olympic1

Just a couple/few weeks ago did the spark plugs on my 2012 GT. Taking the battery out on the drivers side is the way to go. I didn't have any issues getting either of them out. On the passenger side didn't even remove the airbox. Now it would be easier to do taking the airbox out but the clamp over the inlet had the screw facing downward and into the fender well with no easy way to get to it so rather than screw around with that I asked my teen son to contort his arms and he was able to get them out no problem. I'd say go for it. Once you get in there you'll get it figured out. I used my ratchet, a wobbler on #2 if I recall correctly, and a couple different length extensions (3", 12" and a longer one that was probably 18" or so) just to give me some options. Used the longer extensions with the wobbler just to clear everything and get some leverage.

 

I'd done this previously on a 2014 2.5i we used to have and same basic procedure except on that one I did remove the airbox if I recall correctly. Gives lots of room if you do that.

No, the OEM fan housing is used and bolt weren't trimmed. Here is a picture showing the concern others had mentioned about the bolt touching the charge pipe. It is poking in maybe 1 mm into the side of the silicon but I can understand how trimming the end of this bolt would make this easier. I looked into a Mishimoto slim fan shroud but decided to not proceed until trying without and it was successful so I saved myself several hundred more dollars.

 

Also these are still available from the AVO US online retailer, wpdusa.com for $328, but you can choose your color =)

 

Thanks for sharing the pic as that shows what people are talking about with the AVO and bolt trimming.

I'm using the AVO CP w/o issue if you're looking for another option if this one isn't available I would look to that.

Did you swap out your passenger side radiator fan to make it fit? I've heard that fitment is doable but some mention some trimming or swapping of the fan.

How do the 9s fit in the front? Could you also send some pics of fitment? I'm lowered about 2 inches but can adjust my coils. I think the 9 with the 25 offset is gonna give me 4 ish centimeters of poke. The back seems to have a ton of room for width right now so not to concerned about that.

I've got the winters on right now so can't get you a detailed pic of the front fitment. I bought the car with the 18x9's on it. Here's a pic with the summer setup that might give you a little bit of an idea how they fit.

Thinking about picking up a set of Cosmis Racing MR7, the spec is 18x9 with a +25 offset. Any thoughts on fitment?

Not sure what tire you are looking at but I have 18x9 +40 with 255/40/18 tires for my summer set and get a little rub on the driver's side rear. I'm on lowering springs and looking at having to roll or grind my driver rear quarter to address this. If you are lowered I'd expect you'll rub.

I'm looking for a high flow catted downpipe to put on my LGT. Anyone have any advice on which brand to go with? I've been looking around for a while, but as you all know, aftermarket parts are a headache to find for these cars..

Been looking into this too. If you were going catless my understanding is the IQ J-pipe is one of the best. For catted I think you are looking at Invidia Catted as not sure if others are still making a catted downpipe for our the fifth gen LGT. Maybe some other members will chime in.

 

If you read up on it you'll find that boost creep can be an issue with many catless downpipes so going catted apparently helps with this issue. The IQ catless design as I understand it doesn't seem to have the boost creep issues so prevalent with other catless designs. In general the recommendation seems to be if putting in an aftermarket j-pipe to consider an aftermarket BPV as well as consider installing an ECBS too.

I have the charge pipe... never even installed it. PM if youre interested.

PM sent.

I have a Racer X intercooler I need to find a home for.

If clubchico15 isn't interested in the Racer X TMIC please let me know as I might be interested. Thanks

If this is still being actively maintained, here's an update to the registry:

OLD:

1005552 -- Titanium105 ----- GGM ---- 09/11 ---- 08/??/14 ---- Oregon ---- Stage 2 ets headers, TBE, boost controller, tune [294whp/346wtq] ---- 2nd owner

NEW:

1005552 -- olympic1 ----- GGM ---- 09/11 ---- ??/??/?? ---- Washington ---- Stage 2 ets headers, TBE, boost controller, tune ---- 3rd owner

 

Thanks!

from what i've seen, remove the bar portion, not the mounts, cut holes in the carpet, and reinstall the bar to the mounts.

Yeah I was just going to come back and post that maybe I could remove the bar and it would fit underneath it, and bolt the bar back on. But, if that won't work then cutting holes would be an option. Thanks!

The car my son recently purchased had the rear interior all stripped out so we (mostly him) are putting a plan together for reassembly. The car has an aftermarket rear strut bar. As a result the carpeted trunk base (the lightweight carpeted board) won't fit properly. It's too wide at the front now due to that strut brace narrowing up the front. One option would be to cut the board down at the front sides so it can slide under that strut bar. Another option might be to raise the trunk base level a couple of inches throughout but that might not work as the board might not have enough clearance to the back of the rear seats since they angle back.

