blankdeluxe Posted January 10, 2014 Author Share Posted January 10, 2014 What codes? It took me a year to rid my 22t of little bugs. Drove me nuts, lol. VF11/12s are tiny but bulletproof. 173k on mine so far and no issues. 11 22 35 49 I'm going to start with cleaning the MAF tonight like you said and then go from there. I may pull the MAF off my 97 and throw it on the 93 just to see if that will make it run any better and then go from there. And I know for a fact that the knock sensor wire is shot(code 22). I'm not sure where to go to get the new shielded wire yet though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted January 10, 2014 Share Posted January 10, 2014 The MAF has to be an aluminum MAF (part no. AA170) to work properly from what I have been told. They are one some second gens, not sure which ones. But on some SSs they had the plastic JECS MAF which is what is required for a robtune. I would buy a new knock sensor. They are only $15 on ebay for a non OEM one. I've had good experience with them. However, they are pretty tricky to replace compared to an NA since vacuum lines, coolant lines, etc. are kinda in the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blankdeluxe Posted January 10, 2014 Author Share Posted January 10, 2014 The MAF has to be an aluminum MAF (part no. AA170) to work properly from what I have been told. They are one some second gens, not sure which ones. But on some SSs they had the plastic JECS MAF which is what is required for a robtune. I would buy a new knock sensor. They are only $15 on ebay for a non OEM one. I've had good experience with them. However, they are pretty tricky to replace compared to an NA since vacuum lines, coolant lines, etc. are kinda in the way. I'm doing the knock sensor for sure. I'm not worried about that. But the wire that runs to it is trashed too. Where can I find that? And I'll search that MAF number and see what I can find. Do you possibly know prices on a Robtune? His website leaves a lot to be desired. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 There is a robtune thread on bbs. I'm not 100% sure about the pricing, but iirc it is about $280 if you supply the ecu. It has to be a 20G ecu btw. Rob doesn't seem to be too interested in working with the 22t ecu. As far as the wiring harness that runs to it, I'd think your best bet is the junkyard. I would try cleaning the MAF before replacing it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blankdeluxe Posted January 13, 2014 Author Share Posted January 13, 2014 There is a robtune thread on bbs. I'm not 100% sure about the pricing, but iirc it is about $280 if you supply the ecu. It has to be a 20G ecu btw. Rob doesn't seem to be too interested in working with the 22t ecu. As far as the wiring harness that runs to it, I'd think your best bet is the junkyard. I would try cleaning the MAF before replacing it. Yeah, that Robtune probably wont be worth it for me. By the time I have a 20g ecu and then paying for all the parts and the tune I could have just gone Emanage. Someone needs to start tuning 22t already. Weekend update. I got an aluminum MAF and got it cleaned. Car runs a little better now and idles slightly better. I defiantly have a bad knock sensor and crank sensor. The new knock sensor is on its way right now and I will be ordering the crank sensor later today. I still have to figure out rewiring those two and finding new connectors for them since all of that is gone in mine. I also put some sea foam through the intake just to try and clean out as much crap as I can. Come to find out my exhaust is leaking pretty much everywhere and I also had some smoke coming out of my wastegate as will. Sign of a bad turbo? I'm not too worried about it since its getting replaced anyway but it would be good know out of curiosity. I also replaced about 6 feet in different vacuum lines and that seemed to smooth things out even more. While I had all of that apart I did find a crack in my BPV. Whats a good replacment for that or am I better off to just leave it alone for now since Im going with a top mount once I get this motor pulled? I also got all the interior pulled from the 93 and installed in my 97. Much nicer then the crappy grey L seats that came in my wagon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 Where is the crack on the BPV? On one of the nipples? I would try fixing the crack with JB Quick (not JB Weld), it works great. I also have a spare 22T BPV if you really need one. When you install a tmic a stock WRX or STi BPV will work just find. They can also be crushed to handle higher psi. Installing a boost gauge is highly recommended. Then you can tell how much boost you are actually getting, and if you have any vacuum leaks. I have a Prosport gauge and I haven't had any issues with it although others have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blankdeluxe Posted January 