olympic1

Just a couple/few weeks ago did the spark plugs on my 2012 GT. Taking the battery out on the drivers side is the way to go. I didn't have any issues getting either of them out. On the passenger side didn't even remove the airbox. Now it would be easier to do taking the airbox out but the clamp over the inlet had the screw facing downward and into the fender well with no easy way to get to it so rather than screw around with that I asked my teen son to contort his arms and he was able to get them out no problem. I'd say go for it. Once you get in there you'll get it figured out. I used my ratchet, a wobbler on #2 if I recall correctly, and a couple different length extensions (3", 12" and a longer one that was probably 18" or so) just to give me some options. Used the longer extensions with the wobbler just to clear everything and get some leverage. I'd done this previously on a 2014 2.5i we used to have and same basic procedure except on that one I did remove the airbox if I recall correctly. Gives lots of room if you do that.

Thanks for sharing the pic as that shows what people are talking about with the AVO and bolt trimming.

Did you swap out your passenger side radiator fan to make it fit? I've heard that fitment is doable but some mention some trimming or swapping of the fan.

I've got the winters on right now so can't get you a detailed pic of the front fitment. I bought the car with the 18x9's on it. Here's a pic with the summer setup that might give you a little bit of an idea how they fit.

Not sure what tire you are looking at but I have 18x9 +40 with 255/40/18 tires for my summer set and get a little rub on the driver's side rear. I'm on lowering springs and looking at having to roll or grind my driver rear quarter to address this. If you are lowered I'd expect you'll rub.

Been looking into this too. If you were going catless my understanding is the IQ J-pipe is one of the best. For catted I think you are looking at Invidia Catted as not sure if others are still making a catted downpipe for our the fifth gen LGT. Maybe some other members will chime in. If you read up on it you'll find that boost creep can be an issue with many catless downpipes so going catted apparently helps with this issue. The IQ catless design as I understand it doesn't seem to have the boost creep issues so prevalent with other catless designs. In general the recommendation seems to be if putting in an aftermarket j-pipe to consider an aftermarket BPV as well as consider installing an ECBS too.

PM sent.

If clubchico15 isn't interested in the Racer X TMIC please let me know as I might be interested. Thanks

If this is still being actively maintained, here's an update to the registry: OLD: 1005552 -- Titanium105 ----- GGM ---- 09/11 ---- 08/??/14 ---- Oregon ---- Stage 2 ets headers, TBE, boost controller, tune [294whp/346wtq] ---- 2nd owner NEW: 1005552 -- olympic1 ----- GGM ---- 09/11 ---- ??/??/?? ---- Washington ---- Stage 2 ets headers, TBE, boost controller, tune ---- 3rd owner Thanks!

Yeah I was just going to come back and post that maybe I could remove the bar and it would fit underneath it, and bolt the bar back on. But, if that won't work then cutting holes would be an option. Thanks!

The car my son recently purchased had the rear interior all stripped out so we (mostly him) are putting a plan together for reassembly. The car has an aftermarket rear strut bar. As a result the carpeted trunk base (the lightweight carpeted board) won't fit properly. It's too wide at the front now due to that strut brace narrowing up the front. One option would be to cut the board down at the front sides so it can slide under that strut bar. Another option might be to raise the trunk base level a couple of inches throughout but that might not work as the board might not have enough clearance to the back of the rear seats since they angle back. I'm just curious how others have dealt with it. Pic attached showing the strut bar in the trunk. Thanks in advance for any guidance.

Thanks. Will try to join the fb group.

Thanks. I don’t have a lot of specifics on the headlights. Here’s what I have about those: HID headlamps, black housings, 100mm halo, blue demon eyes.

As promised here are a couple of pics.

Okay I see that’s perfect. Thanks for the pics and measurements!

Thanks for confirmation that a full size 17" will fit. If you can't fit the foam tray with the full size wheel where are you able to fit a jack?

Yeah checked the local pull and save and spaldings but neither had them in stock. If a full size wheel and tire will fit that is definitely the way to go...just didn't think a full size would fit. And true, I can piece together a better kit on my own than the factory.

I was under the impression a full size wouldn't fit inflated in there. Am I incorrect?

Lol. I have Good Sam but I still like to have the spare. Had a flat in Montana once and was glad to have the spare as I was out of cell range.

It didn't come with a spare (or jack or the tray that sits on top of the spare) so I need to source those items. It looks like the spare they came with was T135/70R17 if my forum searches are correct. If someone doesn't mind confirming when they get a chance I would appreciate it. Thanks!

Wanted to provide an update. My son is now the owner of a 2012 Legacy GT. Some concern of the vibration on deceleration and shop not certain if trans or rear diff could be causing it. Those aftermarket mounts throughout really transfer noise. We took that into account and the seller worked with us on price. Passed the inspection otherwise including the compression check and drove it 6 hours home last night. Thanks everyone for your help. I think he’s going to get it cleaned up today (wildfire smoke permitting it might have to wait a day or two) and we’ll post some pics.

thanks coco26 and dgoodhue. The car has been regularly serviced at a Subaru dealer. Seller says he’s asked them about it but they couldn’t find anything. Taking it to a tuner/race shop this morning for inspection in hopes they will have some insight.

Looked at car B today. Going to have a shop do a PPI tomorrow. I noticed a couple things I'm going to have them check. The biggest thing is a vibration noise (hear more than feel) upon deceleration. It's pretty noticeable. It drives, shifts and brakes fine. It's just upon deceleration you have a pretty loud vibration noise. Sounds like it's coming more from the rear but hard to tell. I notice a vibration noise (again noise more than feel) upon acceleration from a stop. It's short lived and seems to go away once out of 1st gear. I'll have the shop road test it for their thoughts. I will do some searching but because time is of the essence thought I'd post here for any thoughts. Some quick things I found as possibilities: - bad axle(s) - input or output shaft bearings - differential - clutch chatter - typical subaru "characteristic" that some cars have The car has an act clutch and does have aftermarket mounts for engine, trans and rear diff which I understand can make any vibrations more noticeable. It just seems a bit excessive. Thanks

Thanks will keep everyone posted on how it goes.

Thanks coco26. We’re going to be checking out car B this week.