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Build Questions/Suggestions - 06 Leg GT


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Alright Guys and gals. I am going to begin building my 06 Leg GT. Currently I have done aftermarket suspension, Cobb tuner, catless exhaust system, up and down pipe, and ACT WRX clutch setup. This is a 5 speed manual car. It was my daily driver, but now it's now my toy track car. What should I be looking at doing next? maybe injectors, e-85, turbo and FMIC? Give me some guidance here. Let me know what brands to look at and parts you all like.

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110,xxx miles. My hope is to end up somewhere in the 350 to 400 hp range without just killing a budget. You think it's possible? I want a good all around street/track car.

 

so much fail in those statements. 400 hp is going to be expensive, especially if you goto a racetrack (not drag strip). You are going to be going thru tires at the rate one set for every 3-4 days. Brakes (pads/rotors/fluid) will be every 1-2 days. Corner balance and alignment every 5-10 days, depending on how many off track excursions you have. Figure wheel bearings to fail at an astonishing rate (I had a set fail in 30 mintues). If you like your car to be pretty, start searching for undertrays and front bumpers in your car's color. Expect to be replacing parts at a good rate.

 

Take a track driving class. Then take another one. Keep taking them until the instructor tells you the car is slowing you down. Then change one thing. Start all over again.

 

Of course, you are smarter than the rest of us, so you'll do something else. Start saving money, as a highly modded LGT tends to get very expensive on the track.

 

If you are really serious, you'll need safety equipment (find a road race performance shop and get a full fire safety clothing set). Start looking into a harness, preferably one attached to a roll-cage.

 

Expect to have 2 sets of wheels/tires, likewise brakes (street + track). Learn how do to do all the work yourself.

 

My sig link has a diary of what I went thru tracking my LGT. It's a blast, but its not cheap. You'll be money ahead to stop now and buy a spec Miata. Trust me when I say this.

 

Use the search function for tracking LGT, or look in motorsports section about taking your car to the track.

 

At 110k miles, you have a transmission rebuild in your very near future. If you haven't done the timing belt, do it now. Get the KillerB oil pan and overfill a bit when you goto the track. You'll be burning oil at a good clip.

 

Lastly, 300lbs of TQ at the wheels with a front LSD would be a wicked fun track car. HP is not relevant. If you are convinced you can do it on a stock block, be sure to search for LosAngelesLGT's thread on his track experiences.

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The 400hp isn't expensive compared to other cars and I don't agree with tires/rotors so quickly either.

 

Op I think your biggest problem will be getting a safe track tune. Race fuel will be a must and your build will need to take into account long periods of high temp. Your tune may need to reduce redline to save the motor.

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Follow up. If this is your first track car keep in mind service intervals are very different. Up keep is a PITA. Depending how fast you are and the lines you take different stuff will wear. Ie bad lines kill tires. Faster drivers eat pads.

 

Get into a good set of carbotech pads and you won't been replacing them too soon.

 

My suggestion would be to get the tires/brakes/tune track ready now and start tracking. The power difference you're seeking won't make up faster until you're skill exceeds the power.

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The 400hp isn't expensive compared to other cars and I don't agree with tires/rotors so quickly either.

 

Op I think your biggest problem will be getting a safe track tune. Race fuel will be a must and your build will need to take into account long periods of high temp. Your tune may need to reduce redline to save the motor.

 

the only truth here is a tune optimzed for the track. A lower redline and lower boost will keep your engine alive for longer time. Race fuel (unblended >100 octane unleaded fuel) will cut down on knock, but it won't make you faster, just broke faster. Figure 6 - 10 mpg on the track.

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Follow up. If this is your first track car keep in mind service intervals are very different. Up keep is a PITA. Depending how fast you are and the lines you take different stuff will wear. Ie bad lines kill tires. Faster drivers eat pads.

 

Get into a good set of carbotech pads and you won't been replacing them too soon.