13, 2014 Author Share Posted January 13, 2014 Where is the crack on the BPV? On one of the nipples? I would try fixing the crack with JB Quick (not JB Weld), it works great. I also have a spare 22T BPV if you really need one. When you install a tmic a stock WRX or STi BPV will work just find. They can also be crushed to handle higher psi. Installing a boost gauge is highly recommended. Then you can tell how much boost you are actually getting, and if you have any vacuum leaks. I have a Prosport gauge and I haven't had any issues with it although others have. Its cracked on the nipple for the small hose. I have it epoxied together right now just so that it will work while I'm testing the motor and getting things running. I will be putting on a hybrid BOV when I swap to the top mount. Just wanna make sure this isn't going to kill something while I'm getting the motor running right. Boost gauge is on order as well. Vacuum leaks are non existent now though. I literally replaced every single vacuum hose I could find under the hood. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blankdeluxe Posted January 30, 2014 Author Share Posted January 30, 2014 ej22e with boost. And for anyone that is wanting to do this, get ready to start shelling out cash. I had a complete turbo legacy for a parts car and will be in about $500 when everything is all said and done. And I didn't have to pay for - headers(will have to be made custom for single port), uppipe(custom), downpipe(fits like a glove), turbo, turbo bracket, intercooler(will be installed next week), IACV(the turbo one makes things way easier), and intake piping. Add all that up with everything else you have to get to make this work and like everyone else says on here....Its not worth the cost. I'm running at wastegate pressure only on a vf11 at 5psi and thats really pushing what this car can do. I'm not trying to make this a super fast car or anything like that, just wanted to see how hard it would be to build and go from there. My logic is if this motor blows its not a big deal since I have a ej22t just waiting for me to throw money at it. I have only started the car so far and pulled it out and back in the garage so I cant say how it feels yet but it sounds mean. More details to come as I get things fine tuned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted January 31, 2014 Share Posted January 31, 2014 Nice work! Any plans for a tmic and TD04? Edit: reread your post and saw you are doing the tmic next week. You got me thinking though. I'm building a 205/22t hybrid but maybe Ill drop in the 22t w22t heads and run that while I work on my harness merge and save up for a bigger turbo and open up the 205 combustion chambers to match the 22 bore. I have a tdo4 and XT tmic that I could use, but I was going to swap them in the wife's car and she wants more power, lol. But I can just swap the tdo4 on her car and put her vf12 on... I know, cool story bro, lol. I wonder if the lower compression of the 22t would be an issue with the 22e ecu. 22T block is split in the basement and I have STi rods and WIsecos that are going in with new bearings and some machine work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blankdeluxe Posted January 31, 2014 Author Share Posted January 31, 2014 Nice work! Any plans for a tmic and TD04? Edit: reread your post and saw you are doing the tmic next week. You got me thinking though. I'm building a 205/22t hybrid but maybe Ill drop in the 22t w22t heads and run that while I work on my harness merge and save up for a bigger turbo and open up the 205 combustion chambers to match the 22 bore. I have a tdo4 and XT tmic that I could use, but I was going to swap them in the wife's car and she wants more power, lol. But I can just swap the tdo4 on her car and put her vf12 on... I know, cool story bro, lol. I wonder if the lower compression of the 22t would be an issue with the 22e ecu. 22T block is split in the basement and I have STi rods and WIsecos that are going in with new bearings and some machine work. Yeah, I have a FXT top mount, it just isn't at my house yet. So that is coming. I'm still waiting on the oil return plug for the oil pan so I can button everything up and take it out on a test run. The 22e ECU will drive that motor just fine as long as you use the stock sensors for that car. The only thing you will need to watch for is running too lean. A manual boost controller and a 12:1 FMU seems to do the trick to fine tune the fueling until you get the wire harness merged. I'm doing the same motor build to replace this one once I have enough time and money to spend on it. The vf11/vf12 just seems like the perfect turbo setup for these second gens to just get a little boost without pushing the car too hard. And boost gauge installed last night. