viperrgh2 Posted August 4, 2013 Share Posted August 4, 2013 My brother just got a 96 legacy gt, the oil was practically empty turns out oil was shooting out from behind the broken plastic timing belt cover. I got more access to it looks like oil is either spitting out from the bottom of the sensor above the crankshaft or from the crankshaft bearing gasket seal whatever it may be. Anyone have this problem before can I fix it without taking the engine block part? Thanks, Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted August 4, 2013 Share Posted August 4, 2013 assuming it has not run so low on oil that the bearings are damaged, you can fix this. you need to a timing belt job and replace all the seals on the front of the engine. the timing belt is due every 105k miles. if the belt , or more likely one of the pulleys it rides on fails you will end up with bent valves. don't delay on the timing belt. you will also want to replace the cam seals, the crank seal, and remove, clean and re-seal the oil pump, including a new o-ring. the valve cover gaskets may also be leaking. the timing belt and front seals can be done with the engine in the car. the timing belt parts will run you about $140 on EBAY from ''theimportexperts''. the seals will run toy about $45 from a dealer, less for an online dealer. so for about $200, a days labor, you can reseal the engine and be set to run another 100k miles. there is lots of info here so do a search. i posted some good timing info last week in the 3rd gen section. NOTE: subaru's timing setup is different than any other can maker. DO NOT assume you can get it correct just because you have done other engines in the past. read up, you need to KNOW what you are doing before you start. if you do it wrong you will bend valves. from last weeks post. the timing marks are hash marks like this ''|'' not the arrows. CRANK the hash mark on the crank sprocket is located on the rear of the sprocket. there is a flange with ''tabs'', the timing mark is on one of those. some of the later sprockets have a ''zillion'' tiny taps. the sprockets from the 90s have about 6. TIP: the key way slot on the crank and sprocket is supposed to be down in the 6 oclock position when the crank is lined up right. CAM the hash mark on the cams is located on the outer edge of the front face of the sprocket. this mark aligns with a cut in the timing cover or the head behind the sprocket pulley. the hash mark should be straight up in the 12 oclock position. NOT the ARROWS, NEVER the ARROWS. the driver side cam will be ''loaded'', but it should sit still when positioned correctly. if it jumps after you position it try again in a slightly different position. the passenger side cam will be at rest, no load, no worries. it is not unusual for one pulley to be a tooth off after your first attempt to set it. if so try again. one tooth makes a big difference. 1/2 a tooth may be ok. rotate the crank by hand 2 full rotations after you install the belt and check the alignment marks again, pulley to engine, not belt. if the belt has marks on it they will not line up for something like 700 rotations. if you are re-using the tensioner, make sure it is in the upright position when you compress the piston. (piston pointing up & down.) if you do it with it on its side you can damage it. and compress it SLOWLY, VERY SLOWLY. a new tensioner will come compressed. but if you get it wrong the first time and need to redo it, be careful. a note for the mechanic, subaru timing belt rookies are always looking for TDC. you do not need to do that. i only know subarus, but apparently this is different than ANY other engine on earth. suabru gives you very specific timing alignment marks which eliminate that requirement. the correct timing alignment marks locate all 4 pistons at mid- stroke. this eliminates any possibility of valve to piston damage. they even did this on their ''non-interference'' engines which do not have valve / piston interference.. good luck. please apologize to the mechanic if he already knew this stuff. i'm just try to help. and the stuff mentioned here are more common mistakes than you might think. do a search and read up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viperrgh2 Posted August 5, 2013 Author Share Posted August 5, 2013 a friend of mine suggested I clamp the belt to the timing gears, put the cotter pin the hydraulic piece and just take the crank gear off to replace the crank seal which is where it's clearly comming from after further removal does this sound like a valid plan? If i can just get another 10,000 out of this car i'd be happy... Also where can I find the center timing cover mine was all cracked up letting dirt/sand in there which is think is what led to this problem.. thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted August 5, 2013 Share Posted August 5, 2013 how many miles are on the car? you can find used parts at www.car-part.com but if you are only interested in a year i would not bother. lots of folks run without them, especially off roaders. much easier to replace the belt with no covers. to get to the crank seal, you have to remove the covers, belt, crank pulley and crank sprocket. once those pieces are removed the other 3 pulleys are fully exposed along with the tensoiner and the water pump. do you have to use new parts? no of course not!! but the seal did not fail because it was installed wrong last year. it most likely failed for one of two reasons, either it was really old or it was a cheap part. chances are that the other seals are the same age and condition. i had a cam seal fail at 208k miles. i think i had it replaced at 165k, but i'm not sure. but if this is a throw away car then just do the least you can. and hope it last as long as you need. but in my life experience, things don't often go according to plan. you think 10k is all you need, but what if you need 20k. or even better what if you could get 60k out of it. it sounds like you are on a budget. in that case i would open it up and check all the parts. if the belt ($40) looks old, cracked, or worn, replace it. check the pulleys, the bearings, for noise and spin. they should be quiet and tight. if any are loose and or noisy, replace it. the toothed idler pulley is usually the one that fails the most often. so if you are not going to replace them all, consider replacing at least that one. the tensioner piston rarely fails. the water pump ($50) is probably good, if it has ever been replaced before. so check it. if it is as old as the car it will not last forever. here's something else to consider. you can get a timing belt , 3 pulleys, tensioner pulley and water pump off ebay as i mentioned for $135. (if you call them they will add the seals.) buying any pulley alone is going to cost you $50. the belt is $40, the pump is $50 plus probably $70. if you open it up and need any 2 items, you will be better with the kit. how many miles are on the car? i can't tell you what to do. it is your car and your money. good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tr00b Posted August 5, 2013 Share Posted August 5, 2013 This probably isn't the problem but on some Chrysler cars the main bearings wear out or in their case suck from the factory and the crankshaft endplay causes them to throw crank seals. I would check that before throwing a belt on... also if the sealing surface on the crank is scored it will leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivant Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 My brother just got a 96 legacy gt, the oil was practically empty turns out oil was shooting out from behind the broken plastic timing belt cover. I got more access to it looks like oil is either spitting out from the bottom of the sensor above the crankshaft or from the crankshaft bearing gasket seal whatever it may be. Anyone have this problem before can I fix it without taking the engine block part? Thanks, Rob I have a 97 legacy have always had an oil leak from the front crank oil seal. I have replaced it many times, but it only seems to stop it for so long, then starts leaking again. Someone told me that I need to take the external oil pump off and turn it over and tighten the philips screws on the inside of it and put a new o-ring on and then reseal it back on to the motor. I will do this next time and see if it stops the leak. I have had the timing belt off so many times that I could do it with my eyes closed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 it could be the oil pump, so doing that is a good idea. it could be a scratch on the crank shaft. no seal will work if the crank is scratched. but if a new seal works for a while, it may not be a scratch, idk. i have no experience with a scratched crank. what brand of seal are you using? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pleaidestar Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 Go over it with a piece of emory cloth, or a fine scotch bright. Does the crank wobble or anything? Also where that woodruff key sits in the crank gear could have a raised edge its a common issue if it has been removed for service. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viperrgh2 Posted August 8, 2013 Author Share Posted August 8, 2013 changed the seal with one of from the dealership, no more leak, the clamp technique worked well.. will try the pump if it happens again... thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivant Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 it could be the oil pump, so doing that is a good idea. it could be a scratch on the crank shaft. no seal will work if the crank is scratched. but if a new seal works for a while, it may not be a scratch, idk. i have no experience with a scratched crank. what brand of seal are you using? Seal is a Motorola from Repco, about 20 bucks from memory. They any good ? What type would you suggest using ? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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