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Throttle stop and adjustment


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I noticed that my 95 Legacy has (X) amount of space between the throttle and the throttle stop. The 95 Legacy runs great and I am wondering if my 97 Outback that has some running issues could benefit from adjusting the screw that would adjust the gap at the throttle stop. It would make the computer change the base idle and the TPS.

 

I've been giving several tries at checking the voltage at the TPS but it seems odd. Plus the Haynes manual is not clear about the wires to use for voltage or signal. If only they had used the color of the wires. The Haynes manual has the TPS oriented upside down but do they mean that even if the TPS is upside down the wires are also upside down? This I know, Haynes does get some things wrong.

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I understand that the computer controls idle. That leaves me with questions:

 

 

  1. Why is the 95 adjusted and it runs great
  2. Why is there even an adjustment screw
  3. Is the throttle plate supposed to be set at 0.00 tolerance

 

 

DO NOT ADJUST THE SET SCREW.

 

the computer controls the idle, if you adjust it you will just screw things up.

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rough idle is usually a air leak, vac, problem or bad wires / plugs.

 

have you tried spraying around the engine hoses with carb cleaner or the like.

if there is an air leak the idle should serge when it sucks in the spray.

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If you unplug the throttle position while its running you will see that the ecu takes care of throttle with out that screw. Those cable cams could have been manufactured when subaru used single port injection and made them work with mpi. Subaru is good about not throwing things away, causes an easy transition between generations.

 

Those screws are most likely set at 0.00 because if you look at the butterfly with the tps engaged it is open just enough to keep an idle, if you remove the tps the butterfly will close and the cable cam will rest on the screw.

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Yes on all below.

 

I get (from memory here) about 20 on the vac gauge but it has a shake of a half or 1 degree. Very fast shake without any swings.

 

I have yet to check compression and timing marks.

 

I did notice that the rear portion of the timing belt cover on the side of the cam sensor is broken and missing a large chunk. Yuck I didn't notice that when I was doing the look over at purchase. Who would have thought.

 

Aside from the all the possible other problems that could happen......does the cam sensor need it to be dark to work?

 

 

 

rough idle is usually a air leak, vac, problem or bad wires / plugs.

 

have you tried spraying around the engine hoses with carb cleaner or the like.

if there is an air leak the idle should serge when it sucks in the spray.

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