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted February 1, 2014 Share Posted February 1, 2014 I'm going to try it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blankdeluxe Posted February 3, 2014 Author Share Posted February 3, 2014 Exhaust put on over the weekend. The first gen turbo leg exhaust doesn't quite fit our second gens but its close. I had to add 3 inches of tubing to the mid pipe to get the hangers to line up right but aside from that it was mostly a bolt on affair. I basically ended up removing the cats and just running 2.5 inch all the way back to my 4 inch muffler. I'm not sure how loud this will be with no cats and 2.5 inch all the way but we will see. I still have to figure out what I'm going to do with my rear o2 now but at least its together and will work for now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCEJ22E1 Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 It will sound beautiful. I'd also say that at 5psi, that 22e is producing power very close to about 190-200bhp. I've seen them pushed as far as 10psi but those engines didn't last too long afterwards. Your "safe" limit would be about 6-7psi with everything sorted out. W/25D heads, you could have a nice bit of fun, especially with slightly thicker than stock gaskets where 10psi will mean nothing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 I'd also say that at 5psi, that 22e is producing power very close to about 190-200bhp. I've seen them pushed as far as 10psi but those engines didn't last too long afterwards. Your "safe" limit would be about 6-7psi with everything sorted out. W/25D heads, you could have a nice bit of fun, especially with slightly thicker than stock gaskets where 10psi will mean nothing. According to Wikipedia the stock 22T is 163 bhp but the compression is 8:1ish. Stock boost is 8.7 psi. That's an interesting idea about using 25D heads. They are easy enough to find out here and pretty cheap. I might have to give it a try and see what happens. What do you think the setup would require? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCEJ22E1 Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 According to Wikipedia the stock 22T is 163 bhp but the compression is 8:1ish. Stock boost is 8.7 psi. That's an interesting idea about using 25D heads. They are easy enough to find out here and pretty cheap. I might have to give it a try and see what happens. What do you think the setup would require? He's got slightly better breathing heads & a high compression ratio (good for off-boost power), which by themselves on the block, achieve 135bhp & considering that you gain on average of about 10-11bhp per psi, my numerical guesses are pretty close to the power that engine is putting out. OP, if you haven't gapped the spark plugs to .028, now's the time to do it. The engine will rev quicker & the heat generated by the compression/ignition won't be as high as it likely is now, so pre-ignition will be down. 1997-1999 25D head/22E block combo requires the following: 1997- 1999 25D heads, intake manifold, dipstick, oil pump, & black coolant pipe. 1997-1999 25D timing gear/accessories. 22E block & head gaskets (make sure they are MLS & a little thicker than stock.) 25D ECU (preferred since it runs richer than the 22E unit). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 Right! I figured the higher comp of the 22e would result in quite a lot more power under boost. Blankdeluxe, Ima not trying to threadjack but thisa good place to discuss dis (ima learning English on donksnob lmao). What I want to try is to use my 22T block with forged internals with a 8.1:1 comp ratio and either a 22e or 25 ecu. I don't know if the 95 22e ecu shares the same pinouts as the 25d ecu or if they are interchangeable. The 22e and 22d injectors are 330cc whereas the first gen tleg injectors are 440cc. So ill have to calculate how much boost the 330cc injectors could handle with a rrffpr or source some tleg injectors. The stock 22t puts out 163 bhp but puts out a bit more ft lbs of torque. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blankdeluxe Posted February 5, 2014 Author Share Posted February 5, 2014 Threadjack away. This is as good of a place to talk turbo builds as any. Get all the possible ideas for builds that do work in one place. My car finally started and ran yesterday. Pushing right as 4.5psi right now. Run really good for the most part. I have a few exhaust leaks that I will have to take care of this weekend but I'm really happy with everything as of now. The car actually got a little quieter with the catless and turbo setup then it was with the 2 inch and cats before hand. The only real problem that I'm seeing it once the car gets warmed up if I push in the clutch at speed the rpms will drop and the car with die. As long as I just tap the gas for a second it seems to work fine but it does keep getting pretty low rpms once its warmed up. Any idea on that? And I still haven't gone WOT so I'm not sure how it will