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96 outback wagon recon


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I work at a dealership that took a 1996 legacy outback wagon as a trade. Body wise its in good shape now for some technical info

 

96 legacy outback wagon 2.5 engine 163,xxx miles auto trans price $800

 

Is there any thing I should specifically look for, it has some small oil leaks and needs rear struts bad, just normal wear and tear. I know to check the clutch packs in the coupler by turning sharp and slow, any thing else? I currently own a 2008 impreza obs I'm hoping this will be a good addition the family.

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Also drive it around and make some tight turns. Make sure you don't feel any binding or shaking in the turns- that could indicate binding clutch plates in the transmission/ transfer case. I test drove an Impreza that felt like that- about a $1,000 repair if I had bought it.
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Are you sure it doesn't have the bullet proof 2.2 in it?

 

 

Ya 96 was the first year the 2.5 was an option as was the auto trans for the outback. The 2.2 would have been nice tho. I did drive a short distance yesterday and it didn't shutter when turning but it does need throttle input to keep moving. Is this normal for the gen 2? Did this on pavement and gravel and it didn't sound like it was locked in 4wd in the gravel. As for the head gaskets I've heard they were problematic on the 2.5, I'll just do a block test and check for combustion gasses in the coolant

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it didn't shutter when turning but it does need throttle input to keep moving.

test drive it again.

this could be torque bind.

 

 

 

I'll just do a block test and check for combustion gasses in the coolant
the coolant test might / should tell you something.

the block test will not, not usually.

especially when the HG leak is new.

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if left untreated, assuming you actually have TB, you put extra stress on the drive line.

any thing from the axles to the drive shaft/ universals.

but usually no real failures unless it is really long term and really severe binding.

 

in your case, it could just be slight binding due to dirty ATF.

replace that and it can eliminate the problem.

 

also check the tires, they all need to be with 1/4 inch in circumference. not diameter.

so look to make sure they are all the same brand, size, tread, wear, and pressure.

a low tire can make a difference.

as well as worn tires on the front.

 

but if it does not feel like a 4wd truck on dry pavement with locked hubs, it is likely fluid will help.

dirty fluid can gum up the duty c solenoid for the transfer clutch and this can cause binding.

 

my 95 lego had slight binding when i got it.

this was before i paid attention or knew anything about car maintenance.

i bought it at a repo auction with 75k,

drove it 90k more and only changed the oil.

it had slight binding the whole time.

i though it was normal.

 

then the trans failed.

i installed a used trans, $900 parts and labor,

and drove the car another 40k and sold it.

 

i doubt the trans would have failed if i had changed the fluid when i bought it.

and it is well documented that clean fresh fluid will cure SOME cases of binding.

 

this car sounds well worth the $800 asking price.

drive it a few weeks, months, a year, and sell it for $2500, easy.

 

where are you located.?

does it snow in kansas?

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Ya it snows last winter we had a couple 12 inch + storms doesnt happen every year though. Checked the coolant res. and there are bubbles and an oily sheen on top so it needs head gaskets :icon_mad:

 

 

Snowing right now actually its not going to stick

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Does the ej22 drop right in, im guessing you would need the 2.2 pcm as well? im looking at about $600 in parts for the head gasket set new bolts and timing belt/pulleys and water pump. I can do the work my self so that helps. Where is the ABS diagnostic port, i was trying to pull codes and cant find it any where, i read it is on the right side of the steering column but i dont see it.
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Second Gen. Factory Service Manuals/Literature

 

the ej22 is plug and play, no wiring , no computer.

but there are details you need to know.

do a search for ej22 swap by me.

i have listed the info more than once.

 

same with the HG job .

i would not get a kit unless you get discount prices through the dealer.

a kit will have tons of parts you will not use.

 

and i buy my timing parts from ''theimportexperts'' on ebay.

quality parts at a fair price.

you can buy cheaper, but not better for the money.

