urdrwho Posted June 28, 2013 Share Posted June 28, 2013 I decided to take out a big chunk of Subbie rust. The area I removed was large, went the entire way through to the point I could see the filler neck, etc. After installing metal and filing with body filler, I reached a problem point. The wheel arch has a rubber trim piece that must fit on a lip. You can see the rubber piece in the picture. If body filler didn't cure so quickly I could make a lip for the rubber to fit into or even fashion a metal bead to fit around the arch. Any ideas on finishing off the wheel arch? I could just make the arch and then attach the rubber with trim adhesive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sludgeroo Posted June 28, 2013 Share Posted June 28, 2013 If you are talking about the little metal spined rubber strip... keep it out! That's the reason you are having this issue. As with all Subaru owners. There isn't adequate draining in that area and that strip holds in moisture and it starts rotting that inner pinch weld. Just finish it so it looks clean, but I wouldnt worry about the cosmetic aspects. You'll have the hard work you did last a lot longer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pleaidestar Posted June 28, 2013 Share Posted June 28, 2013 Sand it down, etching primer and call it a day. Fyi-you don't absolutley have to mix the cream hardener in the bondo, or will harden on its own on the sun, the hardener was intentionally made for high production purposes. Granted that it will take about a day to completely dry if you are using a thin layer of filler ..but as sludge said those are the cause of the rust problems there. After you are done with the body work get some paintable seam sealer that comes in the bag/tube and brush it on with a paint brush on the inner fender well and let it set for about an hour get some rubberized undercoating to use as a topcoat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sludgeroo Posted June 28, 2013 Share Posted June 28, 2013 Hell, you could plasti dip that edge so it looks like its there. Shouldn't be so noticable since your car is maroon. The seam sealer is a good idea. Just don't get shitty gm grade stuff that is softer than windsheild urethane.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joaks Posted June 28, 2013 Share Posted June 28, 2013 you might be able to attach it with the 3M VHB tape. The right type will hold anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
urdrwho Posted June 29, 2013 Author Share Posted June 29, 2013 Thanks for the info. I've wondered why subbies tend to have the rust in the same places and as mentioned that rubber trim around the arch could be the culprit. I'm seriously thinking that I should pull it off and be done. Plastidip, recently bought some to take care of the peeling black trim at the windows. I am almost done and ready to paint. A bit of glazzing putty for the pin holes and that is it. Last month I went to find my good $$$ seam sealer and it is gone. Errrr. Who moved my stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sludgeroo Posted June 29, 2013 Share Posted June 29, 2013 I would pull them at the least. You can always seal them down the road Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
urdrwho Posted July 1, 2013 Author Share Posted July 1, 2013 I decided to not install the rubber around the wheel arch and went as far as removing the one on the other side. They are nothing more than rust attractors. I finished the arch and did the first blocking today. This is the second primer, I'll probably do about three blocks and then call it quits. This is the 5th car in the family and even though it runs very, very well it is what we kindly call our beater car. I have daily drivers that need more attention. I'm ok with the finished arch. I did go a bit flat toward the rear but it is 1000% better than the mountain of bubbling rust that was formally in the area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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