zip tights to hold the connector in place, it worked like charm. No more codes. Here's a pic of the connector with the zip tights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironcheflove Posted April 28, 2014 Author Share Posted April 28, 2014 Well I've checked everything and I'm still getting a misfire. Decided to rent a compression tester and it wasn't good. 182,176,168,130. Put a little oil in the low cylinder and tested again. It went up to 170. Looks like I have some worn rings from what I can tell from that test. I guess I need to find a low mileage import engine to throw in her now. Anyone know of some reliable importers in the Portland OR area? I also did a recheck of my timing and the driver cam is clockwise fast by a full width of the mark on the cam pully. Take can't be my problem, can it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironcheflove Posted April 30, 2014 Author Share Posted April 30, 2014 I swear to god that my subbie hates me. On the way home from looking at the "new" engine that about to go in her, she starts making a loud groan/whine sound from the rear end and it was not affected by brakes (reg & parking) being used to slow/stop. Made a right turn and it got louder, hit 45 mph and it started but went away shortly after. I got home and felt the hub nuts and the rear drivers side was way too hot for me to even touch but I could hold on to the pass. side nut for 5+ sec before it burned me. SO now a wheel bearing too... By chance this couldn't be my lucky day and this wheel bearing change can be done without removing the knuckle to replace the seals and bearing? FWD/AWD bearing tool? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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