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i need to do head gaskets on my ej22, and everyone ive talked to at my school (i go to UTI near philly) says u gotta pull the motor.....i dont have the time or the resources to do that. anyone know of a flat rate way to do the headgaskets without the motor comin out? or if i have to pull it anyone know of a rebuild kit i could get? might as well if the motors comin out.
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I've done 2.2 in the car. It's the 2.5 that is nearly impossible to do in car. Do yourself a favor and drop at least the section of exhaust right under the engine. It will make life easier.

On the 2.2 you don't even have to remove the valve covers. Just keep in mind that there are a few of the head bolts that must stay partially in the head during removal and install, there isn't enough room to remove or install them once the head is matted to the block.

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If there is no stripped bolts, maybe 45 minutes to pull it oit, but I have piled proble 30 of them. First time I would think a few hours, maybe 2? I went to UTI 10 years ago, they let us work on our cars on certain days in the shop. Did the stop allowing you to do that?
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kinda, they let you work on your cars during some classes but it has to relate to the class, and we got open shop. open shop is for small stuff the biggest ive heard of being done in open shop is struts and a an alignment, no one lets you pull motors or anything close to that now days
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Man, I wish it would be that easy me to pull a motor. At 50 and a bad back I don't think I'm up to it (my back was getting sore just putting in my brake brace last week!). I would love to get one of these bad headgasket cars really cheap, pull the motor, do the headgaskets and timing belt, put her back in and ride. You all make it sound so easy!
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Man, I wish it would be that easy me to pull a motor. At 50 and a bad back I don't think I'm up to it (my back was getting sore just putting in my brake brace last week!). I would love to get one of these bad headgasket cars really cheap, pull the motor, do the headgaskets and timing belt, put her back in and ride. You all make it sound so easy!

 

not when the car is your only car and you only have 2 days to get the whole job done your first time or your screwed....

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so this may be a stupid question to bring up after all these answers but, what exactly do i need to do to change the headgaskets? and if i do this witch im going to have to do soon what else should i do while im at it? assuming i take the motor out
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Complete timing belt kit (including tensioner & idler pulleys), replace front and rear crankshaft and cam seals with Subaru OEM seals, replace the plastic spacer between the engine and transmission with a metal one... probably some other things if anyone else wants to chime in...
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As previously said its doable in car but flat rate would be pull the engine. Last one I did I had the engine out, on the stand, and heads off in just over an hour. Total time drive in to drive out is usually about 3 hours if I'm left alone.
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Lol..one would think so, pulling a motor like that could get your self hurt..they are awkward and you have to lift it about 3" to clear the dust cover for the flywheel and motor mount bolts, then pull up and out, then the oil pan is pretty deep. The motor will need to be about 3.5-4 feet off the ground to clear the upper radiator support. Honestly 2 people huddled around that motor is too many, and 2 people pulling that by hand wouldn't be enough. I'm only inserting this post for safety reasons.
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Sometime if you have a good block and tackle and a sturdy overhead pull point you can pull a motor without a hoist. When I was a kid, my dad and I pulled the engine out of our Pinto using one attached to a roof truss in our garage with no problems (not sure of the weight difference between the old Pinto 2.0 liter 4 and a boxer engine- guessing the boxer is lighter).
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Lol..one would think so, pulling a motor like that could get your self hurt..they are awkward and you have to lift it about 3" to clear the dust cover for the flywheel and motor mount bolts, then pull up and out, then the oil pan is pretty deep. The motor will need to be about 3.5-4 feet off the ground to clear the upper radiator support. Honestly 2 people huddled around that motor is too many, and 2 people pulling that by hand wouldn't be enough. I'm only inserting this post for safety reasons.

 

If you attach a chain or a SAFE type of lifting strap, a team of four could have it out without too much drama. A few spare 4"x4" blocks inserted under the mounts as the engine is raised, then lifted out all the way with a steel bar (not a 2x4!) until it clears the radiator support...

 

You're absolutely correct, though, that safety should be the #1 concern. It's not worth someone loosing a hand or a finger to save a few bucks, even in this limited work area situation.

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Any rental shops in your area? Should be able to rent a hoist for about $30-40 for a half day. Oh, and I agree with those that say don't do it by hand. That is just asking for injuries to both people and vehicle.

 

And don't forget to remove the anti-pivot rod, and support the trans as you pull the engine out.

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