boneskid1

I will check on the plug this weekend. Teardown on the Red LGT begins tomorrow morning.

on my 09 if you remove the PCV and associated hoses you can just barely get to this hose without taking off the whole intake, but depending on your year the hoses for the PCV are routed just slightly different.

Its funny your bring that up. After lowering the car I went from the factory XT tire size, 225/55/17 to a 225/45/17. Cause the 225/55 was just too much sidewall for a lowered car. So my speedo was probably already off. I will take the brake module swap into consideration since I will already have one available to me...... provided the plug is the same between and 05 and an 09 Also can I change the title of this thread? at this point it might as well be my build thread lol. Once I get some pictures of the process going of course. In other news my shipment of all the parts I was planning to just throw on the Outback arrived. Obviously the parts car has changed that timeline a little bit.

Awesome! that will actually be better for highway driving then I hope. I am changing everything over to LGT, the rear upper control arms, transmission cradle, driveshaft, front lower arm brackets, LGT Brakes all of it. I have a KTA124 kit going on the rear too, with a Cusco 21mm rear swaybar. The car is going to be a whole different beast.

yeah I have a whole complete Legacy GT I will be using the parts off of. I read through the XT to GT parts thread a few times to understand what I have to swap.

That was the plan, to use all the lower suspension brackets etc and remove the subframe spacers ( I am on coilovers already, but for the sake of the suspension geometry). I might use the steering rack, but it looks like it might be leaking heavily.

I would check the hoses going into the side of the water pump housing. I think there is a total of two there, but that might depend on the year of your car. Mine had a leak from the clamp there and there was dried crustys from the dried coolant on the edge of the hose, hose clamp and the heatshield on the header.

I went ahead and ordered that when a couple other members mentioned it. Things have escalated quickly with this car........ My dad sent me a 2005 Legacy GT on Craigslist for $2k that basically needed a turbo put on. I took a look and the car is good besides a very leaky engine and a Chinese vf40. Ended up getting the whole car for $1500..... The plan is to swap all the Legacy GT suspension bits over to my Outback since it is already tuned and it has the Sport Sharp which I really like. Now my transmission had the dreaded grind from 3rd to 4th, but it was not horrible. This Legacy GT transmission is in waaaay better shape though. After fussing about with the chinese turbo and random parts from the garage we managed to get it running long enough to figure out if the engine was fucked or not (its not, just very leaky still) and to see how the transmission was going. It is much smoother than my 09. So the plan is to also swap that. I checked the Rallispec chart and the gear ratios are the same, but the final drive is not. The XT has a final drive of 4.444 and the GT has a final drive of 4.111. My thought is that I should be able to get away with just swapping both the transmission and rear diff and I should be ok. Will there be a noticeable driving difference between the 4.444 and the 4.111 and would I need a re-tune perhaps? Rallispec chart: https://rallispec.com/downloads/Transmission%20ID%20Chart_Public.pdf

I will clean it off and check again. I may just buy it as a piece of mind. Does it have to be welded or glued on? or is it just a slip fit thing? Thanks for all the help so far by the way. Definitely helps with the input. EDIT: ok had someone closer to the car clean it and look and it was gouged front to back. So I will get the snout kit. Is the clutch fork upgrade necessary? mine does not look cracked or anything so it should be fine I assume.

I tried to look up the numbers on the disc, but I cannot find anything on it. For some reason I cannot upload the picture of the pressure plate, but it is very worn where it gets pressed by the throwout bearing.

Ok! I finally got the Transmission out. Man that was a bitch. For some reason the bellhousing got caught on the bottom corner of the turbo. That was a pain. buuuuuut it is finally out. How can I tell if the clutch is still original? It definitely has the original flywheel bolts. There was a few numbers on the clutch disc and the pressure plate. I will try to get some pictures up to show the Transmission snout. To me it looks fine, but I am not sure. I also have a perplexing leak on the transmission. There is leaking fluid on the top middle half. Basically where the part that the center diff is housed and where the rest of the transmission meet.