 

I'm just curious how others have dealt with it. Pic attached showing the strut bar in the trunk. Thanks in advance for any guidance.

It looks like this GT might have belonged to this guy if you're on the Fifth Gen Legacy Facebook page https://www.facebook.com/groups/1614599485496235/permalink/2739975812958591/

Thanks. Will try to join the fb group.

Agreed, especially for the mileage. I'm sure there will be lots of questions about those headlights.

Thanks. I don’t have a lot of specifics on the headlights. Here’s what I have about those:

HID headlamps, black housings, 100mm halo, blue demon eyes.

As promised here are a couple of pics.

The jack, accessories *and* the round foam carrier fits inside the full size spare which lays face down. You have to leave out the square foam tray that would sit on top of the stock donut spare.

Okay I see that’s perfect.

Looks like the board I used is 24x24

Thanks for the pics and measurements!

Here’s an example factory jack kit and insert:

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/313187579187

 

I put a full size spare in mine using a 17” WRX wheel I already had and an appropriately sized used tire. It fits in the tire well, just leave out the foam tray. I replaced the tray with a pre cut off the shelf piece of plywood from a big box hardware store, i think it’s 18x18.

Thanks for confirmation that a full size 17" will fit. If you can't fit the foam tray with the full size wheel where are you able to fit a jack?

if you've got a junk yard near you you can probably find a spare and tool kit there...hell you can buy a $30 trolley jack from harbor freight and a 19mm socket and breaker bar and have a better tool kit than subaru would ever supply. not sure if it'd fit but you might be able to grab a full size wheel and tire to keep in there as well...

Yeah checked the local pull and save and spaldings but neither had them in stock. If a full size wheel and tire will fit that is definitely the way to go...just didn't think a full size would fit. And true, I can piece together a better kit on my own than the factory.

if you've got a junk yard near you you can probably find a spare and tool kit there...hell you can buy a $30 trolley jack from harbor freight and a 19mm socket and breaker bar and have a better tool kit than subaru would ever supply. not sure if it'd fit but you might be able to grab a full size wheel and tire to keep in there as well...

I was under the impression a full size wouldn't fit inflated in there. Am I incorrect?

get aaa.

 

running the spare is a limp to the nearest tire store option

Lol. I have Good Sam but I still like to have the spare. Had a flat in Montana once and was glad to have the spare as I was out of cell range.

It didn't come with a spare (or jack or the tray that sits on top of the spare) so I need to source those items. It looks like the spare they came with was T135/70R17 if my forum searches are correct. If someone doesn't mind confirming when they get a chance I would appreciate it. Thanks!

Wanted to provide an update. My son is now the owner of a 2012 Legacy GT. Some concern of the vibration on deceleration and shop not certain if trans or rear diff could be causing it. Those aftermarket mounts throughout really transfer noise. We took that into account and the seller worked with us on price. Passed the inspection otherwise including the compression check and drove it 6 hours home last night. Thanks everyone for your help. I think he’s going to get it cleaned up today (wildfire smoke permitting it might have to wait a day or two) and we’ll post some pics.

thanks coco26 and dgoodhue. The car has been regularly serviced at a Subaru dealer. Seller says he’s asked them about it but they couldn’t find anything. Taking it to a tuner/race shop this morning for inspection in hopes they will have some insight.

Looked at car B today. Going to have a shop do a PPI tomorrow. I noticed a couple things I'm going to have them check. The biggest thing is a vibration noise (hear more than feel) upon deceleration. It's pretty noticeable. It drives, shifts and brakes fine. It's just upon deceleration you have a pretty loud vibration noise. Sounds like it's coming more from the rear but hard to tell. I notice a vibration noise (again noise more than feel) upon acceleration from a stop. It's short lived and seems to go away once out of 1st gear.

 

I'll have the shop road test it for their thoughts. I will do some searching but because time is of the essence thought I'd post here for any thoughts. Some quick things I found as possibilities:

- bad axle(s)

- input or output shaft bearings

- differential

- clutch chatter

- typical subaru "characteristic" that some cars have

 

The car has an act clutch and does have aftermarket mounts for engine, trans and rear diff which I understand can make any vibrations more noticeable. It just seems a bit excessive. Thanks

Good luck with the car .

Thanks will keep everyone posted on how it goes.

Thanks coco26. We’re going to be checking out car B this week.