 

My suggestion would be to get the tires/brakes/tune track ready now and start tracking. The power difference you're seeking won't make up faster until you're skill exceeds the power.

 

fast laps kill tires. Street tires go fast regardless of lapping speed. Poor driving skills kill all kinds of tires at nearly an equal rate.

 

brand of brake pad won't make any difference. As long as you are buying pads rated for high heat, ie track pads.

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the only truth here is a tune optimzed for the track. A lower redline and lower boost will keep your engine alive for longer time. Race fuel (unblended >100 octane unleaded fuel) will cut down on knock, but it won't make you faster, just broke faster. Figure 6 - 10 mpg on the track.

 

I didn't mention being faster. Fuel/tune will be huge in saving him buying a $6k motor.

 

fast laps kill tires. Street tires go fast regardless of lapping speed. Poor driving skills kill all kinds of tires at nearly an equal rate.

 

brand of brake pad won't make any difference. As long as you are buying pads rated for high heat, ie track pads.

 

Feel like it's going to be a battle again on this.

 

He can get into a reasonable wear track tire that will last longer then you've stated. He doesn't need r-comps for his first season. A reasonable high performance summer tire will be more then enough. but that said he also doesn't need 350-400hp to become fast at the track.

 

Not all pads are made equal regardless of their temp rating. I've touched on this already and will avoid our hawk experience convo again :)

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Thanks for the info guys. I should of given more detail in my earlier questions. I am not new to tracking, just new with this car. I ran a miata, MR2, and a WRX for several years on the scca circuit! While I know I don't need the power for the track, I would like to have it on the street. Maybe it's not possible to satisfy both power needs. But I'd like to try!
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Thanks for the info guys. I should of given more detail in my earlier questions. I am not new to tracking, just new with this car. I ran a miata, MR2, and a WRX for several years on the scca circuit! While I know I don't need the power for the track, I would like to have it on the street. Maybe it's not possible to satisfy both power needs. But I'd like to try!

 

A track car doesn't street well.

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Thanks for the info guys. I should of given more detail in my earlier questions. I am not new to tracking, just new with this car. I ran a miata, MR2, and a WRX for several years on the scca circuit! While I know I don't need the power for the track, I would like to have it on the street. Maybe it's not possible to satisfy both power needs. But I'd like to try!

what's your budget? That's going to have biggest impact on your build. Lgt is much heavier than your other track cars with much work required to reach same level of performance. You'll never reach Miata handling. Even wrx has much better options...wider tire/wheel support, many more tuning options, etc.

 

lgt is more of sport touring car, which it does very well. Idk what you did the wrx, but expect the same level of build up and more to reach almost same perf.

 

oil is going to be a bigger issue than it was in wrx. Turbo is a weak link in this car.

 

regardless of rob-2's comments, you should decide which is more important: an scca worthy track car or a super fun road car that sees light lapping. Scca racecar will be stupid money. Super fun street car would be better approach. Depending on how much you want to yourself, $5k or less will give you alot of room for fun. Running over 300hp on a high mileage stock block is playing with fire. Running same on the track, especially if you have not being taking care of it all along, is best handled by preparing your next motor while driving this one.

 

suspension with coilovers can be managed by agressively alignment and corner balancing. Camber is your friend. So are chassis braces.

 

braking system is very good, once you upgrade the pads to higher heat range. It will benefit from cooling ducts regardless of whose marketing you believe.

 

seats are not the most supportive under high lateral g. I have full leather and slid all over. Aftermarket race seats will make a big difference.

 

engine mods should be aimed at keeping it cool, avoiding knock, and keeping the oil in the engine. The engine is very sensitive to ccw tracks, with complete oil loss possible in a 20 minutes session.

 

read thru the tech forum sections for more targeted info. Keep in mind there are very few serious lapping people on the forum. There are alot of people who talk a big game and only drive in GT5. Good luck with your build.

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