I have the double adjustable COBB in my 5 speed and I wish I could adjust the throw shorter than it is now, but it rubs on the boot in the trans tunnel. it will fit the stock knob. As for shortness I have no idea. It was in my car when I bought it. For how it makes it shorter? basically the bottom section slides up and down and you clamp it. The taller you have it the "shorter" the linkage has to move to shift into gears. The shorter it is the closer to stock throw you get. Here is an article on how to install the COBB one. Step 7. explains the throw thing better. https://cobbtuning.atlassian.net/wiki/spaces/PRS/pages/61079680/224315+-+COBB+TUNING+5-SPEED+DOUBLE+ADJUSTABLE+SHORT+THROW+SHIFTER

I can hear my throwout bearing occasionally so that is not confidence inspiring, but I will get it apart either this weekend or next weekend and find out. I will probably post up some pictures if it is damaged for future reference for other members.

Is there a way to tell if I need the TSK snount repair kit? I will say there is alot of chatter from the clutch very stiff pedal etc. So I guess I need to get my car apart and figure out what is going on in the first place. Will there be wear marks or something?

ok I will go to the subaru dealer this week most likely. I need to get a rear main seal and the seal for that little plate that is back there and perhaps the wrist pin plug seals too cause eh "I am already in there" lol Max, I read your reviews of the 5 speed blast plates. Did you get the moore ones? I see these Kein ones that are a tad cheaper and look exactly like the older style Moore ones. The newer Moore ones are cast.... which I guess is good for weight, but I feel like the steel would hold up better. Any input?

Ok finally got around to calling Spec. I was sick and had some other shit going on. Super nice dudes. I will end up buying the Stage 2+ kit as it ends up being cheaper than the South Bend and include the Throwout bearing and slave piece. all for $629. I was looking at the stage 3 kit cause its only $575, but I was told it would suck to use for street driving. being that it is a puck style. I need to replace the flywheel bolts I assume. Any reason to get anything other than the factory Subaru ones?

I would be doing it myself. I guess I need to get it apart first and find out. I guess I should have mentioned it will slip in the upper end of the powerband in 3rd and 4th. So i am positive it is probably dying. I forgot that slipping does not always mean dying. I messed up there. So I figured going with a stronger clutch was a wise idea since I was replacing it. From the sounds of it on here the stock ones were not holding reliably with a stage 2 setup. My brothers clutch was stock as far as we know. It was stiffer than my VW at the time but not as stiff as this 09. And this OBXT had a master cylinder brace and cobb short throw shifter in it already so I think the previous owner might have had a tune on it at some point. All I really know was it was traded in and the oil analysis I sent in was good.

I bought the car with 132k so I have no idea the real mileage on the clutch. I do know that it is a much heavier feel than my brothers 5mt outback so it might not even be a stock clutch in the car right now. I just want to go with something that is going to handle the power/torque for a while. I figured rather than buy another stock one and run that chance of needing to put another one in the car in a year I could spend a little more and be safe for a little longer. Plus I like to zoom on highway on ramps. I do not need it slipping on me again. Also so far I have not beat on the stock one. Just a few 3rd gear pulls at the tuners request and then one solid 1st-4th pull onto the highway that led to the slipping.

I live near Kansas City on the Kansas side.

Yes I saw your PM I will give them a call thank you! I did read they recommend resurfacing the flywheel. trying to research a local shop that can do that for me without having to take the whole car.

With the Spec does it include any of the extras needed? Throwout bearing, alignment tool etc like the southbend kit does?

I have a 2009 OBXT that I recently had tuned for what should basically be stage 2. (downpipe, TGV deletes, Secondary air delete, Turbo inlet, ECBS) Sadly my clutch is not happy about these changes. It was holding fairly well up until the last revision from the tuner. Now it slips in 5th gear WOT on the highway. From my research it seems that since my car is an 09 I should already have a single mass flywheel. Which is a good thing, but does that mean I can get get any standard clutch for it? I was looking at the South Bend FJK1001-HD-O https://www.southbendclutch.com/clutches/FJK1001-HD-O-11926/ Provided I can find somewhere to buy that clutch is that a good option? or is there something better price to performance wise? I would like the clutch to not be super hard. So I figured the stock style disc was the best plan.

It sounds like you need a tune. I do not know how much more help you will get without some logs. Do you have an accessport or a Tactrix cable?

you can also make your own adapter harness for the boost controller of your choice. I bought a second hand Tactrix unit and it was missing the pig tail adapter. I used this pigtail https://www.iwireservices.com/product-page/boost-controller-receptacle and a pigtail like this https://www.iwireservices.com/product-page/ev1-injector-plug leftover from my VW days.

[attach]287053[/attach]