act when I do that. Don't want to blow the car up the first day I have it running again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCEJ22E1 Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 The turbocharger absorbs a lot of the noise that the engine produces into the exhaust. Did you gap your plugs to .028? As for the idle dropping until the engine stalls, check your intake for any kind of vacuum leak as turbocharged cars HATE vacuum leaks. Also, get a air/fuel ratio meter, oil pressure gauge, & oil temp gauge. You will also need a coolant temp sensor & exhaust temp sensor. These will help you keep an eye on things down to the last detail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blankdeluxe Posted February 6, 2014 Author Share Posted February 6, 2014 The turbocharger absorbs a lot of the noise that the engine produces into the exhaust. Did you gap your plugs to .028? As for the idle dropping until the engine stalls, check your intake for any kind of vacuum leak as turbocharged cars HATE vacuum leaks. Also, get a air/fuel ratio meter, oil pressure gauge, & oil temp gauge. You will also need a coolant temp sensor & exhaust temp sensor. These will help you keep an eye on things down to the last detail. The plugs are one step colder and gapped at .032. Why do I want to gap down to .028 instead of the .032 that its currently at? I'll check on vacuum when I get some time, I'm pretty sure there is a small leak in the 90* elbow that came off the tleg. And A/F, Oil Pressure, and coolant temp are next on the list. I know I should have them in already but I just can't spend any more money on this til next month. So its more easy driving until I can at least see what my a/f is doing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted February 6, 2014 Share Posted February 6, 2014 Those turbo inlet elbows are notorious for cracking and impossible to order a new one so don't even bother trying. Luckily I found one in Canada. It is possible to fix them if you use the right type of epoxy. I used JB Qwik with success when my new one promptly split after installation. It will run like crap with a leak though since unmetered air is getting into the system since it is downstream from the MAF. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blankdeluxe Posted February 7, 2014 Author Share Posted February 7, 2014 I may end up just getting rid of that elbow all together and just building an intake pipe that has all the ports I need. Thanks for the heads up on them all being worn out so I don't waste any time looking for a used one just to find out its going to leak too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 martimus919 from bbslegacycentral did a setup like this: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=49555 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blankdeluxe Posted February 7, 2014 Author Share Posted February 7, 2014 martimus919 from bbslegacycentral did a setup like this: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=49555 Yeah, I saw that one when I was looking around over there. I have a section of 3 inch pipe that I have already drilled and welded a few fittings on I just need to get an elbow and then piece it all together. I'm waiting until I have my top mount on sunday before I put any more work into this current setup. Getting everything fitted is a pain. And I don't have a stock air box anymore either. My was cracked and pretty trashed so I just went to pod filter and Maf adapter. Makes the intake super loud but its been running good since I swapped over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCEJ22E1 Posted February 7, 2014 Share Posted February 7, 2014 The plugs are one step colder and gapped at .032. Why do I want to gap down to .028 instead of the .032 that its currently at? To ensure that pre-ignition and/or detonation are minimized & to ensure a safer, smoother combustion process. Believe it or not, the gap is VERY important to longevity as too large a gap will cause a turbo engine to have problems. Misfiring is BAD for the piston tops of a turbo car & our pistons cannot stand it. The MAX gap for a 2.2L turbo for stock gap should be .030, minimum .028. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98 OB RNV Posted February 8, 2014 Share Posted February 8, 2014 I wish I had pics of my 93 Turbo Sedan. I fitted the WRX TD04 with a WRX top mount and BOV. I had to make some customizations to the hood. I even was able to get a STi hood scoop on it. I was making 8-9 boost with stock edu. I also had a Greddy boost controller so not to blow it up, but that didn't help because racing a WRX, (who couldn't figure why a stock looking old Legacy was smoking him) I leaned it out. Its been years since that car and I had a Subaru master mech help me with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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