 

cam & crank seals, water pump gasket, oil pump o-ring, and oil separator plate from an online dealer.

or local dealer at wholsale price.

you may be able to get better pricing than that.

 

and no matter what any one says DO NOT replace the head bolts unless they are bad.

the FSM does not call for new bolts.

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ok so i found an ej 22 with 157,000 miles aprox from a 97 legacy fairly close to me ill need the y-pipe since it has single port heads any thing else. Will the exhaust bolt up to the factory location? Ive ask about the egr and if it was on the motor (no reply yet) if not ill just do the bypass to keep the light off. Also do you guys think it will fit in the back of a 08 impreza Obs?
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  • 2 weeks later...

So i bought the car and tore in to the engine everything was going great until it came time to bolt the camshafts down. I was using the fsm found here https://docs.google.com/folderview?id=0B6P6dybMMzg9cUhqWm4yV012d28&usp=drive_web&tid=0B6P6dybMMzg9Z004U05OVHFFMWM

 

It says the torque spec of the cap bolts is 14 +- 1.4 ft lbs this is not correct as I found out with a broken bolt. So now I get to pull the motor to extract the bolt. Found the proper spec to be 82-95 in lbs. live and learn I guess.

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So i bought the car and tore in to the engine everything was going great until it came time to bolt the camshafts down. I was using the fsm found here https://docs.google.com/folderview?id=0B6P6dybMMzg9cUhqWm4yV012d28&usp=drive_web&tid=0B6P6dybMMzg9Z004U05OVHFFMWM

 

It says the torque spec of the cap bolts is 14 +- 1.4 ft lbs this is not correct as I found out with a broken bolt. So now I get to pull the motor to extract the bolt. Found the proper spec to be 82-95 in lbs. live and learn I guess.

 

 

Huh. That's a bummer, what page/spec were you looking at? Page 7 shows the cam cap bolts as a T3 on the torque scale which is 7 ft-lb.

 

I just had to drill and extract a water crossover pipe bolt that didn't want to come out, even being super careful, I ended up having to heli-coil it. I wish you the best of the luck.

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Huh. That's a bummer, what page/spec were you looking at? Page 7 shows the cam cap bolts as a T3 on the torque scale which is 7 ft-lb.

 

I just had to drill and extract a water crossover pipe bolt that didn't want to come out, even being super careful, I ended up having to heli-coil it. I wish you the best of the luck.

 

Pages 32 and 44 shown as t2. Im not too upset about it though only thing i have to remove to pull the engine is the starter and torque converter nuts, so maybe an hours work to get it out, on the plus side it will make getting the timing correct much easier. I'm just glad i work in a shop and have all the tools to do the job.

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Pages 32 and 44 shown as t2. Im not too upset about it though only thing i have to remove to pull the engine is the starter and torque converter nuts, so maybe an hours work to get it out, on the plus side it will make getting the timing correct much easier. I'm just glad i work in a shop and have all the tools to do the job.

 

Wow, that is a little disconcerting, definitely two different torque specs for what appears to be the same bolt. I wonder if the manual covers two different engine models? It didn't look like it to me, but I don't know why else it would have different torque values.

 

It turns out I'm a little cunfused anyhow though. Are you working on a 2.2 or a 2.5? You said you got a 2.2 from a 97 legacy, but you are working from the 96 2.5 service manual?:confused: Did you not buy the 2.2 and are just fixing up the 2.5?

 

I am definitely a fan of pulling the motor to do head gaskets and timing, you're so far into the motor, why not just pull the last few bolts and work on it on a stand? Much easier, and you'll definitely get a better quality result. I'm doing a 2.2 right now, just have to get a few gaskets, and wait for the new clutch to appear on my doorstep!:)

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I decided just to repair the motor(2.5 dohc) that was already in the car, I figured it would cheaper in the long run and if done correctly i wont have to worry about it again for a long time. Its also about 20 hp and 20 ft/torque more powerful than the 2.2
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